Squid Row
Member
Why you gotta be a prick?
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Wheel Bearings... Getting Screwed Again
- Thread starter Fish Assassin
- Start date
Why you gotta be a prick?
Fish Assassin
Crew Member
My spare tire is on a spindle mount that is a complete spare hub and bearing kit. It's under $100 to buy.
Pack a file in your road side repair kit. Often your spindle will be damage if it come to a road side blow out. You may need to file down some ridges to get new bearings on.... This will get you home to where you will have to do some major repairs.
Pack a file in your road side repair kit. Often your spindle will be damage if it come to a road side blow out. You may need to file down some ridges to get new bearings on.... This will get you home to where you will have to do some major repairs.
where did you purchase spare hub and bearing?
Mine is the same as FA's. I had mine set up that way when I bought the trailer. But you can usually order the same from the trailer manufacturer after the fact. Most good trailer repair places can also either sell you what you need or point you in the right direction. Many hubs can even be found at std. auto supply places (but they usually don't have bearing buddies or appropriate seals for marine use).
Fish Assassin
Crew Member
There in the boat centre can get them in for you... Just make sure they order the right one for you.
Mighty Sylvan
Active Member
I got caught on the PA highway today. I always carry my tools and bearings with me when I tow. Today was the first time I forgot the tool box, and guess what... My dear 74 year old dad came in big and drove my tool box up to me and got me back on the road. It doesn't matter if your 16 or 40 you can count on your Dad.
Killer B's
Member
Just replaced all the hubs and brakes on my trailer. Backing plates with brakes $62 each and new hubs with bearings and ceils all greased ready to go $86 each. 4 sets for $644 at hub city springs in Nanaimo. Easy to install.
scott craven
Well-Known Member
tell tale noise prompted me to remove my right wheel hub to find the inner bearing in pieces...
replaced the whole hub for $50 (Rockwell American is Chinese made)
what a messy facking job
replaced the whole hub for $50 (Rockwell American is Chinese made)
what a messy facking job
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scott craven
Well-Known Member
Question, when rebuilding the hub and using bearing buddy's
do you use a front grease seal ?
if so how does the grease from the buddy penetrate to the rear bearing ?
do you use a front grease seal ?
if so how does the grease from the buddy penetrate to the rear bearing ?
salmonkiller01
Well-Known Member
Have you put speedy sleeves on your axels? I get mine thru a ez-loader dealer, $10 a side and they fit great. No need for bearing buddies because I do not get water in past the seal.
The only seal is at the back of the hub. The Bearing Buddy seals the front. The grease does become more of a liquid as it heats up and works it's way through the middle of the hub. A bearing packer works the grease through your bearing with pressure much the same way as a Bearing Buddy applies pressure to the front bearing. If you overfill with grease the rear seal fails, so it does work it's way from front to rear.
scott craven
Well-Known Member
Thanks gents, that confirms what I was told
Sir Reel
Well-Known Member
My trailer has super lube hubs. Anyone have experience with these?
Also anyone know where I can get Lucas red n tacky grease?
http://www.tiedown.com/pdf/c718.pdf
Also anyone know where I can get Lucas red n tacky grease?
http://www.tiedown.com/pdf/c718.pdf
No experience with the super lube system but it looks very similar to sure-lube system. Differences being position of the zerk and where grease enters the cavity. Follow the instructions on that pdf and you will be very happy, IMO. Most auto supply places will sell red n tacky. Maybe not Lucas.
Bearing Pre-load is critical, if you do everything else correct but screw this up you could be in for more trouble.
I was lucky, when i bought my current boat the previous owner was on the ball, everything was well taken care of and i scored 2 full spare hubs with packed bearings, parts schematic and manufacturer service manual for the trailer, i take the bearings out yearly, clean em up, inspect &,repack. I could ramble on about the whole process but the video below explains everything.
Pt.1
[video]https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2_9iBXjhaaM
Pt.2
[video]https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=WPH3n5hdPHQ
Once everything is all back together its a good idea to drive short distances, stop and feel the hub temperature, drive a little further and check again, the faster and further you go the hotter they could and probably will run, warm is ok but not hot.
I happen to like and prefer Timken bearings, seen all kinds servicing motors & pumps at work and i'm always impressed with their quality so elect to use them myself.
What Grease to look for ?
Grease has classifications for service uses.* The classification consists of two letters – either “L” or “G”.* For suspension type components such as ball joints, kingpins, and steering components, the letter designation is “L”. “G” is the letter designation for wheel bearings.** The second letter indicates the severity of service “A” for less severe, “B” for more Severe, and “C” for most severe.
Example GC = wheel bearings most severe Some grease products are double rated e.g. LC & GC.* Having both ratings makes the product multipurpose grease
This is the grease i use, one of our fleet mechanics at work got me onto it.
Chevron Delo EP NLGI #2 ( GC LB )
I get it the same bulk fuel place i buy ethanol free marked fuel.
$3.50 a tube
I was lucky, when i bought my current boat the previous owner was on the ball, everything was well taken care of and i scored 2 full spare hubs with packed bearings, parts schematic and manufacturer service manual for the trailer, i take the bearings out yearly, clean em up, inspect &,repack. I could ramble on about the whole process but the video below explains everything.
Pt.1
[video]https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2_9iBXjhaaM
Pt.2
[video]https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=WPH3n5hdPHQ
Once everything is all back together its a good idea to drive short distances, stop and feel the hub temperature, drive a little further and check again, the faster and further you go the hotter they could and probably will run, warm is ok but not hot.
I happen to like and prefer Timken bearings, seen all kinds servicing motors & pumps at work and i'm always impressed with their quality so elect to use them myself.
What Grease to look for ?
Grease has classifications for service uses.* The classification consists of two letters – either “L” or “G”.* For suspension type components such as ball joints, kingpins, and steering components, the letter designation is “L”. “G” is the letter designation for wheel bearings.** The second letter indicates the severity of service “A” for less severe, “B” for more Severe, and “C” for most severe.
Example GC = wheel bearings most severe Some grease products are double rated e.g. LC & GC.* Having both ratings makes the product multipurpose grease
This is the grease i use, one of our fleet mechanics at work got me onto it.
Chevron Delo EP NLGI #2 ( GC LB )
I get it the same bulk fuel place i buy ethanol free marked fuel.
$3.50 a tube
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bigdogeh
Well-Known Member
really good info vanboozin. you mentioned checking for heat also. I carry a cheap digital infra red (lazer) thermal gun in my truck and check the temps of my hubs at every stop also. it'll tell you if you have or may have a problem before it happens also.... imo I think all trailers bearings and hubs should be rated for double the rate of what they are towing. I think that would eliminate alot of probs... and maybe double up on the lip seals also...
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