Pod question 22' 300 hp

MongooseX

Member
Hey everyone. Im in the process of replacing the transom of my 22' sangster.... water got to it! Had a 302 w alpha 1 that i got rid of and now i have a df300 suzuki waiting to going on it.
I have yet to build the pod, but im thinking up designs...

Im thinking of having a pod that spans the full beam of the boat and roughly 20 to 30" long. Or building a smaller pod that doesnt run the full width more so of a" box" to bolt the motor on.

That being said im not a marine engineer nor have i built a pod for any boat but me doing the work keeps the costs down.
 
I was just thinking going wide for load distribution? And extending hull lines into the pod.... but yes good to ponder on the smaller pod. What do you mean by stepped?
Smaller pod would allow use of the trim tabs that i have also.
 
I was just thinking going wide for load distribution? And extending hull lines into the pod.... but yes good to ponder on the smaller pod. What do you mean by stepped?
Smaller pod would allow use of the trim tabs that i have also.
so many variables...... theres a guy in sooke who really knows his ****... he is extremely reasonable on price much cheaper then any shop out there.... few guys on here have used him including me.... just picked up one yesterday from him, pm me if you want his #.
 
so many variables...... theres a guy in sooke who really knows his ****... he is extremely reasonable on price much cheaper then any shop out there.... few guys on here have used him including me.... just picked up one yesterday from him, pm me if you want his #.

X2
 
Talk to Devon (250)8844524 He is out of Sooke and he knows his stuff. He built a gorgeous full width hull extension pod and radar arch for us. We couldn't be happier. His design and his workmanship is top notch and the most importantly he actually listens to you when you tell him what you want. He will make it work for your needs not his. This is huge, there's lots of guys out there who think they have it all figured out but we are all unique and we all want our boats set up to suit our needs not someone else's.

In my opinion you definitely want a hull extension and not a step up. You also want something close to 3' deep so that you can fully tilt your motor. Devon will go through all these things with you.

I live in Ladysmith and I'm always willing to show the boat off to a fellow fisherman if your trying to get ideas. You can check out our photos in our thread on the Double Eagle build.

Is your Sangster the Dolphin? I really want to do a build on a 23' Chinook next. Great boats and the small galley plus a stand up head would be real nice for extended fishing trips. Not sure if we have another build in us in the near future though. It's a lot of work.
 
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I was just thinking going wide for load distribution? And extending hull lines into the pod.... but yes good to ponder on the smaller pod. What do you mean by stepped?
Smaller pod would allow use of the trim tabs that i have also.
By "stepped" people mean mounting the pod a bit high, rather than extending the hull lines straight from the keel. I notice the full depth pod is much more popular in this part of the world.

You can also mount pods "stepped", say 2.5-4" up from the keel. The upside is that your prop runs in cleaner water which is usually more efficient; the downside is that you don't get the wave bridging effect of the greater length at the waterline.

If your pod is full width and full depth you've lengthened the whole hull and while some boats can handle the change, personally I'd be spending a lot of time thinking about whether I was overloading, say, the hull-stringer attachment point.

If it was a really beamy, boxy hull it might take it. If it's narrower you might find that the hull extension acts like permanent trim tabs. I'd probably take some measurements, figure out the displacement of any pod you're considering, and compare it to the combined weight of the OB and pod. You don't want to float tail high.

If you are looking seriously at building the pod yourself, I'd think about cutting back the stringers a fair way and then scarfing in new ones that extend through the hull and form the sides of the pod.



I understand the planning phase...I constantly go back and forth on what to do with my DE206. My most practical idea by far is to get the above-mentioned Sookeite to build me a pod.
 
Well sounds like i should give that guy on sooke a call if that is the guy everyone is talking about.
savary-island-july-18-2009-websize.jpg

This is the same boat.. internet pic...mines blue... thought i had pictures of it.. lots of.work re transoming it
 
I should clarify. When I said I have a full width, full float pod. The full float portion of the pod is about 30" wide. The integrated swim grid the full width of the boat. I'd like to try a full width pod but most guys seem to be of the belief that it would put too much flotation in the rear and may negatively affect handling.
 
Is that boat designed for 300hp? I am thinking about upping my 22 ft to a 300 hp but the boats coast guard plate says 250 hp max, however....... these new motors are so much lighter. Better to have more power than less.
 
Well i am moving the fuel tank back about 2 feet.. where the 302 use to sit. Aswell adding 650lbs hanging 30" off the transom kinda makes me think that the boat will want to be a bit heavy in the back. So any extra floation back there will be a benefit is my thinking.
But i also want a good handling boat when up on a plane.

