Trailer rebuild

Thank you Seawolf, for the ideas and links. I will check them out in the morning. BTW, I have a Zodiac Super Seawolf watch I have dug out of a drawer, haven't worn it for years, since I taught SCUBA diving ( 1970's) - am looking into getting it overhauled... Just wondered if you're any relation...
 
Thanks much Striker! This helps me feel that I am on the right track. Looks like your order is a bit heavier gear than I need. I will get a few more prices from various vendors and refine exactly what I need. Cheers,
TR
 
I bought my EOH stuff from pacific axle in Langley and my dexter actuator wasnt as much as advertised above,
I already had the kodiak SS disc brakes and just needed to convert to EOH and 2 calipers were shot,
so the actuator, 2 new SS calipers, breakaway kit, plug harness, solid 2-5/16 extended coupler and some phony electric solenoids to trick my truck into recognizing the actuator
all in was $1000-1100. IIRC, keep in mind if you have integral brake controller from the factory in the newer trucks(2007?-up) most will require the solenoid mod or a brake-rite EHB adapter for trucks, the electric solenoids at princess auto are about 30$ for a pair and work nicely for that, easy 2 wire hookup, this is required because the integral controllers are a feedback system and need to see load on the system or they will not energize the hyd actuator, if you have an aftermarket controller then your good without the mod or EHB adaptor
 
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I am still trying to get mine back together, been a long slow process working out in the whistler elements lol. I I now have everything on and back together as of tonight. Hoping to try it out tomorrow and that it all works. There was a little more resistance than I thought there should be when the trailer was jacked up and spinning the wheels by hand. Especially on one caliper, I re bleeded that one and it seemed to help a little. I also have the ez lube on the spindle and I think that when I put the inner seal in it partial covered the outlet where the grease comes out, do be cautious as I had a little grease by pass the seals, the seal still looks fine. I pushed the seals in right to the bearings in the install so maybe your meant to leave a little space. My kit came with bearing buddies do I used them and there is clearance from the ez lube nipple. Get yourself a bearing packer, I wish I did tighten the brake lines pretty good as it's easy to have a slight leak and have pressure bleed off, I ended up bleeding a couple times fiquring it all out, still a little concerned on the slight brake drag. I hope the reverse solenoid wiring job I did works too, I wired it alone to the center of a 7pin as my lights are on a 4 pole and my truck has both female ends which may be acting up, we will see tomorrow. It will all be a lot easier if there's a next time
 
As for ordering the parts from the states, I couldn't seem to make the numbers work with the current exchange rate duty and shipping, my 12 inch 6 bolt 6000lbs premium titan brake end kit, tie down tandem brake line kit, 8600 lbs demco actuator and a few other supplies like grease was just under 1300 Canadian. I do get good pricing at lordco through work though.
 
Dave, did you end up buying a new actuator then? didnt like the 21000lb unit:D
I guess you could use it for an anchor too ;)
 
Hey Tim thanks again, I couldn't get it to work. The thing was so massive anyhow lol it's half the length of the trailer. Ya I don't know couldn't get it to pump fluid.
 
Earl ledge... If you live in or around victoria try using Express air international. http://expressairinternational.com/services/import-from-usa-to-canada/

You can ship your item to their address in Blaine and the they will bring it to their terminal at the airport in Victoria. You actually broker the product yourself with customs at the airport so the cost for shipping from Blaine to Victoria by express air is fairly cheap. I have done this many times and it is a great service.


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Frustrated!!

I just picked up my parts from Blaine and was ready to install them during this great weather but opened up the box and found the wrong parts. They sent me 13" rotors instead of 12". The order was correct but they shipped the wrong boxes. Another two weeks wait to get the correct ones. Should have bought locally I guess. :(




Hi

I just placed my order for the exactly the same parts. I went with the electric over hydraulic and cant see any reason they would not be good in the salt water environment. The electric parts are only on the tongue and not subject to getting wet, at least not on my trailer. I'm shipping to Blaine so got the free shipping.

