Halilogger
Active Member
Don't know if you read any of my prior post C.S, but I'm running turning point props aluminum and am very happy........$140
Propeller Performance
- Thread starter Halilogger
- Start date
TheBigGuy
Well-Known Member
Well I took my boat out with the new aluminum 4 blade Solas Rubex 17P prop on for a test run today. It was a beautiful calm day so I thought I better go out before the weather turns nasty again. Again, I was surprised by these Solas props. By all rights this prop should have spun at lower RPM's and speed than the same 3 blade prop. Instead it spun at 6100-6200 RPM, compared to 5800 for the three blade. My tac only gives numbers to 6000, because that is what the motor red lines at. But it does read over 6000, so I'd say it was in the 61-6200 area. I didn't hit the rev limiter whicn kicks in about 6400 RPM (I believe). I topped out at 43 MPH, which is the same top speed as the other props I have tried. I was the only passenger in this trial with the 4 blade, with the 3 blade my wife was along for the ride.
I preferred the ride at cruising speed with the 3 blade Solas, as it seemed much smoother cutting the waves. However, the 4 blade Solas was a much nicer ride at top speed. At top speed the 4 blade could be trimmed up somewhat without a real bad porpoising situation occurring. The boat felt much safer to operate at top speed with the new 4 blade Solas Rubex. Now if I could only find a prop that combined the great handling at cruising speed of the 3 blade with the better handling at top speed of the 4 blade.
The search continues for the perfect prop. Stainless blades are far too expensive to start experimenting with brand new blades, so I have been keeping my eyes open for used ones. I have been checking out the boating forums for recommendations for props on similar engine & boat configurations as mine. With the dollar almost at par, props can be found on ebay at very reasonable prices in the states. I found a stainless prop this weekend for only $65 plus $10 shipping. Seemed to be in very good shape by the looks of the pictures, hopefully it is as nice as the pictures appeared. It is a 3 blade Michigan Wheel Rapture 17P. This prop was discontinued, but still is advertised new for over $350 US. So hopefully I have found myself a good deal. The Rapture seemed to be highly recommended for my motor, so I'm hoping for the best when it arrives.
I'll keep you informed about the next trial, when that prop arrives.
I preferred the ride at cruising speed with the 3 blade Solas, as it seemed much smoother cutting the waves. However, the 4 blade Solas was a much nicer ride at top speed. At top speed the 4 blade could be trimmed up somewhat without a real bad porpoising situation occurring. The boat felt much safer to operate at top speed with the new 4 blade Solas Rubex. Now if I could only find a prop that combined the great handling at cruising speed of the 3 blade with the better handling at top speed of the 4 blade.
The search continues for the perfect prop. Stainless blades are far too expensive to start experimenting with brand new blades, so I have been keeping my eyes open for used ones. I have been checking out the boating forums for recommendations for props on similar engine & boat configurations as mine. With the dollar almost at par, props can be found on ebay at very reasonable prices in the states. I found a stainless prop this weekend for only $65 plus $10 shipping. Seemed to be in very good shape by the looks of the pictures, hopefully it is as nice as the pictures appeared. It is a 3 blade Michigan Wheel Rapture 17P. This prop was discontinued, but still is advertised new for over $350 US. So hopefully I have found myself a good deal. The Rapture seemed to be highly recommended for my motor, so I'm hoping for the best when it arrives.
I'll keep you informed about the next trial, when that prop arrives.
Halilogger
Active Member
Whats the cupping and the rake like on those props?
TheBigGuy
Well-Known Member
Hi Halilogger.
The Solas Amita/Rubex aluminun props have a fair bit of cupping. It is designed to be a stern lifting prop, so it is not heavily raked. A high amount of rake results in bow lift, not what I was looking for.
Are you running the Turning Point Hustler aluminum prop Hali? I hear they are a very highly recommended prop for an aluminum prop.
If anyone has a 17P prop in a 13 or so inch size designed for an intermediate size motor perhaps we could swap props for testing purposes. I have a Mercury Trophy Plus 13 3/4 X 17P stainless I'm not using right now. It doesn't seem to ride well on my boat. This prop uses the FlowTorq II interchangeable hub system. With the right hub kit it will work on most 75-125 HP motors. If you have a 17P that doesn't quite ride right on your boat, perhaps we can swap props. If either one likes the others prop we could talk price or swap depending on the test results. I own a 2005 Merc 115 HP 4 stroke.
