Rapid corrosion on motor

[brutus]

Zincs look fine and I did replace them and compared the weights and was a very minimal difference

The previous owner had the wiring replaced and all looks decently done. I found a few issues so far and believe have narrowed it down to the house fuse panel. I removed all fuses then added 1 by 1 and everything seems to draw current some more then others. So it’s either an issue with the fuse panel or the wiring . Once I’m more mobile again I will be dissecting it. Either way I want to get the motor repaired as I will get to the bottom of it before she goes back in the salt.
Anyone work for beer?

Lol stop drinking 20 years ago, I don’t mind doing it on my boat but not in to doing it on others boats lol. I clean all my wiring every winter, replace butt ends that look ****** and test all with a multimeter before the boat goes in the water, Btw I am no expert in this domain, but most time when I have issues it as to do with bad ground wired, I have a long wire with gator clamps at both ends and always bipass the ground. I am sure some members have a lot more knowledge of 12volt electrical then I do. One thing for sure is keeping everything clean is a big factor in electrical gremlins

 

[Sea Chaser]

Lol stop drinking 20 years ago, I don’t mind doing it on my boat but not in to doing it on others boats lol. I clean all my wiring every winter, replace butt ends that look ****** and test all with a multimeter before the boat goes in the water, Btw I am no expert in this domain, but most time when I have issues it as to do with bad ground wired, I have a long wire with gator clamps at both ends and always bipass the ground. I am sure some members have a lot more knowledge of 12volt electrical then I do. One thing for sure is keeping everything clean is a big factor in electrical gremlins

Please elaborate more on this .

 

[brutus]

Please elaborate more on this .

Let me give it shot, gator clamps at both ends for easy connect, from the batterie ground post at one end to whatever ground system you are testing,then use your multimeter to read your voltage, if your voltage is the same without the the bipass wire your ground is good, might not be the right way of doing it but seems to work for me, also do the same for pos wire, that way you eliminate one system at the time.your first step would be to make sure your main ground is grounded to the hull properly, assuming you have a grounding block on the hull, mine is grounded to a true hull valve in the bilge area, not sure if it make sense???

 

[Sea Chaser]

Let me give it shot, gator clamps at both ends for easy connect, from the batterie ground post at one end to whatever ground system you are testing,then use your multimeter to read your voltage, if your voltage is the same without the the bipass wire your ground is good, might not be the right way of doing it but seems to work for me, also do the same for pos wire, that way you eliminate one system at the time.your first step would be to make sure your main ground is grounded to the hull properly, assuming you have a grounding block on the hull, mine is grounded to a true hull valve in the bilge area, not sure if it make sense???

Thanks, will be definitely stringing a wire similar to what you have suggested to process and eliminate any issues with wiring.
I do have a negative terminal block and looks like it’s just bonded/grounded (what ever you consider this) to the motors. Not sure if this is correct as don’t think I have any thru hull fittings. Have not went 100% detective mode on this yet but like I said once I’m capable again will be the first thing I do. I’ve got passed the irritated mode and want to get to the bottom of this so I can hopefully get out this winter.

 

[brutus]

Thanks, will be definitely stringing a wire similar to what you have suggested to process and eliminate any issues with wiring.
I do have a negative terminal block and looks like it’s just bonded/grounded (what ever you consider this) to the motors. Not sure if this is correct as don’t think I have any thru hull fittings. Have not went 100% detective mode on this yet but like I said once I’m capable again will be the first thing I do. I’ve got passed the irritated mode and want to get to the bottom of this so I can hopefully get out this winter.

The wiring harness from your outboard should have a ground wire to your bus bar, make sure that is clean, make sure your batteries are grounded to the hull, usually a wire going to the hull from your batteries, then go over all your systems, look for damage wires and connections. I have found voltage leaks just from using a multimeter, ground on batteries and touching anything metal with the positive, my radar arch ad a bad ground and my lights only needed a pos wire to light up lol

 

[Gear'n'beer!]

I trouble shoot electrical gremlins the same way as Brutus......I just use a long set of jumper cables I have around but I think Brutus' method would be easier than lugging heavy cables around. I also have an older vintage bf 225 with about 1600 hrs and I don't have the corrosion issues I'm seeing in your pics so I fail to believe the "it's a honda" remark. Previously I also had the old square cowl bf9.9 and I never had any issues with it either....I just found it noisy. One other trick I got off this forum is to brush muriatic acid on the zincs to remove the surface corrosion.

 

[ericl]

It MAY be possible that there is excessive electrical currents in your ground system; there should be an electrical path from the batteries NEG terminal to the case of the motor where contact with the water establishes a connection to earth (via the water). The ground path of ALL your ground wires will have some electrical resistance measured in Ohms, and as such an associated voltage drop. This small amounts of resistance/voltage are difficult to measure.

I doubt that any anodes on the motor are intended to mitigate an issue related to "grounding problems".

If you have a boat in the water & you are connected to shore power, there are issues that can be caused by the method the green AC ground wire is connected.

The info from brutus is VERY good. FYI the install instructions for my Furuno sounder have the case ground terminal connected to a bolt thru the hull versus the boats main grounding system to eliminate electrical interference (very small currents/voltages) that exist on the main grounding system.

 

[fishin solo]

Gotta love electrical..... if it were me and seeing as you said previous owner did a rewire seems something is wrong , I would rewire the whole boat. It’s not that hard at all and 12v is as basic as it comes..... you would be surprised at some of the **** people do and call it a rewire..... trust me I know from experience even some companies that claim to be boat people/professionals etc are full of **** and completely clueless and do nothing but cut corners. They would rather spend time trying to hide their ****** work then doing it properly to marine standards. Winter is your friend lots of time for boat upgrades and maintenance. Nothing like knowing every single inch of your boat and all the systems and wiring that run it.

