Surge brake adjustments?

[oldsenilegoat]

I have a trailer with surge brakes. They rarely engage. It isn't a problem with the surge piece (or "head") that attaches to the front of the trailer tongue. I bought a new one and installed it at the beginning of this season. There is a bolt that I think is for adjusting the surge system at the front of the "head" piece. In behind it towards the back of the system is the spring that engages the surge.

My question.....and it may show how inept I am at these things....if I want to adjust it to be more sensitive: i.e.: come on with a lighter touch of my truck brakes, am I adjusting the nut/bolt clockwise or counterclockwise. Clockwise tightens it in so the spring is tightened down, counter clockwise loosens off the tension on the spring.

Thanks, with apologies for asking what to many of you is probably a pretty simple thing.

 

[sudsy]

When you installed the new actuator did you bleed the brake lines of Air? If not you'll have a lot of play in your tongue. If it's bled correct try you should have a decent amount of resistance.

 

[Fisherman Rob]

How do you know they are not engaging? Surge brakes don't really pull on the hitch because once the brakes begin to engage, they lower the compressing force on the actuator, and the brakes release a bit. So you don't feel them as you might with an electric actuator. Are they drums or disks? Drums can be adjusted at each wheel. There's a star nut inside the drum that you can adjust (assuming it hasn't rusted up).

 

[gungadin]

You can get a general idea if your surge brakes are working, by driving to a gravel road with an incline. Back up the incline ( make sure you have disengaged your trailer reverse solenoid or removed the lock out pin). Depending on the incline, the brakes should apply to a noticeable degree.

 

[KV1]

Put it up on jacks. Put a herc strap from actuator tongue to trailer compressing it spin wheels and brakes should engage. Adjust star in each brake IAW manufacturers instructions. Done

 

[rowswell]

On my ezloader, you can test the actuator by slipping a long blade screwdriver into the opening on the bottom & manually operate the brakes. If you have the trailer wheels off the ground, then its easy to check if the wheels are getting any braking force. If the actuator strokes OK with the screwdriver, then the issue is likely with the brake adjustment & mine (drums) have been a pain ever since new as, even with flushing, the wheel cylinders get salt damaged to the point I just buy a new brake set every couple of years . I've found complete replacement is as easy as component replacement & the entire unit costs only a few $$'s more than a new wheel cylinder. (I don't bother with galvanised, as the failure points tend to be in parts not galvanised anyway), so can get the brake units at any place that stocks trailer parts.

 

[Oceanmaster]

Put it up on jacks. Put a herc strap from actuator tongue to trailer compressing it spin wheels and brakes should engage. Adjust star in each brake IAW manufacturers instructions. Done

Herc strap....... IAW....=...... Engineer?...pilot?

 

[oldsenilegoat]

Thanks for the ideas folks. Some responses to the questions posed.

Brakes are drums. I believe they are adjusted properly.... I was able to check them with a friend when I first put on the new actuator (maybe need to go back and check again, it has been a year)....and not rusted - I am rarely in salt.

I did bleed the brakes (using the screwdriver method referred to above) when I installed the new actuator and the tank for the brake fluid is still clean and full.

I will try the backing up on the slope method....easy in my neighbourhood as I live on a hill....but that is also why I worry about the trailer brakes.

The issue is that the actuator only seems to engage with a lot of pressure, i.e.: a quick stop needed for a suddenly changing traffic light or braking going down a steep hill, but only if I do so suddenly, even on a hill. A smooth stop of any sort does not engage the actuator. And when the brakes do finally come on it is full on.

Which brought me to my question about the adjustment knob/bolt at the front of the spring on the actuator and which way I turn it to get the brakes to engage with less violent pressure. (I will try to post a photo of the knob so it is easier to see the piece I am referring to.)

Thanks again. (Love this forum and all the folks willing to help out.)

 

[Fisherman Rob]

the actuator only seems to engage with a lot of pressure

But how have you determined this? Maybe it is engaging, but the braking is too subtle to notice?

 

[oldsenilegoat]

Perhaps, but I come down a steep hill to where I park the boat and I never feel them engage at all on the way down....unless I have to hit my brakes hard. That is why I am thinking adjusting the actuator might assist.