When I had my trailer inspected (imported from the US) it only had brakes on one axle and it passed the CT inspection. I agree with "trophy fisher" the CT inspection pertains to the federal RIV import inspection only. Even though my trailer passed that inspection I upgraded the brakes to both axles.
Boat weight for towing question
- Thread starter Adler
- Start date
My Bayliner and trailer weigh 7000lbs not loaded. I had to put electric brakes on both axels as well I bought an older F250 just to haul the boat. My fd explorer was rated for 7000lbs but I didn't feel safe. Felt like the front end was coming off the ground. I would find the boat you want first and then get a truck that will satisfy hauling the boat.
markowwes
Member
Not to put down any boat salesmen out there but in my purchasing experience they are not trained on the importance of trailer capacity and provincial regulations (RV salesmen included) I purchased a 20 foot Sea Ray back in 89 the salesman wanted to put a 5000lb boat on a single axle trailer, had to convince him tandem was the only way he was going to sell me anything. Purchased a 25’ Hydra Sports in 07, the salesman said a tandem would be good enough, 10,000lb boat on a tandem trailer wouldn’t cut it either. Coming from a trucking background I feel the best is to have more than enough wheels under the load than required. Not common sense to run a trailer at full capacity all the time, things wear out real fast that way, Also another point is to run “level” not too much bothers me as much as seeing a trailer with the nose down so much that the rear axle is just about off the ground or the other way around. You gain way more control if everything is running level. Just saying
markowwes
Member
Not to put down any boat salesmen out there but in my purchasing experience they are not trained on the importance of trailer capacity and provincial regulations (RV salesmen included) I purchased a 20 foot Sea Ray back in 89 the salesman wanted to put a 5000lb boat on a single axle trailer, had to convince him tandem was the only way he was going to sell me anything. Purchased a 25’ Hydra Sports in 07, the salesman said a tandem would be good enough, 10,000lb boat on a tandem trailer wouldn’t cut it either. Coming from a trucking background I feel the best is to have more than enough wheels under the load than required. Not common sense to run a trailer at full capacity all the time, things wear out real fast that way, Also another point is to run “level” not too much bothers me as much as seeing a trailer with the nose down so much that the rear axle is just about off the ground or the other way around. You gain way more control if everything is running level. Just saying
finaddict
Well-Known Member
x2. had the same issue when I bought my boat and brought it across. Another factor that many people forget is dry vs. loaded weight. When you look up boat specifications and see the weight, that is dry, with no gear (and usually an average weight for O/B motor). I don't know of anyone who buys a boat and then leaves it stock.
Add in all the fishing gear, rods and cannon balls, mooring and anchoring gear, electronics, kicker, tools and personal gear and fill it with 100 gallons of fuel and you will find that you have probably added another 1500 lbs. to your boat weight. If you think you're legal, but you are on the cusp, drive your fully loaded boat, motor and trailer over the scale and see where you are at. It might surprise you.My previous boat was a 26' Campion Toba Command bridge, heavy and big on a rickety old tandem 6000 lb. trailer with sun cracked bias ply tires. I'll bet boat and trailer were over by 2000 lbs. I was pretty stupid with trailer tow weights back then and was VERY lucky that I did not have any accidents or kill anyone. I towed it with an old 92 F250 Ford 4x4 and that was probably not enough truck. Now I use a 1 ton and would not consider towing with anything less.
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Silent knots
Member
If you call ICBC, request to speak to someone who is knowledgeable about trailers and licensing. Alternatively, try your local weigh scales, they should have all of the information you require. First thing is safety... and you certainly don't want to be stressing your vehicle while hauling or braking. We moved up to a 1 ton and personally, I would never consider a 1/2 ton for hauling anything of significance. If you are hauling a trailer for any commercial purpose (fishing guides) that's a whole new can of worms as well.
If you get into an accident or have any failure where you might file a claim, you will be on your own and potentially fined if your vehicle/trailer doesn't meet requirements. If you go through a roadside trailer check (portable scales) and your rig combination doesn't meet the regulations, you will likely be fined and you will not be leaving with your boat and trailer.
