Battery Switch Help

[sly_karma]

The best two-battery setup is to have one Starting battery and one House battery. Starting batteries are built to deliver short bursts of high power and then be recharged immediately afterward. The house battery delivers power to all other non-engine loads like radio, sounder, GPS, stereo, downriggers, lights, bait circ pumps, fridge, phone chargers, washdown pump, etc. Best to use a deep cycle for this application as they are designed to deliver steady power over longer periods of time and can handle being drawn down to low capacity before needing charging.

So you wire main engine and kicker to the Starting battery (1) and all other loads to the House (2). The battery switch would then operate as follows:

• starting main: position 1
• running to fishing location: 1+2 (so both batteries are charging)
• starting kicker: 1
• trolling on kicker, using downriggers etc: 2
• starting main: 1
• returning to port: 1+2
• end of boating day: OFF

That's a lot of switch changes to make. The critical error often made is to leave the switch in 1+2 position when arriving at the fishing location and the riggers/plotter/sounder/VHF can deplete the starting battery. Using an ACR like the Blue Seas system automates all of these changes so all you do is switch on in the morning and off at the end of the day. It isolates the starting battery whenever it detects that neither engine is producing charging current, loads can only draw from the house side. While it's true that the kicker does produce some charging current, if you're trolling slowly or with the tide that current may not be sufficient to replace the energy being drawn by frequent use of high speed riggers. I've put the meter on my Merc 4 stroke running rpms for 2 mph and it's only producing 3 amps. Add together a long day of fishing slow and deep, lots of downrigger cycling, radio and electronics running and perhaps a starting battery getting toward the end of its days and you could find you can't start the main when you're ready to head home.

Really need to isolate that starting battery so all it does is start engines. Even if you don't go the ACR route you should wire the engines so they both start from the same starting battery and all house loads come from a deep cycle.

 

[Foxsea]

The best two-battery setup is to have one Starting battery and one House battery. Starting batteries are built to deliver short bursts of high power and then be recharged immediately afterward. The house battery delivers power to all other non-engine loads like radio, sounder, GPS, stereo, downriggers, lights, bait circ pumps, fridge, phone chargers, washdown pump, etc. Best to use a deep cycle for this application as they are designed to deliver steady power over longer periods of time and can handle being drawn down to low capacity before needing charging.

So you wire main engine and kicker to the Starting battery (1) and all other loads to the House (2). The battery switch would then operate as follows:

• starting main: position 1
• running to fishing location: 1+2 (so both batteries are charging)
• starting kicker: 1
• trolling on kicker, using downriggers etc: 2
• starting main: 1
• returning to port: 1+2
• end of boating day: OFF

That's a lot of switch changes to make. The critical error often made is to leave the switch in 1+2 position when arriving at the fishing location and the riggers/plotter/sounder/VHF can deplete the starting battery. Using an ACR like the Blue Seas system automates all of these changes so all you do is switch on in the morning and off at the end of the day. It isolates the starting battery whenever it detects that neither engine is producing charging current, loads can only draw from the house side. While it's true that the kicker does produce some charging current, if you're trolling slowly or with the tide that current may not be sufficient to replace the energy being drawn by frequent use of high speed riggers. I've put the meter on my Merc 4 stroke running rpms for 2 mph and it's only producing 3 amps. Add together a long day of fishing slow and deep, lots of downrigger cycling, radio and electronics running and perhaps a starting battery getting toward the end of its days and you could find you can't start the main when you're ready to head home.

Really need to isolate that starting battery so all it does is start engines. Even if you don't go the ACR route you should wire the engines so they both start from the same starting battery and all house loads come from a deep cycle.

Precisely! What sly karma said ^^^. Great post.

 

[daddystoy]

This is how I wired my batteries. The switch on the left is for the main power. I turn that to the 1 position. The switch in the middle is for the deep cycle. It starts the 9.9 yamaha and runs the electronics. The switch on the right is to open the circuit for the acr when not in use so there is no power draw. And with the magic of switching with the 1/2 both switch I can isolate or combine both batteries if needed.

 

[Baxter]

This is how I wired my batteries. The switch on the left is for the main power. I turn that to the 1 position. The switch in the middle is for the deep cycle. It starts the 9.9 yamaha and runs the electronics. The switch on the right is to open the circuit for the acr when not in use so there is no power draw. And with the magic of switching with the 1/2 both switch I can isolate or combine both batteries if needed.

WOW - that is intense! But very clean. Nice job.

 

[daddystoy]

Thanks. It was a lot of work but fun to do.

 

[RevyG]

I run one good battery and carry a jumpstart power box, these new ones are small and powerful, will start my diesel truck, skid steer and USB if needed. Both motors charge so never had an issue and I can start kicker with pull cord charge up then start main OB, never had to but it’s an option. Way less of all that wiring and potential corrosion and never mind the maintenance and weight. One less PAin in my ....

 

[Baxter]

I run one good battery and carry a jumpstart power box, these new ones are small and powerful, will start my diesel truck, skid steer and USB if needed. Both motors charge so never had an issue and I can start kicker with pull cord charge up then start main OB, never had to but it’s an option. Way less of all that wiring and potential corrosion and never mind the maintenance and weight. One less PAin in my ....

Ya, the kicker charges too, but I wonder if it puts out enough amps to run the electronics etc, probably just slows the drain. Could wrap a cord on it and manually start the kicker if needed also...

I am not overly worried about the batteries running dry, but just wanted to make sure I get hthe best use out of my equipment.

Brother-in-law has one of those battery pack jump start things also and loves it. I may get one as well - not too pricey and great for that extra level of security.

 

[RevyG]

I am able to watch my charging on my finder and the 9.9 merc has no problem keeping battery charged, I run Lowrance HDS 9, 2 riggers, radio and chargers and things, even ran a Chilly Moose freezer for a week on the central coast all will zero issues. I get it if you’re running a big cabin cruiser but with my 20 ft TJ HT I am happy to not have all the fuss of 2 batteries and associated wiring.

 

[heavytacklecrackle]

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/bep-...uster-for-single-engine--14152201?recordNum=2

Probably the best system available. Easy to install no need to add cables like the blue seas system. Usually sits in the same footprint as your old 1/2/both switch. Takes all the guess work out of the mysterious 1/2/both. Switch
batteries isolated so you dont spike your electronics starting your main and dont drain your start battery accidentally leaving electronics or something running.
still have the ability to parallel if you need to.
Take a look into it.

 

[Baxter]

Installed a charger today. Crazy awkward but pretty simple process.

 

[sly_karma]

I've had my eye on something like that for a while. Just have a regular $50 canadian tire special mounted in there now, need to switch between batteries and the non marine design shows, rust coming through the plating on the battery clips. Let us know how the Guest charger works for you.

 

[Baxter]

I've had my eye on something like that for a while. Just have a regular $50 canadian tire special mounted in there now, need to switch between batteries and the non marine design shows, rust coming through the plating on the battery clips. Let us know how the Guest charger works for you.

So far it appears to be working great.