calling all Campion 622 Sedan owners

[Olde School]

Hello, everyone.

We have recently purchased our dream boat, a 2006 622 West Coast edition.

I have 4 years of experience with a 1994 version of this hull, although it had an inboard.

It would be great to talk with other owners about mods, problems, etc.
Campion doesn't have an owners group and I am not about to start one, but a thread here might be the ticket!

Hope SFBC moderators are okay with this.

Thanks.

 

[Olde School]

I will start with my main concern:
Cruising comfortably at 4200rpm doing 21knots, the motor trimmed all the way in, it will porpoise unless I use approximately 50% trim tab.
If I wick it up to significantly higher speeds the porpoising won't happen and I can lift tabs all the way up and use a fair amount of motor trim.
This is with moderate loads, well spread along the length of the cabin, and the pod is empty of water.
Any ideas?

 

[GLG]

try a 4 blade prop

 

[SpringVelocity]

Hello, everyone.

We have recently purchased our dream boat, a 2006 622 West Coast edition.

I have 4 years of experience with a 1994 version of this hull, although it had an inboard.

It would be great to talk with other owners about mods, problems, etc.
Campion doesn't have an owners group and I am not about to start one, but a thread here might be the ticket!

Hope SFBC moderators are okay with this.

Thanks.

Why not put a hydrofoil on that will help. Truthfully it will cure it. Its probably your pod flotation screwing things up.

My buddy has the Victoria model I think its year before this one. That boat is very good in sloppy weather. He still has inboard though.. Thanks for that pic me and my buddy wants radar/ rod rocks for our boats and I have to send some drawings out to fabricator in next few weeks to get them made before fall starts.. He was talking about a design but I like that one it suits the boat...

 

[TheTugistheDrug]

Check that your motor is not mounted too low. I have the walkaround version of this boat and put the hydrofoil on and it helped, but in some cases I still had to bury the tabs to stabilize the ride.

It wasn't until I had a friend ask about the motor height in relation to the cavitation plate, the bottom of the hull and angle of the pod. After some thought and lining up a straight edge under the hull, I decided to raise my motor.

WOW! What an amazing difference! I raised it two holes (about 2 inches) and it no longer porpoises. My time to plane and top speed have both improved, and the biggest improvement has been the ability to reverse effectively.
Prior to the lift, whenever I tried to reverse, I had to pretty much full throttle it to move or stop the boat. Now it takes very little to come to a stop. In fact, the first time I reversed, I instinctively gave it a lot of throttle and I drove water in through the scuppers as the boat move quickly in reverse.

Give it a go. It's an easy fix. Only cost is time and a new tube of sealant.

 

[Olde School]

Thanks for the replies!
GLG how does a prop change the ride of the hull?
SV I am very reluctant to try a hydrofoil since when I see them in use they appear to be merely masking the problem of too little power, which isn't my problem - boat holeshots nicely and tops out at 73kmh.
TTITD I will check that out.

 

[Fishalot]

Check that your motor is not mounted too low. I have the walkaround version of this boat and put the hydrofoil on and it helped, but in some cases I still had to bury the tabs to stabilize the ride.

It wasn't until I had a friend ask about the motor height in relation to the cavitation plate, the bottom of the hull and angle of the pod. After some thought and lining up a straight edge under the hull, I decided to raise my motor.

WOW! What an amazing difference! I raised it two holes (about 2 inches) and it no longer porpoises. My time to plane and top speed have both improved, and the biggest improvement has been the ability to reverse effectively.
Prior to the lift, whenever I tried to reverse, I had to pretty much full throttle it to move or stop the boat. Now it takes very little to come to a stop. In fact, the first time I reversed, I instinctively gave it a lot of throttle and I drove water in through the scuppers as the boat move quickly in reverse.

Give it a go. It's an easy fix. Only cost is time and a new tube of sealant.

This is a very good thing to check out , your trim will be much more effective with the motor at the right height.,

 

[Red Monster]

73kmh? What's a kmh? Must be a fast boat.

 

[Olde School]

aka 20m/s, 39kts, 45mph
;-)

 

[Fish Whisperer]

aka 20m/s, 39kts, 45mph
;-)

I wouldn't touch the metric system with a 3.048 M pole

 

[willydw]

Had a friend with a 642. He put in wedges and the problem went away.

 

[Old Fisher]

I will start with my main concern:
Cruising comfortably at 4200rpm doing 21knots, the motor trimmed all the way in, it will porpoise unless I use approximately 50% trim tab.
If I wick it up to significantly higher speeds the porpoising won't happen and I can lift tabs all the way up and use a fair amount of motor trim.
This is with moderate loads, well spread along the length of the cabin, and the pod is empty of water.
Any ideas?

Olde School

I have a boat that is virtually identical to yours. 2007 with same power. I had the inboard version for 15 yrs and the 2007 for the past 7 yrs. I've always felt that these boats were quite heavy for their length and planing surface area (my boat is a pig with even 4 people on board but runs great with 2).
A few years ago I added to the length of the Bennett trim tabs and added 2 fixed plates between the Bennetts and the keel. These added plates are neutral to the hull. I think this additional planing surface has helped the boat get up quicker and plane at slightly less cruising speed. I also run a 4 blade prop to help with hole shot and cruising. I usually cruise at 4000 and get between 25-28 mph depending on load. These boats would also benefit by moving weight forward as much as possible. I have a friend who even put 300 pounds of ballast in the bow but I hate the thought of adding weight to a boat so I just try to move my heavy items to the front and I've thought about moving the batteries forward
Interesting comments about motor height. I would like to know what the height should be for this boat with a pod.?

