How do you drop your traps?

Rain City

Crew Member
So I dropped my new prawn traps yesterday and much to my dismay they ALL landed upside down (mud on the top when I pulled them up). The 12lb traps are heavier on the bottom and are supposed to right themselves as they sink. So what I normally do is try and drop against the current staying in gear as I let line out. This particular setup I have a 10lb flat weight clipped 30' past the last trap towards the buoy. What I try and do is give the rope a long tug once the gear has fallen a ways to make sure I spread the gear out. These new traps have an offset top rope to allegedly make them easier to pull up, to trap the prawns against one side and to allow the traps to lay flat as you drop your gear. I'm told by more than one person that the traps being upside down isn't a big deal but when I read up on it more the tunnels are supposed to be high up so the prawns can't just walk out (made sense to me). On my traps they are 100% at the "top" of the trap. So with all those variables in mind what the hell is making my traps flip upside down?

-current direction?
-10lb weight too big or unnecessary?
-need more weight in traps?
-dont pull on the gear when setting?
-let the gear down slowly?

Let the debate begin I guess.
 
Mud is always bad when prawning.....never a good sign. Maybe they are dragging when you pull them up and it looks like they landed upside down? Not familiar with the offset rope set up.
 
Mud is always bad when prawning.....never a good sign. Maybe they are dragging when you pull them up and it looks like they landed upside down? Not familiar with the offset rope set up.
Thanks for the reply. I was always told this as well but this area, which usually produces well, is most certainly a mud bottom. Apparently being "near" rocks is all that matters.
 
I try and get the spread between the traps right for the first third of the line, then zig zag over the area. No pulling if I think the gear is near the bottom.
As for current, if it is moving, you set into it, you release your scotchman and it will travel back over top the traps.
 
Sounds to me like your in line 10lb could be sinking quicker than the traps and pulling them by the bridle upside down to the bottom ?

I weight each trap and then tie a knot in the line roughly 20’ from the last trap, I set my traps and once I feel them land I then clip on a weight on a carabiner and let this slide down until It hits the knot. Works great every time you just need to plan and set against the current so your traps are landing on the spot and not behind it
 
Sounds to me like your in line 10lb could be sinking quicker than the traps and pulling them by the bridle upside down to the bottom ?

I weight each trap and then tie a knot in the line roughly 20’ from the last trap, I set my traps and once I feel them land I then clip on a weight on a carabiner and let this slide down until It hits the knot. Works great every time you just need to plan and set against the current so your traps are landing on the spot and not behind it
I tried the slide down weight thing once and the line twisted and pulled my buoy down. Was using a small buoy then. Been scared to do it since.
 
You have to hold on and feel the weight slide down and hit the knot

If you just throw everything over it will end up a twisted disaster. And if someone pulls your gear and throws it back out it it will be a huge mess
 
I have a buddy that only fishes his traps small side down and swears thats the best way.
He gets loads of prawns so it does work .
He had them custom made with spikes welded to a cross bar to punch holes in the cat food cans
Works pretty slick
 
I have a buddy that only fishes his traps small side down and swears thats the best way.
He gets loads of prawns so it does work .
He had them custom made with spikes welded to a cross bar to punch holes in the cat food cans
Works pretty slick
Huh. Sounds cool. I think some traps the doors are more centered then it wouldn't matter. I guess if they can get in and they have a reason to stick around they will. Some of the areas around Vancouver see lots of rec pressure and your presentation needs to shine.
 
The holes on his traps are closest to the small end (in his case bottom)of the trap. His theory is ,the prawns can find the holes easier ?
Seem to work but id like to run them both ways on the same lines to test the theory .
 
The holes on his traps are closest to the small end (in his case bottom)of the trap. His theory is ,the prawns can find the holes easier ?
Seem to work but id like to run them both ways on the same lines to test the theory .
I wonder if he's saying it's "his method" by default lol. Perhaps he had the same issues I'm having. ;)
 
15lbs anchor - 30ft clip on trap ,another 20 ft clip on trap. 20-30 ft clip on 10lbs weight ... once u drop of last anchor give it a pull. Always set with the wind, and moving . Thats how i was thought and it works!
 
I thread gillnet lead line around the the bottom ring of my traps and never have an issue
 
I thread gillnet lead line around the the bottom ring of my traps and never have an issue
 
I run 18" square mesh not the round ones, I have a run of 3/8" chain zip-tied around all 4 sides on the inside. Then a 10lb cannonball 50' from the last trap, let down while going forward at idle following the contour line, never paid attention to wind or current.
 
Gillnet line? Is that just like a thick leaded line?[/QUOTE
It's about the size of 1/2" rope, PNT Probably sells it new but with commercial fishing just about finished there's lots around used. I gillnetted as a kid before my seining and long lining career but got a bunch of lead line from my brother who just retired a few years ago
 
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