The info for my prop from the Merc wesite is as follows:
Trophy Plus
Price : $489.00
Looking to increase power and harness the performance of your bass, flats or sport boat? Trophy Plus is the answer. Its four-blade stainless steel design provides unbelievable bow lift and quick planning. And it holds better in tight turns, reduces steering torque so you gain better handling and confidenceon the water.
- For outboards 75 hp and up
- Small exhaust tube allows increased venting for V-6 outboards (if over-venting occurs try 878421 seal ring)
Improved handling over 3-blade propellers
- Reduced steering loads
- Increased top speed for lightweight bass boats
- R/H 17" - 28" pitch
- PVS-equipped
- Equipped with Flo-Torq II hub system
48-825930A46 Right Diameter - 13 3/4 Pitch - 17
The Solas Amita/Rubex aluminun props have a fair bit of cupping. It is designed to be a stern lifting prop, so it is not heavily raked. A high amount of rake results in bow lift, not what I was looking for.
Are you running the Turning Point Hustler aluminum prop Hali? I hear they are a very highly recommended prop for an aluminum prop.
If anyone has a 17P prop in a 13 or so inch size designed for an intermediate size motor perhaps we could swap props for testing purposes. I have a Mercury Trophy Plus 13 3/4 X 17P stainless I'm not using right now. It doesn't seem to ride well on my boat. This prop uses the FlowTorq II interchangeable hub system. With the right hub kit it will work on most 75-125 HP motors. If you have a 17P that doesn't quite ride right on your boat, perhaps we can swap props. If either one likes the others prop we could talk price or swap depending on the test results. I own a 2005 Merc 115 HP 4 stroke.
The info for my prop from the Merc wesite is as follows:
Trophy Plus
Price : $489.00
Looking to increase power and harness the performance of your bass, flats or sport boat? Trophy Plus is the answer. Its four-blade stainless steel design provides unbelievable bow lift and quick planning. And it holds better in tight turns, reduces steering torque so you gain better handling and confidenceon the water.
- For outboards 75 hp and up
- Small exhaust tube allows increased venting for V-6 outboards (if over-venting occurs try 878421 seal ring)
Improved handling over 3-blade propellers
- Reduced steering loads
- Increased top speed for lightweight bass boats
- R/H 17" - 28" pitch
- PVS-equipped
- Equipped with Flo-Torq II hub system
48-825930A46 Right Diameter - 13 3/4 Pitch - 17
Halilogger
Active Member
Ya I think it"s the Hustler any way very happy with the prop>
TheBigGuy
Well-Known Member
I was very happy when the Rapture prop arrived as it was in perfect condition, almost hard to tell from brand new. Not a nick or scratch on it, I'm really starting to love ebay. I finally got a chance to take the boat out with the 13 1/4 x 17P stainless Michigan Wheel Rapture on for a test run. I was very impressed with this prop on the boat. Good holeshot, nice ride at cruising speeds, and the ride at max speed was the best of any prop I've tried so far. With the Rapture on I could travel full out without any bad porpoising issues, and it was a pleasure too drive (not scary like with all the other props at full speed). She did 43mph at about 5800-5900 RPM, exactly the rpm range that I was looking for.
Looks like I lucked out on my first try with buying a replacement stainless prop. The Rapture definitely is a good match for my boat and motor combination. So if you have a similar intermediate size four stroke (115 HP) on a comparable size aluminum boat (18 ft), the Rapture may be a prop worth considering.
I may take my 4 blade Merc Trophy Plus to a good prop shop to have them try and improve it's performance on my boat. I'm thinking that adding cupping to the trailing edge should give it more stern lift. I may have them reduce the diameter a little to compensate for the added pitch. I don't want to lower the props RPM's as it's turning in the perfect range now. Curiously the Merc Trophy + props are 13 3/4 inches in diameter, when most every other 17P prop for my motor is 13 1/4 in size. So I figure it could probably take having a little diameter shaved off without affecting it drastically.
I have a couple of questions for the guys on the forum. Who do you trust with your propeller repairs and alterations in the lower mainland?
Also, after reading the American forums for info on propellers it became apparent that using a jack plate to change the motors set back, transom height, and trim adjustment is pretty common down there. I rarely ever see a jack plate on a boat in these parts. Is that because our saltwater environment is too tough on a jack plate? Or is it just another case of differences between our countries, like our mooching reels vs their coffee grinder reels ? Does anyone on the forum have experience using a jack plate on their boat in the chuck?