Well im not sure the hp rating for this boat but its getting the 300 !
 
Well i am moving the fuel tank back about 2 feet.. where the 302 use to sit. Aswell adding 650lbs hanging 30" off the transom kinda makes me think that the boat will want to be a bit heavy in the back. So any extra floation back there will be a benefit is my thinking.
But i also want a good handling boat when up on a plane.

Well im not sure the hp rating for this boat but its getting the 300 !
I think you would want to keep the fuel tank amidships for better balance
 
Well i am moving the fuel tank back about 2 feet.. where the 302 use to sit. Aswell adding 650lbs hanging 30" off the transom kinda makes me think that the boat will want to be a bit heavy in the back. So any extra floation back there will be a benefit is my thinking.
But i also want a good handling boat when up on a plane.

Well im not sure the hp rating for this boat but its getting the 300 !
you should talk to rich..... I definitely would not be moving anything until you talk to him and come up with a plan....... lots of variables involved .... like cantilever etc
 
I would put the boat in the water and load it up with barrels of water of the weight of a full tank of fuel and figure out how much weight sitting at the transom would simulate your motors weight 30 inches farther aft. Then move the barrels simulating fuel weight around until the boat sits level. That is where the tank should go.
 
I moved my tank back. My 40 gallon tank will weigh about 250 lbs full and sit where that 800 Lb lump used to sit, then you have 100 lbs of alpha that used to be hanging off the back. The fuel tank weight changes however no matter what the majority of the weight will go towards the back and with my tank full averages 17 lbs per square foot in relation to bottom space averaged from 4" from the transom to 4' 4" from the transom. My pod has I'm guessing 250 to 300 lbs of flotation and a 500 Lb engine hanging 28" off the back. I see all the conversions and people worrying about weight balance however see most mount their dual batterys at the transom. Group 27 batterys come in at 120 lbs per square foot (that would be two of them). My sump pumps are going to be pretty much in the same position as they were in the stern drive situation however in front of the fuel tank. So my batterys are going to be mounted in front of the sump pumps and the step down into the cockpit will be in the same location as original, the front of the batterys will be 8' from the transom. I can't float mine yet as the water is still in solid form however I'm hoping for the best.
Yours should rock with 300 hp! As long as the weight doesn't suck the back end down and you make the transom strong and flexible no worries!
 
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so many variables...... theres a guy in sooke who really knows his ****... he is extremely reasonable on price much cheaper then any shop out there.... few guys on here have used him including me.... just picked up one yesterday from him, pm me if you want his #.
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I've had 5 pods built and Rich's pod has been far and away the best one. I've only had one pod that followed the hull and I hated it, too much flotation so it sat stern high. In my hourston my fuel tank was extended about 18" further forward to counter the 300 verado sitting 30" back of the transom and it sits and rides perfect
 
IMG_0909.JPG IMG_0930.JPG IMG_20180403_144435.jpg Mine is an oddball, see if it works. Small step however it has the recommended engine raising parameters of 1" for every foot back incorporated into the pod. It's also a trapezoid shape, hope it works.
 
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I've had 5 pods built and Rich's pod has been far and away the best one. I've only had one pod that followed the hull and I hated it, too much flotation so it sat stern high. In my hourston my fuel tank was extended about 18" further forward to counter the 300 verado sitting 30" back of the transom and it sits and rides perfect

That's my point, your gas tank full probably moves 70 lbs 18" forward with a full tank and only moves the rest of the fuel weight 18" forward at half tank. Not exactly consistent or substantial.
And the extra cannon balls are stored at the back etc?
I'm all for welded aluminum pods, what I did in my opinion is stupid.
 
Mine is an oddball, see if it works. Small step however it has the recommended engine raising parameters of 1" for every foot back incorporated into the pod. It's also a trapezoid shape, hope it works.

How is it attached to the transom?

Do you figure there's enough of a break at the back of the hull to get it to shed water away from the pod? That's the one thing I'd be wondering about, shape-wise. I've seen some pods that shape that worked well, I'm just not sure if I've seen one that was as close to the edge of the planing surface as that. But I'm not an expert and I haven't really looked; it might be a common design.
 
I was going from my airboat days, what I have is close to no step however a little step with changes in degrees in planing surfaces can be a help. My edges are not really sharp and might hurt me. Could be a gong show. Played with hulls that hopped and hulls that ploughed. I'm hoping the pod only comes into play at rest and in waves and it's shaped like a waterski so hoping it reacts softly. It's tapered skinny to the back like a waterski, the engine foil is 3" above the hull line and the pod bottom is at the same point. I'm hoping it pretty clean water it's all working in. If I'm a failure part it out..
 
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