Cope Design - Cortes Island 30 Build

Well I finally have some pics to show you of the beast finally under construction. It'll start coming together nice now that the jig is all set up and gtg. Cutting Edge just landed a couple really experience fabricators from Coastal Craft so I'm in really good hands. I'll start getting weekly updates now :D.

WW
 

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Nice build! Btw, I have the 175hw chirp transducer mounted through the hull with proper isolation in my 28’ tinny and I never lose depth reading at any speed. Keep it as far back and close to centerline as possible and be very mindful of hull disturbances upstream. I can see bait and fish marks on plane as well.
 
Hey guys,

Updates are a bit slow, our trip to Haida last week took a lot of work to prepare for and to be honest the frustration of posting pictures on this forum absolutely drives me crazy. I'm a pretty tech savvy guy and in order to post a pic from an iphone I have to download it from the icloud, import it into Adobe Elements and resave it with a low resolution...grrr. Anyway, his is from LAST week so I'm behind but there is some good progress. You can definitely see how much structure Cope puts into the hull design. I think this boat will ride like a dream.

I've been thinking about downrigger placement. What are your thoughts on where and how far back on towards the transom the rigger should be? I've seen a minority of boats that place them forward a few feet so that you can more easily work them. Here is an example of what I'm talking about:


I will have the Scotty Pro downriggers and always have the booms extended all the way to help deal with the current in CR. I'm trying to figure out if moving them forward will make it more or less likely to get caught by the kicker. In relation to the kicker, I'll have twin 300's with the kicker offset to the port side.

Cheers,

WW
 

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I’d definitely place the downriggers about 18” - 24” ahead of the transom. I like being able to step just aft of the downrigger when rigging up gear or fight a fish, and think it would be a major PITA to always be trying to work them from the fore side. That’s where we have ours mounted (Pursuit OS 3070) and I’ve never had an issue with them encountering the props, and I don’t usually have mine fully extended unless we’re fishing off the Fraser (note that I don’t have a kicker). I think it’s more likely the lines will rub on the hull if your in strong current.

Always wondered if the track mounts popular on the Great Lakes would work out here. I don’t think they use as much weight out there which makes me leery. Wouldn’t want be the west coast guinea pig...

I mentioned before, but check out the Burnewiin mount system. You could start right at the back corner, and then every ~3’. Could place them exactly where you want and give you the option of adding another pair of downriggers in the future.
 
I’d have four spots and four plugins. Two on the back corners and the other two up towards the middle of your deck. Way better then stacking. The two up the sides extended out and the two on the back corners going straight back.
 
I had Silver Streak adjust the placement of my downrigger mounts so the pulley (30" booms) hangs an inch past the rear of the transom when they're swung back. Cannonball holders on the pod deck directly underneath makes it very quick and easy to transition from trolling to running or landing a fish and back again. Opened up more room on the sides too for traps to come over etc.
 
Another update, very much taking shape! Almost looks like a boat now. After looking hard at that Burnewiin system, I'm sure it will make its way onto my boat. With Burnewiin, I don't think that I'll need to have that downrigger plate integrated into the rails as most boats do so that'll save some money in fabrication and will leave a cleaner look with more versatility. I love the rod holders that are similar to the Scotty Orca's. I had a chance to try them at the Edmonton Boat Show and they are the bomb! Way more robust than the Scotty's and are much less likely to fail. I've had the Orca's pop open when they shouldn't have and have nearly lost rods with them.
 

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I’d have four spots and four plugins. Two on the back corners and the other two up towards the middle of your deck. Way better then stacking. The two up the sides extended out and the two on the back corners going straight back.
Ya that's a great idea. I could see myself running 2 riggers on the starboard side opposite the kicker and 1 on the kicker side. We have so much current in Campbell River, running 4 riggers would be a definite challenge.
 
Question for @Waterwolf2230

Are you sourcing and buying all the equipment (electronics, seats, lights, plumbing, etc) and having the builder install or are those options that the builder provided and you have chosen?

Looks like a fun project.

Like building a house except you don’t have to agree on anything with the wife :rolleyes:
 
I’m basically getting the boat fabricated until lockup (all windows and doors in). Then I’ll be hauling it home to start the process of putting it together. It’ll be full custom and I’m sourcing everything myself. I’ve got a good idea how I want things but am still on the fence with a few things.
 
Further to my previous comment, I've really appreciated the comments and suggestions so far so please keep them coming. There is a hell of a lot of great experience here on the forum that I just love tapping into.
 
That's $22K USD for the product (seakeeper 2). The install is over top of that and would not be cheap (although would be much cheaper for new builds I would think). They are also coming out with a seakeeper 1 for even small boats (around 25' or so) next year I believe.

The biggest benefit I see with this product is that it helps reduce the every present tradeoff of "Smooth Ride VS Stability" that every boat owner deals with. Those nice chop cutting hulls typically have more roll issues due to deeper V, etc. whereas those chop slappling boats are generally much more stable while trolling/at anchor. By adding a seakeeper to a deeper V nice riding hull you could really cut back on the side to side roll and have the best of both worlds... in theory... and for $30,000+ :)

They do look like they're for real, but have you seen the maintenance schedule on these? That'd be my biggest concern. https://seakeeper.com/wp-content/up...uled_Maintenance_Plan-Recreational_Line-1.pdf
 
Here's the thing about SeaKeepers that most rec boaters don't take into account... The SeaKeeper 2 (their smallest one listed on their website) is 414 pounds and $22,700 USD before installation. Add another $10,000 for installation if your boat is not already set up to receive it with in place stringer mounts etc.

So you're looking at $22,700 USD = $22,700 x 1.35 = $30,645.00 plus $10,000 install = $40,645.00.

Add 414 pounds somewhere in the boat - that's the equivalent of about 70 gallons of gasoline... on a 30 foot boat a mass of 70 gallons of gasoline is most surely significant and noticeable.

Now look at the run time spec for the SeaKeeper 2 - it's 300W-650W DC once up and running... at 12V that's 25 amps to 54 amps. a 9.9 kicker or a 15hp kicker puts out what? 6-12 amps? Total. To run all your electronics, down riggers, etc.

Even if you were to run one main engine of 250hp or so, at the 600-700rpm we are trolling at you are only putting out 20-30A and most of that is used by the motor for the fuel injection and ignition needs... At and above 1500rpm you maybe putting out 50-70A but again a good chunk goes to just operating that motor.

You want to run that SeaKeeper for a ten hour day when fishing off a kicker? Might as well add another 300 pounds of batteries to the boat... more space gone and more horsepower needed for cruising...

I just can't seem to make it make sense unless you already have an AC generator and big diesel power to overcome the extra mass of the SeaKeeper and the power required to run it. And even then you're adding $40,000 to the price of your boat... For a 30' sport fish, $40,000 is a lot of money....
 
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