Recent advantages in outboard technology have made choosing the correct propeller for your boat both easier and more difficult--easier because the number of choices has doubled, and harder, for the same reason. Propeller manufacturers have been busy developing new 3-blade and 4-blade products and size ranges of stainless steel propellers to meet a growing number of hull types and horsepower ranges, especially for 4-stroke engines.
Four-stroke engines are designed to run at very specific RPMs, so pitch sizes have become available in 1 inch increments and new designs have appeared, each more tailored to a specific hull type and application. Propellers with higher rake angles and some with more surface area have been developed to maximize the power delivery of the 4-stroke torque curve.
Needs
The two most important things to remember in choosing a propeller are that it meet your individual needs for your individual application and that it allow the engine(s) to run within the specified RPM range at full throttle. Each boater and fisherman is trying to meet his requirements, but they can vary a lot.
What’s important to you and the way you fish: Top Speed, Cruising Speed, Hole Shot, Load Carrying, Slow-Speed Handling, Slow Trolling, Fast Trolling? Two identical boats with identical engines could be propped quite differently, depending on the usage, water conditions, and load. There is no such thing as the best or ideal prop for all applications of a similar nature. Acceleration may be compromised for top speed and fuel economy, and visa versa. Often times, there may be 6 or 8 different props that seem to run about the same, with differences so subtle that any of them could be considered satisfactory by most standards. This just makes it that much harder to make a decision and choose the right prop.
The purpose of this article is not to explain propeller theory or hydrodynamics, but rather to point out the various options in the market place and set some common rules of thumb. It will confine itself to the discussion of 3 and 4 blade stainless steels props as these are the most common in the real world.
Three Blades or Four?
In general, 3- blade props are the most common. They are available in wide size ranges and cost less than 4-blades. They typically yield a slightly higher top end speed than 4-blades. They are available in a wider variety of designs and offer more left hand rotation pitch options for twin counter-rotating engine applications.
Four-blades have some features of their own, though. They often provide more lift at the stern which will help accelerate the hull, especially if it is stern heavy. They come out of the hole strong and work well for pulling skiers and water toys. In fishing and offshore boats, they are oftentimes slightly faster than 3-blades at mid-range rpm’s, where coastal anglers most often run their engines. They also deliver slightly better fuel economy at mid-range rpm. Oftentimes, a poor-handling boat will improve by switching to a 4-blade propeller, and more often than not, a 4-blade will run smoother with better balance than the 3-blade equivalent.
A 4-blade propeller will usually have a smaller diameter for the same pitch size of the 3-blade equivalent. This is one reason they spin up quickly and yield good acceleration. The blades are often a bit smaller but offer more total blade area because of the additional blade, so they have more grip on the water. When switching from a 3-blade prop to a 4-blade, you’ll usually need to decrease the pitch by 1 or 2 inches to keep the engine RPM in the same range.
Propeller Size
Propellers are sized and described by their diameter and pitch. A propeller listed as a 15 ¼ x 17 x 3 would indicate a 17 inch pitch, 3 blade propeller having a diameter of 15 ¼ inches. Pitch is the theoretical distance that the boat will move forward with each revolution of the prop shaft, minus the slippage. The pitch ultimately is responsible for the top speed of the boat, much like the main jet in a carburetor is responsible for the ultimate power and speed of an engine.
The pitch must be matched to the engine’s recommended rpm range for full throttle. For most engines, this top range is about 500 to1000 rpm (typically 5,000-5,500 for 2-strokes, 5,000-6,000 for 4-strokes). A light boat and load will pull a high numerical pitch prop, whereas a heavy boat and load would have to run a smaller numerical pitch to load the engine less and allow the engine to reach recommended full throttle rpm. Keep in mind that most propeller manufacturers design their pitch in a progressive manner, to the point that the actual pitch will vary across the blade surface. Also, keep in mind that different propeller manufacturers each measure their pitch in slightly different ways with different tolerances. This means that two propellers of the same diameter and pitch from two different companies can yield different performance data.
For anglers slow-trolling for species like rockfish and flounder, a propeller with lower pitch (less distance per turn) that still allows the engine to rev to the top of its range will offer lower trolling speeds. It will also push loads easier and make maneuvering around a dock easier. On the other hand, a prop with more pitch that lets the engine turn to the lower end of its range may yield higher top speed.