 

[Sea Chaser]

Gotta love electrical..... if it were me and seeing as you said previous owner did a rewire seems something is wrong , I would rewire the whole boat. It’s not that hard at all and 12v is as basic as it comes..... you would be surprised at some of the **** people do and call it a rewire..... trust me I know from experience even some companies that claim to be boat people/professionals etc are full of **** and completely clueless and do nothing but cut corners. They would rather spend time trying to hide their ****** work then doing it properly to marine standards. Winter is your friend lots of time for boat upgrades and maintenance. Nothing like knowing every single inch of your boat and all the systems and wiring that run it.

I’ve eliminated a few things that I didn’t like so far and found a few other things that have been repaired /replaced. My next step will be pulling out or exposing the wires from the batteries (in the stern) up to the cuddy where the house fuse panel is. Will likely use Brutus method to start with before pulling everything out at the moment. Not entirely in the budget to re wire everything yet but will definitely know what and where every inch of wire does and the condition of it.

 

[brutus]

It MAY be possible that there is excessive electrical currents in your ground system; there should be an electrical path from the batteries NEG terminal to the case of the motor where contact with the water establishes a connection to earth (via the water). The ground path of ALL your ground wires will have some electrical resistance measured in Ohms, and as such an associated voltage drop. This small amounts of resistance/voltage are difficult to measure.

I doubt that any anodes on the motor are intended to mitigate an issue related to "grounding problems".

If you have a boat in the water & you are connected to shore power, there are issues that can be caused by the method the green AC ground wire is connected.

The info from brutus is VERY good. FYI the install instructions for my Furuno sounder have the case ground terminal connected to a bolt thru the hull versus the boats main grounding system to eliminate electrical interference (very small currents/voltages) that exist on the main grounding system.

Did not say it the zink would mitigate the problem, but if they melt off premature is a sign of voltage leak, I think anyway, I might be wrong

 

[brutus]

Gotta love electrical..... if it were me and seeing as you said previous owner did a rewire seems something is wrong , I would rewire the whole boat. It’s not that hard at all and 12v is as basic as it comes..... you would be surprised at some of the **** people do and call it a rewire..... trust me I know from experience even some companies that claim to be boat people/professionals etc are full of **** and completely clueless and do nothing but cut corners. They would rather spend time trying to hide their ****** work then doing it properly to marine standards. Winter is your friend lots of time for boat upgrades and maintenance. Nothing like knowing every single inch of your boat and all the systems and wiring that run it.

That is exactly why I rewire myself, I know my system from one end to the other when I am done, it’s not as clean as some of the wiring jobs I have seen, in fact it’s a bit of a mess, but it Works for me lol

 

[brutus]

I’ve eliminated a few things that I didn’t like so far and found a few other things that have been repaired /replaced. My next step will be pulling out or exposing the wires from the batteries (in the stern) up to the cuddy where the house fuse panel is. Will likely use Brutus method to start with before pulling everything out at the moment. Not entirely in the budget to re wire everything yet but will definitely know what and where every inch of wire does and the condition of it.

Good call

 

[profisher]

I rewired my Seasport maybe 8-10 years ago and while I didn’t find much wrong as I bought the boat new...so no one bad chopped the wiring up....I used much better bardware than the factory. I changed out breakers with auto style blade fuses which offer faster protection to expensive devices than breakers do. The only down side is having to carry spares over pushing a
button to reset. Used marine grade wire where the factory didn’t. Had enough terminals to put each device on its own circuit and labeled them all. As said before now I know where to look if something stoos working.

 

[ericl]

Did not say it the zink would mitigate the problem, but if they melt off premature is a sign of voltage leak, I think anyway, I might be wrong

You are probably right. IMO the boat/motor will have to be in Saltwater to diagnose the problem; I have never done this before.

it’s not as clean as some of the wiring jobs I have seen, in fact it’s a bit of a mess

A bit of a mess CAN be good; wires transmit cross-talk best when the wires are parallel & close to each other; keeping dc, ac, & signals separated from each other is good.

 

[Sea Chaser]

internal zincs . No difference in weights



looks pretty good in there . Cleaned it up after the pic was taken.

 

[gungadin]

those anodes were in good shape and the coolant passages look very clean. No issue with corrosion there for sure.

 

[brutus]

View attachment 58470

internal zincs . No difference in weights

View attachment 58471

looks pretty good in there . Cleaned it up after the pic was taken.

Looks pretty good for a Honda lol, now you need to figure out why that cancer is happening on your lower unit, really odd

 

[Sea Chaser]

Looks pretty good for a Honda lol, now you need to figure out why that cancer is happening on your lower unit, really odd

That’s next on the list once I am 100% recovered . Gonna pull the lower unit get that repaired then dig into wiring . Been off 19 days from work so starting to go crazy had to do something lol .

 

[brutus]

That’s next on the list once I am 100% recovered . Gonna pull the lower unit get that repaired then dig into wiring . Been off 19 days from work so starting to go crazy had to do something lol .

Looking closely at your pic of your lower unit, it looks deep in some area,I would pic at it to see how deep the corrosion is before spending to much on repairs,a used housing or lower unit might be a better option. Just my opinion, I would poke at that loose stuff to see how deep it is

 

[Sea Chaser]

Looking closely at your pic of your lower unit, it looks deep in some area,I would pic at it to see how deep the corrosion is before spending to much on repairs,a used housing or lower unit might be a better option. Just my opinion, I would poke at that loose stuff to see how deep it is

Most likely get it sand blasted . That should reveal the severity .