Another breakdown

Clean threads, anaerobic flange sealant, green lock title or the right stuff on threads. Don't need a washer, bolt like in pick above perfect. Your just trying to stop oil migrating down threads. If you use a nylon washer you are going to have to rely on locktite to ensure the bolt won't back out and the lock tite would probably stop the oil before it got to the washer anyway.

You said rollerized heads, roller cam, roller rockers or both?
Roller cams are awesome, if you have a flat tappet cam use a zinc additive in your oil to reduce cam lobe wear. All oil company's have significantly reduced zinc levels. Many people feel synthetic oils should not be used with flat tappet cams as there is so little friction lifters won't turn and will flatten lobes sending metal throughout the engine.

My opinion roller lifters in marine, I bought two sets of stainless roller rockers, installed one set on a 350 in the Porsche and the other in a 454 in my ski boat. Sold the Porsche after 7 years used seasonally just like boat, ran up over 6000 rpm often and they were fine however the set in the boat came apart after the third season at 5000 rpm. Corrosion looks like the reason they came apart and probably only 60 hours on them. Went with ball fulcrum roller tipped comp cam rockers because they were about the same price as Oem.

Or these are a really cool product!
 

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The hole below has a regular bolt holding the pump braket on, not even a lock washer. I was thinking bolt with threadtape?
 
Clean threads, anaerobic flange sealant, green lock title or the right stuff on threads. Don't need a washer, bolt like in pick above perfect. Your just trying to stop oil migrating down threads. If you use a nylon washer you are going to have to rely on locktite to ensure the bolt won't back out and the lock tite would probably stop the oil before it got to the washer anyway.

You said rollerized heads, roller cam, roller rockers or both?
Roller cams are awesome, if you have a flat tappet cam use a zinc additive in your oil to reduce cam lobe wear. All oil company's have significantly reduced zinc levels. Many people feel synthetic oils should not be used with flat tappet cams as there is so little friction lifters won't turn and will flatten lobes sending metal throughout the engine.

My opinion roller lifters in marine, I bought two sets of stainless roller rockers, installed one set on a 350 in the Porsche and the other in a 454 in my ski boat. Sold the Porsche after 7 years used seasonally just like boat, ran up over 6000 rpm often and they were fine however the set in the boat came apart after the third season at 5000 rpm. Corrosion looks like the reason they came apart and probably only 60 hours on them. Went with ball fulcrum roller tipped comp cam rockers because they were about the same price as Oem.

Or these are a really cool product!
Roller rockers, not the cam.
 
Teflon tape is designed to lubricate pipe thread going into pipe thread. It was not designed as a sealant.
Just use any decent sealant, it just goes into the crankcase, not an oil passage so no pressure. Chevy didn't seal the bolt from the factory and over years maby some oil weep. The bolt below doesn't go into the crankcase, it is a blind hole.
 
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Teflon tape is designed to lubricate pipe thread going into pipe thread. It was not designed as a sealant.
Just use any decent sealant, it just goes into the crankcase, not an oil passage so no pressure. Chevy didn't seal the bolt from the factory and over years maby some oil weep. The bolt below doesn't go into the crankcase, it is a blind hole.
Ok, thanks.
 
Man I feel your pain so much, I went through the exact same thing a few years back in my 1990 searay which is when I got rid of my inboard.
My bildge filled with oil as well and it ended up being a head gasket on a brand new rebuilt engine, I was pissed. Good luck and I hope you find the issue
 
Many components on an engine are bronze or brass and don't seem to pose much problem. ie look at most raw water pumps that bolt to the block... or many sensors...(coolant, oil pressure, etc...) The injectors use a bronze washer to seal in the head and bronze washers on the fuel lines...
Most of the sensors on my marine engine (cummins diesel) are brass (bronze?) and use a bronze washer to seal and come from the factory like that. but thread sealant should also work and help as well. Myself, I would do both if if I had a concern about leaking oil...
 
Or these are a really cool product!

was thinking of those also... used alot on my engine... mostly around the injector fuel lines and banjo fittings. really cheap to purchase on ebay...
 
Couldn't find a brassplug that wasn't a pipethread so used a black allenhead bolt with hightemp threadsealand. Had to grind the upper corner of the bracket to get the bolt in, mabe thats why they left it out. Ran her up in the driveway, no more leak awsome! Couple more test runs and hopefully get out for fathersday and be able to make some reports instead of just reading them! Cheers guys and thanks for the help.
 
Makes you wonder what some people's idea of what a complete rebuild is doesn't it.

Sure hope you have the issues firgured out on this one, it's nerve racking dealing with the little things. On top of that the water is no place to be having break downs.

Best of luck on this one bulkyjack.
 
bronze washer and steel block? Invitation for corrosion? Not sure myself, just asking. I think I would stick with Nylon.

One of the features which makes bronze useful in marine applications is it's galvanic similarity to iron. While not ideal, it won't have a Corrosion rate nearly as high as aluminum or other typical mixed metal issues.

Sr Corrosion technologist
 
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