Hooking-Up with the Water
There are other dynamics that come into play as the boat accelerates to its top speed. When it’s sitting still in the water and the skipper advances the throttle(s), the diameter and surface area of the prop develop the initial static thrust and launch the boat. As the hull gains momentum and speed, the dynamic thrust now is largely influenced by the prop’s ability to connect itself to the water and hook-up without cavitating or ventilating.
Cavitation is loss of hook-up due to the water literally boiling, caused by extreme low pressure near or at the blade surface or blade edge. Ventilation is a loss of hook-up due to the introduction of air or exhaust gases around the propeller. Basic blade design and diameter can affect these problems. If the diameter is too small for instance, it can cause cavitation. If the engine is mounted too high, it can cause ventilation. Both of these phenomena can be minimized by installing the correct prop. Going to a larger diameter or switching to a 4-blade can sometimes accomplish better hook-up. Larger diameter propellers usually yield better maneuverability as they push a larger volume of water on initial rotation, especially at slow speed. They also grab more water for better control when reversing. Matching the diameter and pitch for a given load and application gives the best performance for a specific boat.
Another design concept, called cupping, can also come into play here. Cupping means curling the trailing edge of the blade slightly to better grab water as it comes off of the blade face. This facilitates hook-up, but it can also load the engine more, much as adding pitch does. Different series of props have different amounts of cup in them. It is not uncommon today to have props with cupping added to the tip area of the blade to minimize tip losses and maximize efficiency.
Vented props are available with an exhaust relief hole at the base of each blade. These holes can range from ¼ inch to approximately 3/8 inches in diameter. They allow exhaust gases to escape around the propeller as it begins to spin up on acceleration. The engine gains rpm more quickly and reaches its ideal power curve sooner to improve overall acceleration. These props, however, do not work well for fishermen who do a lot of slow trolling, as the boat never gains enough speed to leave the ventilated water, causing the prop to catch-and-release, making the boat surge. Vented props also do not work well with cat hulls.
Matching style, blade design, pitch, and diameter is just as important for boat handling and safety as for maximizing cruising speed and fuel efficiencies. Large diameter props with lots of surface area help a boat climb a big wave and allow the operator to maintain good control in offshore conditions with rough water. Again, good-hook up is essential without overloading the engine and prop to the point of causing cavitation.
Conclusion
If you can find a prop that seems to feel good and run with confidence, don’t be discouraged if it’s off by a little bit in ideal engine rpm. Any competent prop shop can fine-tune and tweak a good prop to make it perfect for your application. Adding or removing pitch up to 1 inch is not uncommon. Adding or removing cupping is also a standard adjustment. It is nearly impossible to find the right prop without going through a dedicated session of trial and error. With so many styles, designs and options in the market today, there is much to be gained by simply trying as many props as you can. It is important to do any comparative analysis between props in the exact same water conditions as each other, so that you can actually come away with usable data.
Each of us has unique desires and requirements for our propeller choices. They should always be matched to a particular hull, load and usage. My personal desire is to find a prop that I consider to be well balanced. By that, I mean one that handles well, yields average mid-range and top speeds, with no quirkiness or negative traits. I am always willing to sacrifice top speed to achieve good all-round performance, as I run wide open no more than 10% of the time, due to water conditions, comfort level and passenger security.
Four-stroke engines are designed to run at very specific RPMs, so pitch sizes have become available in 1 inch increments and new designs have appeared, each more tailored to a specific hull type and application. Propellers with higher rake angles and some with more surface area have been developed to maximize the power delivery of the 4-stroke torque curve.
Needs
The two most important things to remember in choosing a propeller are that it meet your individual needs for your individual application and that it allow the engine(s) to run within the specified RPM range at full throttle. Each boater and fisherman is trying to meet his requirements, but they can vary a lot.
What’s important to you and the way you fish: Top Speed, Cruising Speed, Hole Shot, Load Carrying, Slow-Speed Handling, Slow Trolling, Fast Trolling? Two identical boats with identical engines could be propped quite differently, depending on the usage, water conditions, and load. There is no such thing as the best or ideal prop for all applications of a similar nature. Acceleration may be compromised for top speed and fuel economy, and visa versa. Often times, there may be 6 or 8 different props that seem to run about the same, with differences so subtle that any of them could be considered satisfactory by most standards. This just makes it that much harder to make a decision and choose the right prop.
The purpose of this article is not to explain propeller theory or hydrodynamics, but rather to point out the various options in the market place and set some common rules of thumb. It will confine itself to the discussion of 3 and 4 blade stainless steels props as these are the most common in the real world.
Three Blades or Four?
