Trailer bearing failure

scott craven

Well-Known Member
Had a bearing failure on the weekend.
always seems to happen after trailer sits for a period of time.
Hub and studs are very rusty.
Do you guys typically repair an old hub or replace the whole assembly ?
 
Did you spin a bearing? How does the spindle look? I'm guessing you're running drums on this trailer? If that's the case it's worth doing a conversion over to disk brakes. There is no way possible, even with the flush kits, to keep drum brakes from premature failure due to corrosion. If you do plan on going with drums again, it's far easier and close to the same cost to buy a whole new backing plate assembly and drums. Lots of times the bearing failure is due to overheating from a hung up pad.
 
Had a bearing failure on the weekend.
always seems to happen after trailer sits for a period of time.
Hub and studs are very rusty.
Do you guys typically repair an old hub or replace the whole assembly ?

You let it sit too long :)

I replace the hub when it get bad. Scott next time it sits just redo them. I do mine 2-3 times a year but I am covering long distances, and I can't take the chance. Basically do it Jan, and just before summer and then fall. If it failed to check that spindle, or you will eb chasing a demon for years. Any pitting or scrapes it won't seal right.
 
Was everyone/everything ok ?that can be a mess on axel ends. Bearings should be cleaned every year, inspected and repacked .Replace the hub if you see wear on the on the bearing or race or wheel studs. I would replace hub because inexpencive , no need to reset a new race if a bearing failure ,easyer to remember age of bearings and the wheel will come off hub if you get a flat .ps ,always install a new properly fitting cotter pin.
 
Thanks for the help, it's an older road runner.
No brakes, but I think the spindle has been burned as it tends to eat bearings.
I'll replace the hub and then order a new trailer.
Tired of fixing old stuff !
 
I had a trailer that went though a couple inner bearings on drivers side after I resetting a new inner race .
 
There going to be lots of discrepancy on this but doesn't changes the facts.
A spindle has to be in very bad shape in order for it to effect the bearing. The inner bearing race does not turn on the spindle it sits stationary, unless the spindle is worn badly because the bearing failed and it spun on the spindle. You can tell this by simply sliding the bearing over the spindle and give it a spin and wiggle it and see if there's any play in it. If you have proper tension set on your bearings the bearing will be seated on the spindle and not turn. Same goes for the hub, the hub has nothing to do with the bearing it simply holds the outer race, change the race its new. Unless the hub is warped from extensive heat but very unlikely. Anybody that pulls their bearings apart 3 or 4 times a year is doing something wrong. I would say in the case of your trailer eating bearings your doing something wrong your either over tightening or under greasing the bearings a new trailer won't stop this if you continue to service it wrong. You should be changing all the races and seals every time you pull it apart. If you keep your bearings greased properly there's no need to change bearings more than every 3 or 4 years. I haul my boats many miles a year, I drag mine 1400km one way every summer out to the coast and hundreds of miles down gravel roads and mud every summer and would never think about changing bearings more than every 3 or 4 years. If the tension is set properly and they are kept full of grease no contamination can get into them. I don't care if it's salt water, dust or fresh water, if it's full of grease nothing can get into it. I have never in 30 years of owning a boat on a trailer had a bearing failure, not once.

Now flame away lol.
 
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on the old boat trailer the seals were blown, two pumps of grease into the bearing buddies on each side before each trip and never had a bearing go or the the axle seize. Drove it around for 10 years with blown seals

I was pretty embarrassed when someone told me your aren't supposed to pump grease into them until it comes out.
 
on the old boat trailer the seals were blown, two pumps of grease into the bearing buddies on each side before each trip and never had a bearing go or the the axle seize. Drove it around for 10 years with blown seals

I was pretty embarrassed when someone told me your aren't supposed to pump grease into them until it comes out.

In your case where the seals are failed it doesn't really matter your better off to grease until it comes out, at least you know it's full and clean. Most seals are designed to stop intrusion from the outside if they are put in right and it doesn't effect them a whole lot if grease is coming out of them. But again so what if the grease does come out, you know it's full and it's clean grease and if they are full they are full nothing else will fit into them.

People over think things and listen to to many mechanics that are in the business of selling their parts and time.
 
I would say in the case of your trailer eating bearings your doing something wrong your either over tightening or under greasing the bearings a new trailer won't stop this if you continue to service it wrong. You should be changing all the races and seals every time you pull it apart.

Nope, only one side is problematic
and all seals and races changed each time.
Not sure how you couldn't change the seals as they
are pretty much roached in order to get the bearings out.
 
It's rare to be able to get one out with out hooping it that's for sure.
 
The best way I found to save the seal is remove outer bearing and retaining washer ,thread nut back on and pull the wheel hub assembly toward yourself sharply and nut will stop at inner bearing and bearing will pop the seal out.
 
Scott craven

Highliner trailer in delta is an excellent place to buy your trailer parts!! They have the right seals where the inner seal rotated around the shaft instead of the whole seal moving at once. When I switched to these life got a lot better. They are a little more monry but well worth it you just need to know your Inside diameter of seal or diameter of shaft.
The problem with trailers is people pull their boat out in the fall and don’t do the preventative maintenance till spring or tow in the spring only to have a melt down. When you take your boat out in the fall the salt gets in the bearings and parts it literally eats your bearings all winter and spring till you tow it.
A smart thing to do is to service your trailer brakes and bearings gs in the fall after you have taken the boat out for the last time. It then will sit all winter on fresh grease and no salt. You are now good to tow come April without any issues. I service mine every end of oct and have no problems what so ever. Been doing this for about 4 yrs now absolutely problem free.

Tight lines
Billydoo
 
all the new seals, bearings hubs etc. will be for naught if the area of the spindle wear the seal runs is pitted , grooved or in any way compromised. Installing a stainless steel speedi-sleeve, along with a new double lipped seal will give the best chance of eliminating water intrusion from the inner seal area.
 
all the new seals, bearings hubs etc. will be for naught if the area of the spindle wear the seal runs is pitted , grooved or in any way compromised. Installing a stainless steel speedi-sleeve, along with a new double lipped seal will give the best chance of eliminating water intrusion from the inner seal area.
Totally agree with this,I installed speedi-sleeves on an older trailer with worn axles and it made a huge difference.Not cheap though.
 
With all the talk about bearing maintenance I decided to check on mine today. Normally I jack it up and check for play in bearings every couple of months and add a few shots of grease in the bearing buddies while spinning the wheels. Found no play in the bearings but found that one of the brake pads (disc) has separated from it's backing plate so it's just floating around in there and will have to be replaced. I haven't pulled it off yet (tomorrows job) but was wondering if this is common?? Not sure if the pads are riveted to the backing plate and rivets just corroded away or there are other reasons why this would happen. 50% pad still remaining. Brakes and bearings are about 2 years old and I normally dunk the trailer twice a week on average in the summer and once a week during winter months and wash everything with fresh water when I get home.
 
I bought the 1-1/16" hub kit complete with bearings for about $60
much easier fix than trying to set races and bearings in a rusty old hub.
spindle is compromised , but should last till I get the new trailer.
 
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