Kodiak Brake Calipers

Arg. My Kodiak disk brakes are starting to drag and over-heat on one side again even though I've washed them after every launch. It been less than two years since I swapped out the drums for disks. Unfortunately the shop put on the dacromet calipers, not stainless. Sounds like that was a mistake. :mad: Anyway I was looking at costs on eTrailer and though it strange that it is cheaper to buy the entire kit (darcomet and stainless combo) rather than upgrading with two stainless calipers?

Kit K2HR35DS : https://www.etrailer.com/p-K2HR35DS.html = $392 US

Single SS caliper KDBC225S : https://www.etrailer.com/p-KDBC225S.html x 2 = $411 US


Check out www.easternmarine.com
Full 10" Kodiak brake kit with 2 SS calipers is $275 US
Single SS Calipers are $173 US ea
Much better to buy the full kit rather than just the calipers.
 
Slip on rotors and separate hubs, or rotors with an integrated hubs? Which is better? Stainless or galvanized hub?
 
Slip on rotors work great, especially if you already have the hubs.
Galvanized hubs are fine, they never wear out.
 
I prefer the slip on rotors as well. If you ruin a rotor, you don't have to replace the whole hub... I usually carry a spare rotor and hub, as well as spindle, bearings, seals, grease, etc with me. And I've had to use them more than once in the past.Always carry a temp gun with me as well and periodically check the temps of the wheel bearings and that area.
I use kodiak 225 disc brakes and only seem to get about a season and a half, maybe 2 max, generally before I have to replace the pads. (on a triple axle trailer with brakes on each axle) The pads are the same as what are used on the pontiac sunfire so they are designed to stop a small car and not alot of disc pad surface area to rely on therefore they wear out fairly quickly. If I were going to replace the system I would go up to their larger braking model.
I always try to rinse the brakes after pulling the boat out of the water... Haven't had a seized caliper yet but have had bad seals that seem to tear easily. I ussually coat the slider pins with neverseize as well. I recently ordered a bunch of spare seals and will be rebuilding some spare calipers this winter. Kodiak had a bad run of calipers about 2 years ago that had a weak casting. It was quite noticeable where they failed. They were good about replacing with the better more robust casting when questioned on it. They acknowledged the castings were thin in the area that broke... about half the thickness of the ones I was replacing with the same model number. Not sure how many people ended up with them but I had broken 2 on separate trips with less than 20 km's on them. a real pain in the @ss...
 
Okay thanks. I think I will upgrade the entire braking system to disc brakes and use stainless calipers and galvanized hubs and rotors.
 
Should work well for you Red Monster.. My hubs aren't galvanized and haven't been a problem. But for the very little extra expense I have started changing them to galvanized when replaced. Have only needed to replace one (hub) so far... knock on wood..
 
I think disc brakes will be superior in almost every way. And no more trying to adjust rusted-tight drum brakes through a stupid little inaccessible hole in the backing plate. Boat trailers are such a pain in butt.
 
Boat trailers are a pain. Just rebuilt mine again. Question for some of the knowledge here, just installed titian 225 tandem 12 inch disk surge system. How much resistance shoukd there be when the brakes are not applied. Instructions say they where in after 100 miles or so. Mine seem to have a fair bit of resistance. Also when bleed and brakes applied I could still rotate the tire if I really tried should they be locked solid and impossible to move?
 
The easiest way to tell if the brakes are bled properly is to pull the wire harness so the back up solenoid is disabled. You shouldn't be able to back up as the brakes will lock up. If you can back up they aren't working.
 
Kodiak disc brakes installed with rubber brake lines. Rebuilt my old, welded actuator as well. Everything seems to work fine. I notice the disc brakes don't seem to lag as much as the drums.
So will I need to re-lube the pins or should I leave it? Don't feel like having a seized caliper. I used the SS calipers.
 
This chain of posts has been educational for me as I have the Kodiak 225 calilers in dacromet with 12 inch disks on a tandem trailer weighing almost 7,000 lbs gross.
I live in Victoria and just returned from Port McNeil. One brake was hot all the way home so took it apart today to find the pads fried and the dust cover on the Piston damaged .
Has anyone had success with the caliper rebuild kit, or do I need to replace the whole caliper?
Where is the best place to get parts?

Thanks
 
This chain of posts has been educational for me as I have the Kodiak 225 calilers in dacromet with 12 inch disks on a tandem trailer weighing almost 7,000 lbs gross.
I live in Victoria and just returned from Port McNeil. One brake was hot all the way home so took it apart today to find the pads fried and the dust cover on the Piston damaged .
Has anyone had success with the caliper rebuild kit, or do I need to replace the whole caliper?
Where is the best place to get parts?

Thanks
I got mine finally redone at Thomcat Trailers on Station Rd in Langford. They carry parts and if not can easily order them for you.
 
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