In general, 3- blade props are the most common. They are available in wide size ranges and cost less than 4-blades. They typically yield a slightly higher top end speed than 4-blades. They are available in a wider variety of designs and offer more left hand rotation pitch options for twin counter-rotating engine applications.
Four-blades have some features of their own, though. They often provide more lift at the stern which will help accelerate the hull, especially if it is stern heavy. They come out of the hole strong and work well for pulling skiers and water toys. In fishing and offshore boats, they are oftentimes slightly faster than 3-blades at mid-range rpm’s, where coastal anglers most often run their engines. They also deliver slightly better fuel economy at mid-range rpm. Oftentimes, a poor-handling boat will improve by switching to a 4-blade propeller, and more often than not, a 4-blade will run smoother with better balance than the 3-blade equivalent.
A 4-blade propeller will usually have a smaller diameter for the same pitch size of the 3-blade equivalent. This is one reason they spin up quickly and yield good acceleration. The blades are often a bit smaller but offer more total blade area because of the additional blade, so they have more grip on the water. When switching from a 3-blade prop to a 4-blade, you’ll usually need to decrease the pitch by 1 or 2 inches to keep the engine RPM in the same range.
Propeller Size
Propellers are sized and described by their diameter and pitch. A propeller listed as a 15 ¼ x 17 x 3 would indicate a 17 inch pitch, 3 blade propeller having a diameter of 15 ¼ inches. Pitch is the theoretical distance that the boat will move forward with each revolution of the prop shaft, minus the slippage. The pitch ultimately is responsible for the top speed of the boat, much like the main jet in a carburetor is responsible for the ultimate power and speed of an engine.
The pitch must be matched to the engine’s recommended rpm range for full throttle. For most engines, this top range is about 500 to1000 rpm (typically 5,000-5,500 for 2-strokes, 5,000-6,000 for 4-strokes). A light boat and load will pull a high numerical pitch prop, whereas a heavy boat and load would have to run a smaller numerical pitch to load the engine less and allow the engine to reach recommended full throttle rpm. Keep in mind that most propeller manufacturers design their pitch in a progressive manner, to the point that the actual pitch will vary across the blade surface. Also, keep in mind that different propeller manufacturers each measure their pitch in slightly different ways with different tolerances. This means that two propellers of the same diameter and pitch from two different companies can yield different performance data.
For anglers slow-trolling for species like rockfish and flounder, a propeller with lower pitch (less distance per turn) that still allows the engine to rev to the top of its range will offer lower trolling speeds. It will also push loads easier and make maneuvering around a dock easier. On the other hand, a prop with more pitch that lets the engine turn to the lower end of its range may yield higher top speed.
Hooking-Up with the Water
There are other dynamics that come into play as the boat accelerates to its top speed. When it’s sitting still in the water and the skipper advances the throttle(s), the diameter and surface area of the prop develop the initial static thrust and launch the boat. As the hull gains momentum and speed, the dynamic thrust now is largely influenced by the prop’s ability to connect itself to the water and hook-up without cavitating or ventilating.
Cavitation is loss of hook-up due to the water literally boiling, caused by extreme low pressure near or at the blade surface or blade edge. Ventilation is a loss of hook-up due to the introduction of air or exhaust gases around the propeller. Basic blade design and diameter can affect these problems. If the diameter is too small for instance, it can cause cavitation. If the engine is mounted too high, it can cause ventilation. Both of these phenomena can be minimized by installing the correct prop. Going to a larger diameter or switching to a 4-blade can sometimes accomplish better hook-up. Larger diameter propellers usually yield better maneuverability as they push a larger volume of water on initial rotation, especially at slow speed. They also grab more water for better control when reversing. Matching the diameter and pitch for a given load and application gives the best performance for a specific boat.
Another design concept, called cupping, can also come into play here. Cupping means curling the trailing edge of the blade slightly to better grab water as it comes off of the blade face. This facilitates hook-up, but it can also load the engine more, much as adding pitch does. Different series of props have different amounts of cup in them. It is not uncommon today to have props with cupping added to the tip area of the blade to minimize tip losses and maximize efficiency.
Vented props are available with an exhaust relief hole at the base of each blade. These holes can range from ¼ inch to approximately 3/8 inches in diameter. They allow exhaust gases to escape around the propeller as it begins to spin up on acceleration. The engine gains rpm more quickly and reaches its ideal power curve sooner to improve overall acceleration. These props, however, do not work well for fishermen who do a lot of slow trolling, as the boat never gains enough speed to leave the ventilated water, causing the prop to catch-and-release, making the boat surge. Vented props also do not work well with cat hulls.
