Switching to an Anchor Ring from Anchor Lift

Use a threaded (locking) carabiner to attach to the scotsman to the ring. I had one of the normal carabiners open up in a stiff SE wind down at Magdelina and had to pull the anchor by hand and then run about 1 mile in the wrong direction to get my scotsman back. Once was enough.
Thanks for that tip,Pro.I had heard that the regular carabiners have a way of opening sometimes and what you just said confirms it.I'll be switching all my snaps to locking ones now for sure.
 
Pic as stated. Not sure why 2? View attachment 44888 View attachment 44888 Rope on left top is 600 ft I piece no knots to a shackle same size as 1 in pic. All that matters is it cannot pass thru the shackle on bottom of ball. With a full pull, shackle at chain hits ball for visual and wire hooks slide thru, then when slack in line hooks grab shackle and hold anchor under ball. Second wire is a safety for the first. Rope to bow goes on same top end shackle. Absolutely safe, works every time, costs less than all the other stuff people are using, all that's needed is to re tape the wires every couple years. They are stainless welding rod so the 10 I got 30 years ago are still in use.

HM
That looks interesting halimark.So you've never had one of those stainless rods damage or puncture the ball when running through?
 
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Stops at shackle, chain does not run thru on mine. Replace large chain/rode shackle to smaller and it would run thru and stop at anchor, I just find it a pain to pull all chain back thru to reset. I just poke the rods back thru ball shackle and its ready to redeploy.

HM
 
I have 1 600ft of rode, no knots, links, shackles nothing but smooth rope. The reason is what you said, "probably" pass thru. I have been **** scared anchoring, when I was young and dumb, go out on any tide/current, watched an A4 go straight under and down from bow 80ft when I made a mistake on East Race current, sat on stern for 3 hrs to scared to move as bow was inches above water in a very fast current. Lost a few years that day I think. Sorry if there is any probably I am NOT doing it. I will post pic of the stainless rods tomorrow in daylight. Its so easy/simple I cant believe fishermen pay lots of $$ for the slider things and rings. Benny should have sold the idea 35 years ago when he showed all who wanted to learn. In the early years with no A4,5 balls, we used a 5 gl gas tank. How times have changed.

I don't like the rope down the boat as I have seen to many boats sideways to the pull. Furthest point away from boat under stress is in middle of boat, not a good place to have current pull from. Its the what ifs, motor dies during pull, wind, current change, beer, marijuana, lack of concentration. All could sink you. Not a dream, lots of boats gone down anchoring for hali in JDF.

HM
So rather than pulling from the mid ship cleat,where do you pull from?Not the stern I would think?
 
Pic as stated. Not sure why 2? View attachment 44888 View attachment 44888 Rope on left top is 600 ft I piece no knots to a shackle same size as 1 in pic. All that matters is it cannot pass thru the shackle on bottom of ball. With a full pull, shackle at chain hits ball for visual and wire hooks slide thru, then when slack in line hooks grab shackle and hold anchor under ball. Second wire is a safety for the first. Rope to bow goes on same top end shackle. Absolutely safe, works every time, costs less than all the other stuff people are using, all that's needed is to re tape the wires every couple years. They are stainless welding rod so the 10 I got 30 years ago are still in use.

HM

Doesn't the advantage of the ring system over yours come from retrievability? With the 2 rings system, if you have to cut the boat free in an emergency or just to avoid one, the Scotsman stays attached to the anchor and you can retrieve it later once the currents have eased off. Unless I am missing something, if you have to cut yours, the Scotsman floats away and your anchor rode heads for the bottom.
 
I pull from bow, rope goes on side gunnel to stern, bow line is attached on center cleat (within easy reach) but goes forward thru bow eyelet, if anchor hard to bottom or anything happens, log ahead, kelp, another boat, or any reason to come of power, the pull immediately turns and pulls from bow. I never want to be stern or midship to current. I always have my 2 very sharp knives handy also.

HM
 
Doesn't the advantage of the ring system over yours come from retrievability? With the 2 rings system, if you have to cut the boat free in an emergency or just to avoid one, the Scotsman stays attached to the anchor and you can retrieve it later once the currents have eased off. Unless I am missing something, if you have to cut yours, the Scotsman floats away and your anchor rode heads for the bottom.
You are missing something. I let go off anchor regularly, chase a big one, do a drift, check something out (whales) or get after a bait ball. My boat is still tied to my anchor system as other are, rope comes to boat goes thru the bow anchor guide, then on deck to a soft eye on midship cleat. I have a mid point white float, when I let go, just lift the soft eye of cleat and drop in water. Pull from boat slips back of anchor. To come back drive up pick up rope, place in bow anchor guide and place soft eye back on cleat. I do not loose 30 ft chain, 600 ft Sampson braid rode and 100 ft bow to ball Sampson line at any time. Must say stowing all my gear is easier than when we fish a buddy's boat with rings, clips and extra pieces of rope on ball. There are many ways to anchor, I just like mine seams simpler.

HM
 
You are missing something. I let go off anchor regularly, chase a big one, do a drift, check something out (whales) or get after a bait ball. My boat is still tied to my anchor system as other are, rope comes to boat goes thru the bow anchor guide, then on deck to a soft eye on midship cleat. I have a mid point white float, when I let go, just lift the soft eye of cleat and drop in water. Pull from boat slips back of anchor. To come back drive up pick up rope, place in bow anchor guide and place soft eye back on cleat. I do not loose 30 ft chain, 600 ft Sampson braid rode and 100 ft bow to ball Sampson line at any time. Must say stowing all my gear is easier than when we fish a buddy's boat with rings, clips and extra pieces of rope on ball. There are many ways to anchor, I just like mine seams simpler.

