New to me Boat!

Question time?

Tonight I thought I would drill some exploratory holes in the stringers in the spots that sounded rotten. I drilled 4 holes per side from the back of the boat to the helm and this is what I found in all of them. The fibreglass has become delaminated and the wood is as solid as the day it went in.

What should I do?

Pull the fibreglass off and reglass? Or leave it as is?

It’s not delaiminated everywhere.


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Question time?

Tonight I thought I would drill some exploratory holes in the stringers in the spots that sounded rotten. I drilled 4 holes per side from the back of the boat to the helm and this is what I found in all of them. The fibreglass has become delaminated and the wood is as solid as the day it went in.

What should I do?

Pull the fibreglass off and reglass? Or leave it as is?

It’s not delaiminated everywhere.


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What about glassing right over it?
 
Just epoxy the holes up and go.
Ive seen many times where the glass didn't stick well to the wood.
 
When I redid my 69(ish) Double Eagle the stringers looking punky but when I drilled them they were solid and the glass had not laminated properly to the wood. I ran an additional mat of glass over the top of everything and called it good. It was crazy how thick they applied glass in those days!
 
Being that your stringers are healthy you should take a c lose look at where they meet the plywood in your transom as they originally would have bumped right against that plywood adding structural support. If you have transom rot it may have migrated to the stringers at that point.
 
I think if there is any rot it will begin where the stringers meet the transom. I have seen stringers that run the full length and butt right into the transom and others that run almost all the way and then just a piece scabbed in where it meets the transom. Depending how you do the transom you will either have to notch the transom wood to get it in over the stringers or notch the stringers to get it in. It has to go in top first to get it in under the top cap. I did the transom first and butted the stringers in to it. I glassed the transom all in first with 2 coats 1708 bialxe and 4 coats where it met the hull. I then installed the stringers and reinforced all the spots the pod is going to mount to.
 
Thanks guys.

I cut some bigger holes in the glass tonight right tight to the transom and the stingers appear fine there as well. Once I get this yammy off the back I will open the floor up on the back 18” to get a better look as well as to remove the rotten transom.
 
I raised my floor 3 inches with a slight slope to the outsides which funnels any water to the back corners where my ping pong ball scuppers are. The gunnels are still way higher than most boats as per my guests.


Any chance you have a picture of where your scuppers sit? I just did a quick measurement and I would have to raise my floor about 7” to get to the existing water line on the bottom paint.
 
Any chance you have a picture of where your scuppers sit? I just did a quick measurement and I would have to raise my floor about 7” to get to the existing water line on the bottom paint.
Sorry i won't have a picture available for a week once i'm home. I wonder if your waterline was from before it got podded? These are all i have right now
 

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I was in my 26' today and looking at the transition from the inside of the boat to the deck. Mine isn't a self bailing boat but if you raised the deck any more than a few inches to make it self bailing I think it would make getting inside under the hardtop considerably tougher. Im sure you have thought about this but I just wanted to throw that out there because it sounds like you are thinking of raising your deck pretty high. Im not sure what the answer would be (maybe a step to help the transition out from inside the boat) but its something to consider if you are raising the deck way up.
 
Alternative to raising the deck to make it self bailing is having a sealed sump area(probably in the center) with a bilge pump.I know other Hourston owners that have 2 sumps (Port & Stbd.) both with bilge pumps and float switches and a grill over top. Many self bailing boats sit too low to effectively drain,including my 206 DE.,so I end up with a plug in the scuppers when in use and remove them if moored.Very common with a boat under 28 ft.that raising the deck height isn't practical.Not uncommon that the glass didn't stick to the wood stringers also,the wood was either wet when glassed up or they didn't seal the stringers with resin before doing their layup.If your sure the wood is solid there's not too much point in removing them,I would make sure there's lots of glass on top if it wasn't originally.
 
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A buddy of mine Jim sold that boat last fall. He's 7' tall and can do what he wants!! I'm curious due to wanting to insure the boat once completed.
He sold that boat for 56k, it was gone before i heard it was for sale!!
 
Production has slowed due to my regular day job... but I did manage to strip all the electrical and swim grid off the transom as well as the port side shelving unit this week. I have some interest in the F200 and should know by Sunday night if it’s serious. I contacted parksville boat house about finding a second F200 but the V6 with shift cables is no longer available. The good news is if the F200 doesn’t sell they will take it on consignment and it will be off the boat.

Fishing in the serauxemen derby this weekend and camping on Newcastle island tomorrow night! Hopefully the weather will cooperate...

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I have a 26' Island Runner and it has a 320hp Volvo...they built a few of the outboard versions and I believe they were a pair of 150's...the hull could stand a pair of 200 hp ob's in the correct pod configuration but it could chine walk up top, I bet. The IR we have is self bailing on the deck and clears water off well. I would love to convert over the OB's the single sterndrive freaks me out in the Straits but I think that would be a $50K or more discussion...getting rid of the dog house would be awesome.
 
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