Matching style, blade design, pitch, and diameter is just as important for boat handling and safety as for maximizing cruising speed and fuel efficiencies. Large diameter props with lots of surface area help a boat climb a big wave and allow the operator to maintain good control in offshore conditions with rough water. Again, good-hook up is essential without overloading the engine and prop to the point of causing cavitation.
Conclusion
If you can find a prop that seems to feel good and run with confidence, don’t be discouraged if it’s off by a little bit in ideal engine rpm. Any competent prop shop can fine-tune and tweak a good prop to make it perfect for your application. Adding or removing pitch up to 1 inch is not uncommon. Adding or removing cupping is also a standard adjustment. It is nearly impossible to find the right prop without going through a dedicated session of trial and error. With so many styles, designs and options in the market today, there is much to be gained by simply trying as many props as you can. It is important to do any comparative analysis between props in the exact same water conditions as each other, so that you can actually come away with usable data.
Each of us has unique desires and requirements for our propeller choices. They should always be matched to a particular hull, load and usage. My personal desire is to find a prop that I consider to be well balanced. By that, I mean one that handles well, yields average mid-range and top speeds, with no quirkiness or negative traits. I am always willing to sacrifice top speed to achieve good all-round performance, as I run wide open no more than 10% of the time, due to water conditions, comfort level and passenger security.
TheBigGuy
Well-Known Member
Tried out a new prop and thought I'd report the results. I traded my 4 blade 17P Mercury Trophy prop for a like new 15P Solas 3 blade stainless prop. I'm not sure exactly which model of Solas propeller it is, as it doesn't have any identifying numbers on it. I think it is probably the Saturn model of prop from Solas.
I knew this was a little under propped when I traded for it, but I was intending to use this prop for water sports so that was fine with me. The low pitch gave awesome holeshot, which was perfect for skiing. The boat handled really well with this prop. No porpoising issues, like with the four blade Merc Trophy prop. Great cornering and high speed handling on my 18ft Harbercraft with a 115HP Merc 4 stroke. The only downside to using this prop would be the fuel consumption would be a little high as it is turning higher RPM's at cruising speed. It turned in a top speed of 39 MPH with the RPM's over 6200. My tach only registers to 6000, so this prop spins a little over my recommended RPM range of 6000 max. It didn't hit the rev limiter so it wasn't spinning too high for engine damage. I lost a little in top speed from the 43 MPH the boat will reach with a 17P prop. Overall I was extremely happy with this prop. It will be an excellent prop for water sports. Again I found the Solas props to be great for use on my boat both in aluminum and stainless.
The guy I traded props with is located in Maple Ridge and does prop repairs. He advertises on Craigslist and seemed to do nice work. He repaired a stainless Stiletto Advantage prop I picked up on ebay with minor damage. This Stiletto prop only cost me $35 on ebay so it was another steal at that price. It looked brand new after he finished with it. So I would recommend him, if you are looking for a cheap used prop or for prop repairs.
http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/pml/boa/2363121213.html
I knew this was a little under propped when I traded for it, but I was intending to use this prop for water sports so that was fine with me. The low pitch gave awesome holeshot, which was perfect for skiing. The boat handled really well with this prop. No porpoising issues, like with the four blade Merc Trophy prop. Great cornering and high speed handling on my 18ft Harbercraft with a 115HP Merc 4 stroke. The only downside to using this prop would be the fuel consumption would be a little high as it is turning higher RPM's at cruising speed. It turned in a top speed of 39 MPH with the RPM's over 6200. My tach only registers to 6000, so this prop spins a little over my recommended RPM range of 6000 max. It didn't hit the rev limiter so it wasn't spinning too high for engine damage. I lost a little in top speed from the 43 MPH the boat will reach with a 17P prop. Overall I was extremely happy with this prop. It will be an excellent prop for water sports. Again I found the Solas props to be great for use on my boat both in aluminum and stainless.
The guy I traded props with is located in Maple Ridge and does prop repairs. He advertises on Craigslist and seemed to do nice work. He repaired a stainless Stiletto Advantage prop I picked up on ebay with minor damage. This Stiletto prop only cost me $35 on ebay so it was another steal at that price. It looked brand new after he finished with it. So I would recommend him, if you are looking for a cheap used prop or for prop repairs.
http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/pml/boa/2363121213.html
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