HM

You hadn't mentioned the white float before. That's what saves your system if you let it go or cut it free. Other than the short line from the A5 to the ring, your system is not very different from the ring system. The only other (minor) difference is you don't use a bow to stern line to let the rode slide.
 
My A5 holds up anchor, shackle on end of rode hits shackle on A5 ball and will not pass thru. Both anchor rode and rope to boat connect to that shackle. My white fender just floats the boat to anchor rope in front of boat and gives a spot to gaff when re hooking on anchor. Yes anchoring systems are very alike, was using mine before any store sold them, I think cheaper, easier to deploy and pull. Most important point is to stay alert when anchoring and use a safe system. Years ago I seen boats tied stern first to the Race green can. Not allowed to tie there anymore. Now every one has an anchor, been along time since anyone asked to tie to my stern.

HM
 
I have always used a Scotty anchor puller with no issues. I used to use a ring but found the odd time my chain would have a small knot and not pass through the ring...thus having the anchor fall back down.
 
Oh the good old days. I can remember one time I saw 4 boats all tied to the can all in one long row. I always thought how crazy is that.
 
Knots in the chain/rope are usually caused by paying out your anchor to fast. the chain falls faster then the anchor. But yes it will be hard to pass though the ring.
 
Oh the good old days. I can remember one time I saw 4 boats all tied to the can all in one long row. I always thought how crazy is that.
Just 4 boats? Remember some days of over a dozen, remember being out at 4 am to get first spot. 168 ft deep there, seamed to be more hali right behind can. Also remember having 6-8 boats tied to stern on my 16 ft tinny, then seeing the transom being stretched/ripped back. Holly **** let every one drift NOW. Always tied others to a line I had down side of boat after that repair. Many times some ones rope snapped and created a panic. Ooh the good old days. First boat on can, first ever hali, 63 lbs, skinny 18 yr old kid from Ont with biggest dam fish I had ever seen. Awesome memories in BC. Love it.

HM
 
Does anyone rig their anchor this way. This set up seems to be easy and safe.
I would probably go with a ring instead of the break mechanism

 
Does anyone rig their anchor this way. This set up seems to be easy and safe.
I would probably go with a ring instead of the break mechanism

This is basically how it's done,and as you said,big rock, minus the brake mechanism using the ring instead.This allows for you to add extensions if you want to fish deeper waters and still get your 2 to 1 scope on your rode.
 
Always interesting to hear how folks do it.

I have yet to find a reason not to use my Scotty puller (the one-way pulley kind). Coupled with 600 feet of line that I keep in a river bag, slide it on the side bridle with the emergency detach clip, I have yet to have any problems or reason to change (knock on wood). Anchor in 100 fow, just pay out 200 feet, chuck the ball over and stash the rest of the rode in the bag. 300 fow pay out the full rode. Need to detach, pull the clip, chuck the bag in the drink and you're off. Only one piece of rode, no rings, pretty simple and easy to store. I'm not an expert by any means, just works for me. YMMV,

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Always interesting to hear how folks do it.

I have yet to find a reason not to use my Scotty puller (the one-way pulley kind). Coupled with 600 feet of line that I keep in a river bag, slide it on the side bridle with the emergency detach clip, I have yet to have any problems or reason to change (knock on wood). Anchor in 100 fow, just pay out 200 feet, chuck the ball over and stash the rest of the rode in the bag. 300 fow pay out the full rode. Need to detach, pull the clip, chuck the bag in the drink and you're off. Only one piece of rode, no rings, pretty simple and easy to store. I'm not an expert by any means, just works for me. YMMV,

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Both ring and anchor puller systems are very good and each has slight advantages over the other. For me, the ring system means I’m not lifting the anchor along with the 40 feet of chain after pulling in all the line. The anchor is suspended under the ball and it gets lifted after my chain has been pulled into the boat. I like that.
 
Always interesting to hear how folks do it.

I have yet to find a reason not to use my Scotty puller (the one-way pulley kind). Coupled with 600 feet of line that I keep in a river bag, slide it on the side bridle with the emergency detach clip, I have yet to have any problems or reason to change (knock on wood). Anchor in 100 fow, just pay out 200 feet, chuck the ball over and stash the rest of the rode in the bag. 300 fow pay out the full rode. Need to detach, pull the clip, chuck the bag in the drink and you're off. Only one piece of rode, no rings, pretty simple and easy to store. I'm not an expert by any means, just works for me. YMMV,

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I'm also no expert LOL

Just curious what stops the extra rode from pulling out of the bag if you only need 200 feet line(as per your example)
 
Good question. . .wish I had a picture. So I pay out the 200 ft from the bag, tie a quick loop knot in the rode, pop on a carabiner into the loop, which then clips onto a 5" st/st ring (the ring slides on the side bridle). I let the ring wander up the bridle to the bow and let the anchor set, then leave the other 400 ft of line in the bag (it has an integrated cleat, and you cleat hitch it). So when something happens (good or bad!), pop the emergency clip, chuck the bag overboard, side bridle runs out the side and off the bow, 5" ring, clip and bag are all attached to the ball. Float away to deal with good or bad. Lately I've added a small scotchman to the bag, just to make retrieval even easier, but that's a luxury. Hopefully that makes sense. For me the bag is key:
http://www.chinookoutdoorgear.com/products/AnchorRopeBag.php

But some of these other guys have been doing it a lot longer than me, so they're probably onto something too.

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