If you get into an accident or have any failure where you might file a claim, you will be on your own and potentially fined if your vehicle/trailer doesn't meet requirements. If you go through a roadside trailer check (portable scales) and your rig combination doesn't meet the regulations, you will likely be fined and you will not be leaving with your boat and trailer.
JAC
Well-Known Member
When I was reading on Icbc site if you are over loaded you may get a fine but insurance is not void? I'm no lawyer so don't take that to court but something to look into. If you have a boat that is to the make of your trailer or truck it sucks anyways. Make sure you have the right truck and trailer for the job make traveling a lot more enjoyable
sly_karma
Crew Member
Doesn't negate the fact that every truck salesman around will try to bump you up to a 3/4 or 1 ton as the first mention of any kind of towing, diesel to follow shortly afterward. There's lots of people driving a truck sized and spec'd for a task that only equates to 5% of their annual driving, but they're paying for it full time. As I said before, everyone has a different situation, find a balanced solution.
casper5280
Crew Member
Only takes one accident and you could be paying for it for a lifetime. Just saying.
Fish Camp
Well-Known Member
i heard in bc we are only allowed 4600kg weight limit for class 5 passenger car licence over that we need to up grade to greater class licence with medical sign off.with a 1 ton dodge cummins weighs in at 4400kg, so truck load and hitch weight can't be more than 200kg with out up grade of licence.
trophy fisher
Active Member
FC , That is for trailer weight, not vehicle weight. You need an endorsement to tow a trailer weighing over 4600kg. Heavy trailer endorsement requires a medical. TF
SpringVelocity
Crew Member
What truck is it? If your asking I would say look for 3/4 not a 1/2 ton truck. Go way more than the rating .You don't have to get a huge truck but more power is better... If your thinking of a truck and at that size move up from 1/2 to to 3/4 ton.... Having more power and the extra suspension is great idea... I have a Chev 5.3L 1500 and I l like it tows my Malibu 185 which is pretty heavy boat..But I also am limited if I move up to 22, and same with travel trailer..... I had a vehicle 6 cylinder pathfinder that was underpowered/dangerous and I used way more gas, and was hard on vehicle..I also cruise over Mahalat on island and live in mountain area, so I am not going mostly on flat areas... Honestly a half ton could do it but do not go with anything under V8 5.0L... especially if your going to something 22 feet... That's just my opinion.
Adler
Well-Known Member
Incredible conversation all, lots of good info and thoughts. I'm glad I've only got the small boat now, and am likely remaining with one in the future. We've made our decision - the F150 3.5 Ecoboost 4x4, going to be a great truck for us.
Thanks for the thoughts, appreciate all input from forum members, as always!
Thanks for the thoughts, appreciate all input from forum members, as always!
pescador
Well-Known Member
Make sure whatever vehicle you buy your max tow capacity is 20% greater than the weight of your boat, trailer fully loaded weight. Consider liquids and gear. Also, there are rules around wheel base length you also need to consider. I think its vehicle wheel base should be at least 50% of your rear trailer axle to ball length. It makes a big diff on control at higher speeds. I learned the hard way and had to buy a new SUV.
Pineapple Express
Well-Known Member
Good choice. I've got a 2013 F150 EcoBoost too. It tows great.
Lots of good discussion here. One thing to be mindful of is the truck's payload capacity and the tongue weight of the boat/trailer. The F150 is OK (and better with the "max tow" package). The new Ram EcoDiesel is very limited in this regard.
Lots of good discussion here. One thing to be mindful of is the truck's payload capacity and the tongue weight of the boat/trailer. The F150 is OK (and better with the "max tow" package). The new Ram EcoDiesel is very limited in this regard.
gunnerlove
Well-Known Member
My friends brother figures if he was paying for all his fuel it will take him and his Dodge eco diesel 300 000 k to break even with my Ford ecoboost dollar wise. Funny that I can easily and legally tow almost 4000lbs more than his new rig.
JAC
Well-Known Member
I just made a spread sheet for work comparing a Toyota tacoma and dodge Eco diesel through out fleet purchase the Eco diesel is $2000 more the tacoma for up front capital costs. After running the diesel over 3 years and 130k Km we will have a $5000 fuel savings. We just ordered a Couple eco diesel so I will let you know how they go they will arrive by July 1st
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