 

[Olde School]

Thanks, Old Fisher. Perhaps we could meet and compare notes!

During a conversation with Campion employee mid-summer I was asked if my pod or stringers were holding water - nope. Same person suggested wedging the motor (as did my dad).
A highly knowledgeable buddy suggested redistributing weight, which I have done to be best of my ability, without adding ballast which is anathema to me.
During a second conversation with a different Campion employee I was told that this was a surprising issue since these boats are known to be forward heavy due to the mass of the cabin. Hmmmm....

I am going to look at the mount height as suggested, there could be something to that.

Moving the batteries forward presents 2 potential problems:
1) potential acid spill - but there are ways to alleviate that threat
2) the gauge of wire required would get really pricey! Impedance increases with distance.

 

[Old Fisher]

I'm sure the Campion guy is incorrect when he says these boats are nose heavy. It's the opposite and that's why they porpoise so easily and need tabs to control it. I've experimented by having passengers climb into the bow while cruising and noticed how much better the boat works with weight forward.
I find that I get the best ride attitude and cruising speed by trimming the engine moderately and then using trim tabs to control ride attitude. If I keep the engine trimmed in so that I can lift the tabs, my cruise speed and efficiency suffer. In calm or rippled water I can usually get the tabs all the way up except the port side one because the weight of passengers and kicker is heavy on that side
If you have trouble getting on plane when heavily loaded I would suggest a 4 blade prop. I like mine so much that I'm going to sell the SS 3 blade that came with the engine.

 

[Old Fisher]

I'm sure the Campion guy is incorrect when he says these boats are nose heavy. It's the opposite and that's why they porpoise so easily and need tabs to control it. I've experimented by having passengers climb into the bow while cruising and noticed how much better the boat works with weight forward.
I find that I get the best ride attitude and cruising speed by trimming the engine moderately and then using trim tabs to control ride attitude. If I keep the engine trimmed in so that I can lift the tabs, my cruise speed and efficiency suffer. In calm or rippled water I can usually get the tabs all the way up except the port side one because the weight of passengers and kicker is heavy on that side
If you have trouble getting on plane when heavily loaded I would suggest a 4 blade prop. I like mine so much that I'm going to sell the SS 3 blade that came with the engine.

 

[no butts]

what pitch is the prop,and how much?

 

[Old Fisher]

The stainless 3 blade prop is 15 1/4 x 17. It has no nicks or damage and I would probably take 350 for it

 

[Big Zeke]

I have what I think is essentially the same hull (215 Fishing Machine). It started life with a 3.0 but now sports a much heavier 4.3. While the boat has had trim tabs since I bought it, I have never noticed a bias to porposing and both batteries are in the back and the fuel tank is in the original position. While I can see the explanation about the cabin weight it can't offset the extra pounds of the 4.3. I think the tabs are what is saving me but I can't imagine a boat this size without them (just to help plane level with passengers that insist on moving while underway). At about 50% tabs I can keep plane and drop the RPMs but 1-200.

I have considered a pod and O/B but the cost is a killer...I assume 5K plus whatever the O/B costs (probably total 15-20k) and in the end I'd gain a bit more space in the back and a bit less vibration. I know folks are doing it and I might consider if the 4.3 dies. Tough to say what this hull might be worth sans power, I know the bare hulls are popular but I assume only when really cheap.

 

[Olde School]

I have what I think is essentially the same hull (215 Fishing Machine). It started life with a 3.0 but now sports a much heavier 4.3. While the boat has had trim tabs since I bought it, I have never noticed a bias to porposing and both batteries are in the back and the fuel tank is in the original position. While I can see the explanation about the cabin weight it can't offset the extra pounds of the 4.3. I think the tabs are what is saving me but I can't imagine a boat this size without them (just to help plane level with passengers that insist on moving while underway). At about 50% tabs I can keep plane and drop the RPMs but 1-200.

I have considered a pod and O/B but the cost is a killer...I assume 5K plus whatever the O/B costs (probably total 15-20k) and in the end I'd gain a bit more space in the back and a bit less vibration. I know folks are doing it and I might consider if the 4.3 dies. Tough to say what this hull might be worth sans power, I know the bare hulls are popular but I assume only when really cheap.

We looked into podding the 1994 215 but, as you say, it was going to be $20K(ish) all in. So, we sold the 94 and bought a factory podded 06 for about the same difference and benefited from a newer trailer as well as all of the newer fittings throughout. Food for thought.

 

[SpringVelocity]

I'm sure the Campion guy is incorrect when he says these boats are nose heavy. It's the opposite and that's why they porpoise so easily and need tabs to control it. I've experimented by having passengers climb into the bow while cruising and noticed how much better the boat works with weight forward.
I find that I get the best ride attitude and cruising speed by trimming the engine moderately and then using trim tabs to control ride attitude. If I keep the engine trimmed in so that I can lift the tabs, my cruise speed and efficiency suffer. In calm or rippled water I can usually get the tabs all the way up except the port side one because the weight of passengers and kicker is heavy on that side
If you have trouble getting on plane when heavily loaded I would suggest a 4 blade prop. I like mine so much that I'm going to sell the SS 3 blade that came with the engine.

If you add a hydrofoil to your leg your problem will go away. It will stop the purpoising and make it so you can get on plane at lower rpm...I would try it...