Good luck

Here is my parts list:

Code Item Quantity Price/Ea. Total
K2HR526DS
rate it Kodiak Disc Brake Kit - 12" Hub/Rotor - 6 on 5-1/2 - Dacromet and Stainless - 6,000 lbs 2 $431.95 $863.90
BK3-100
rate it Bearing Kit, 15123/ 25580 Bearings, 10-36 Seal 4 $17.90 $71.60
X1023R
rate it Trailer Wheel Lug Nut - 1/2"(Each) 24 $0.60 $14.40
F001520
rate it Grease Cap - 2.446" Outer Diameter - 1-5/16" Tall - Drive In 4 $1.95 $7.80
K71-651
rate it Dexter Electric Over Hydraulic Brake Actuator (1,600 psi) 1 $724.95 $724.95
50-85-315
rate it Pro Series Push to Test Breakaway Kit with Premium Integrated Charger 1 $34.95 $34.95
Shipping: Free Shipping 175.57 less Discount ($175.57): $0.00
Sales Tax: $0.00
Total: $1,717.60
 
Many thanks Hali_Hauler, this just is the ticket. After a few weeks in Christmas-land, it is time to get this order together.
 
Completed my trailer build just before Christmas, all worked perfect. Felt good to do all the work myself. Through it all I learned a good brake bleed makes all the difference, use a bearing packer as my only concern is weather I have packed enough grease into the hubs, and finally it's not that complicated.
 
I have finally placed an order today for my brake parts from an outfit in California, Shadowtrailer, which also goes by trailerandtruckparts.com. Best pricing from the four requests I sent out.
I am more than a little fuzzy on the bearing lube systems. On this trailer the grease cap has a nipple on it and there is a channel that runs through to the inside of the wheel. I have been cleaning these channels with a piece of wire, and some are clear right from the inside where I can put the wire in, to the outer side, but two of the four are partially blocked, can't run the wire all the way out. I am wondering they came to be blocked, and how to clear them. I have not been back to the job for a few days, but intend to try air. Among all these types i- ncluding EZ lube, Sure Lube, bearing buddies and on this 22 year old EZLoader trailer I have blocked passages it seems and cannot find a YouTube for this type of grease system.
 
I have finally placed an order today for my brake parts from an outfit in California, Shadowtrailer, which also goes by trailerandtruckparts.com. Best pricing from the four requests I sent out.
I am more than a little fuzzy on the bearing lube systems. On this trailer the grease cap has a nipple on it and there is a channel that runs through to the inside of the wheel. I have been cleaning these channels with a piece of wire, and some are clear right from the inside where I can put the wire in, to the outer side, but two of the four are partially blocked, can't run the wire all the way out. I am wondering they came to be blocked, and how to clear them. I have not been back to the job for a few days, but intend to try air. Among all these types i- ncluding EZ lube, Sure Lube, bearing buddies and on this 22 year old EZLoader trailer I have blocked passages it seems and cannot find a YouTube for this type of grease system.

grease over time (usually takes along time) can turn to a hard wax like substance. If it were me I think i'd take something like a thin welding rod (break the flux off it first), flatten (peen) one end with a hammer, put a 90 degree bend in the other end a few inches from the end, insert in the channel passage and crank on it. that may break up the substance. and use compressed air as you mentioned to try to get rid of it... i can see it having the hardened grease after 22 years if the spindles haven't been greased frequently... could also try heating the end of the welding rod with a small propane torch to try melting out also...

grease is just basically oil and wax or soaps... once the grease loses the oil it reverts back to the wax and soap compound. (can be caused by heat and long lengths of time)
 
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Thanks for this suggestion, it makes sense. I will try it and let you know how it worked out!







grease over time (usually takes along time) can turn to a hard wax like substance. If it were me I think i'd take something like a thin welding rod (break the flux off it first), flatten (peen) one end with a hammer, put a 90 degree bend in the other end a few inches from the end, insert in the channel passage and crank on it. that may break up the substance. and use compressed air as you mentioned to try to get rid of it... i can see it having the hardened grease after 22 years if the spindles haven't been greased frequently... could also try heating the end of the welding rod with a small propane torch to try melting out also...

grease is just basically oil and wax or soaps... once the grease loses the oil it reverts back to the wax and soap compound. (can be caused by heat and long lengths of time)
 
Did my bearings on sure lube system and took a few photos of how I do it. The first pic is after tapping in the rear seal and packing the gap between the bearing and the seal with grease. This is the area where fresh grease will come out the hole on the spindle. The white around the rear seal is from a small bead of thread sealer. A bit of over kill but I use a small bead around the dust cap on the front too. The tedious part of the bead is making sure the surfaces are clean.

