Double Eagle 17' 6" I/O Project Boat

Where are you located? I’ve recently completed a 1977 17.5’ DE inboard to outboard project..took me quite awhile, but was soooo worth it. If you live near Comox, it may be worth your while to wander by, have a look and compare notes...
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@stephennicholls531 Beautiful looking boat, Nice job
I'm in Victoria, Thanks for the offer, I occasionally get up that way to dive
But for the meantime I'll pick your brain and chat about ideas here
Cheers
 
Yep, it was. I moved it up on the bracket as far as I could, and then installed a leg extension kit to put the prop back down to where it needed to be.
 
I've never seen a dodger like that on one of these West Coast classic small hardtops. I imagine it's functional but it also looks very dated. The hardtops without the dodger seem to have a classic look that doesn't really age or pin it to a particular era.

I'll be following along. This looks like an ambitious project!
 
I've never seen a dodger like that on one of these West Coast classic small hardtops. I imagine it's functional but it also looks very dated. The hardtops without the dodger seem to have a classic look that doesn't really age or pin it to a particular era.

I'll be following along. This looks like an ambitious project!

@Pineapple Express Are you referring to the windscreen on top of hardtop ?
That was an diy add on from someone else
They also added a grab rail across the top
 
Here's a few photos from todays progress
After spending a few more hours trying to remove leg, trying a few suggestions from another forum
The leg wasn't going to give in
So I took a photo with my phone to see if it was moving at all, Didn't even budge
So to plan B, no more wasting time
Out came the cutting torch, three minutes later the leg was on it way out
Then onto removing the engine
Because the motor hoist wasn't tall enough to lift the whole over the transom
I had to take the top and bottom halves out separately
Top half was easy, as it could just be lift in one hoist
Bottom half was more difficult, lift, block, adjust chain, lift, block, adjust chain, rinse & repeat, rinse & repeat, you get the picture
Started running out of day light, but the motor is out

IMG_1442.JPGIMG_1443.JPGIMG_1445.JPGIMG_1446.JPGIMG_1447.JPG
 
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Those hull interior shots take me back 5 years to the fall rebuild I did on my hull. Didn't have to remove an old inboard block though, those are special all by themselves. Engine hoist is your friend. Keep those pics coming!
 
Those hull interior shots take me back 5 years to the fall rebuild I did on my hull. Didn't have to remove an old inboard block though, those are special all by themselves. Engine hoist is your friend. Keep those pics coming!

@sly_karma Please elaborate on failed rebuild, what went wrong, hopely I don't make the same mistakes, Thanks
 
@Pineapple Express Are you referring to the windscreen on top of hardtop ?
That was an diy add on from someone else
They also added a grab rail across the top

Yes, I'm referring to the upper windscreen. On sailboats and other salty boats this configuration is called a dodger.

I do see that there is/was a handrail up there. It would be a great place to stand while the boat is running.
 
Anyone know how to remove the aluminum Rub Rails from an 40+ year old DE
There are no face screws on rails
Would like to replace the rubber behind the rub rail
To stop water from leaking in from the rub rails
Then reattach themRub Rail.JPG
 
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Bed it with foam tape before re-installing, held on with 1/4 "T" bolts regular steel. When removing and re-fastening you need to grind 1/4 S.S carriage bolts to fit into rail slot as S.S "T" bolts are extremely expensive if you can source them. Then stick foam tape to boat, bolt on rail and cut excess tape off. Done several this way no water leaks and best of all no sealant mess to clean up.
 
Bed it with foam tape before re-installing, held on with 1/4 "T" bolts regular steel. When removing and re-fastening you need to grind 1/4 S.S carriage bolts to fit into rail slot as S.S "T" bolts are extremely expensive if you can source them. Then stick foam tape to boat, bolt on rail and cut excess tape off. Done several this way no water leaks and best of all no sealant mess to clean up.

@Fish-on Thanks was wondering how it was held on
The regular steel tee slots are corroded and causing streaks stains down the side of the boat
Just wondering ? once the tee bolts are removed could the deck be removed ?
Or is other fasteners holding the deck to hull ?
Cheers
 
Floor ply removal, was totally rotted out
Surprised not to find floatation foam under the floor, is this normal ?IMG_1460.JPGIMG_1461.JPG
 
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