pic 1.jpg

The next shot is looking down on the bearing from the front. You can see that grease is bulging out of the bearings after hand packing them. Need to add a layer of grease to the race before installing the bearing. At this point, I fill that cavity with grease, adhering it to the walls. Fill circularly and end up with a narrow hollow the spindle will go through.

pic 2.jpg

The next pic shows the hole at the rear of the spindle. I have installed a speedy sleeve just behind the hole. The rear seal should ride on the speedy sleeve. I’ve stopped my rear seal problems with the speedy sleeves. Dmurph, if your seal is riding over the hole, it may wear the seal prematurely. You can keep an eye on the inside of your fenders for any grease that might spew out. Milky grease inside is another sign of water intrusion. Pumping in fresh grease to see what comes out is a benefit of the sure lube.

pic 3.jpg

The last pic is after it’s put together and then pumped full of grease. The excess grease just flows out the front. You don’t have to worry about the rear seal failing due to too much grease pressure inside. Install the rubber cap and make sure you have a nice little grease seal inside the lip. The nipple design of the cap should negate any water intrusion due to warm hubs dunked in the cold water causing contraction.

pic 4.jpg

In the end, I know my hubs and bearings are as packed with grease, as they can be keeping any water out and preventing failure. To be on the safe side when travelling, I always have a spare set of bearings, races and tools. Never used them thankfully.
Hopefully this is of some help.
 
3 years ago I went to pull the boat out of the driveway and had a siezed drum brake. I decided to go all out and switched over to electric over hydraulic with Kodiak SS discs. Bought local from Darryl at Thomcat Equipment and Trailer Sales on Station rd in Langford. I also replaced all brake lines with stainless tube from Metal Supermarket (had to buy a flaring set) and SS hoses from Coast Industrial. It was pretty expensive but I have been trouble free ever since. I learned a long time ago that your toys need to be plug and play.
 
Well I finally finished my trailer brake rebuild,so here are some final comments:
Because my vintage ezloader trailer had a strange grease passage, I did try to dig them clear. Two of the four were open, but the other two have some metal obstruction that wouldn't clear. As best I can make out, there was some sort of valve system on the inner side of the axle, and they have been breaking down for some reason. Anyway, I installed speedy sleeves over the inner profile where the grease was to go out, the idea being to prevent water from getting in and to provide a new stainless surface for my new, double seals to ride on. This all went together, though the speedy sleeves were almost too wide, but not quite.
Then I installed new bearing buddies on the outside after packing the space between the axle to the hub. The new buddies vent off the excess grease outward, so I plan to monitor that and give them a squirt now and then.
I had limited success with the Princess Auto bearing packer, it just did not do a consistent job and I had to finish some of the packing by hand in the end.
The new discs went on ok, but why does Kodiac put the instructions for mounting direction on the plastic bag the calipers slider bolts come in? After reading the paper booklet instructions several times, it was only on a YouTube video I found reference to installing them at nine o'clock on the right side, that is on the rear side of the axle. And then later I found this instruction on the bag as I was installing the calipers.
Bleeding was a bit of a pain, too. I installed a new surge mechanism and ran a new brake line from the front to the back. So with all that air in the line they were reluctant to bleed. I used a hand vacuum, eventually trying each caliper, and only got a few drops of fluid. Finally I discovered that I could use the emergency brake lever as a pump. I had to take the bolts of the lever's cover plate and then remove the metal spring clip that holds the brake lever in the upper, 'on' position. After I got that worked out bleeding became easy: pull the emergency brake lever on the surge, hold, crack & bleed, tighten bleeder and repeat.
In the end the brakes seem to work very well. Oh, and I had to install an electrical feed from my backup lights to the surge mechanism to power the reverse lock-out. I picked up the power from behind the brake light assembly on my Chev truck, ground some paint off in there for a good ground, and it seems fine, backing up works. Thanks for all the help.
Oh, and I got dinged unexpectedly for sales tax bringing the parts in through the Blaine to Victoria shipper, at customs. Parts and materials were about $1200 for the tandem.
 
Searched out this old thread to see when I did my trailer rebuild. Job didn't last very long. Everything is shot. Was going to re bleed my brakes and started checking things out a bit closer. I knew I messed up one of the seals with to much grease, but it turns out all the berings are destroyed. My trailer sits most of the time so maybe that's not good. Not sure seems like all my calipers may be messed also.
 
Idle trailer means bearings have time to rust if any water is present.
seems the only time I have trailer trouble is when it sits for extended periods.
 
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