Freaking Barnacles; Any Tricks to Remove?

[profisher]

I've used caustic cleaners on the fiberglass before and while it doesn't harm the fiberglass it does remove all the wax from the surface. The wax that comes with any new boat sprayed with gelcoat. Once that wax is removed you will get that yellowing/staining of the gelcoat at an accelerated rate. To the point where it is almost impossible to keep up with it if you moor for any length of time. It doesn't hurt anything but doesn't look as good as it should. I do use muriatic acid on stainless trim tabs, to clean zincs, etc....I wear rubber gloves and brush it on with a cheap paint brush I can throw away afterwards.

[Dave S]

Hey guys, I can appreciated the desire to keep your boats looking and running great. But what has to be considered when using toxic and harmful chemicals is the effects it will have on the local waters and ecosystem. As far as I know, BC has some pretty outdated and barbaric storm sewer systems, and with no filtering in place, it all will eventually end up in a local stream, lake, river, or oceans.

[Foxsea]

Hey guys, I can appreciated the desire to keep your boats looking and running great. But what has to be considered when using toxic and harmful chemicals is the effects it will have on the local waters and ecosystem. As far as I know, BC has some pretty outdated and barbaric storm sewer systems, and with no filtering in place, it all will eventually end up in a local stream, lake, river, or oceans.

Great consideration, Dave. HCL is neutralized as soon as it his a concrete storm drain (very common), a benched manhole or lime-bearing soil. If used, it should be used in small quantitites. Actually better enviro-wise, than the high phosphate cleaners (TSP).

[Dave S]

Great consideration, Dave. HCL is neutralized as soon as it his a concrete storm drain (very common), a benched manhole or lime-bearing soil. If used, it should be used in small quantitites. Actually better enviro-wise, than the high phosphate cleaners (TSP).

I have trouble believing that such a toxic substance is neutralized just by flowing over concrete into storm drain. For every gallon of hcl used, you'd need 5 lbs of a neutralizing agent like baking soda to make it non toxic. Just have trouble with the assumption that all this toxic waste will neutralize from contact with concrete. I mean you can use it to clean concrete so it must not neutralize that easily.
Would you water your veggie garden with the run off from an hcl application? Just want folks to think before they use.

[Theb55]

Now you know why those big old sailing boats sat in river mouths for months. Fresh water, the natural way. I now people who take their boat into Langford Lake for a few days and voila. No salt water marine growth.

[Fisher Down]

Now you know why those big old sailing boats sat in river mouths for months. Fresh water, the natural way. I now people who take their boat into Langford Lake for a few days and voila. No salt water marine growth.

Hmmmm... What do I want to do?
1. Scrub my hull with HCL ; or
2. Park my boat in a lake .

F D

[Foxsea]

Just have trouble with the assumption that all this toxic waste will neutralize from contact with concrete. I mean you can use it to clean concrete so it must not neutralize that easily.

Dave, please...
Before we get too carried away: HCL = gastric (stomach) acid. Heartburn? Use baking soda or calcium carbonate (TUMs for your tummy = limestone) to neutralize it... or concrete or barnacles will, as well.

I doubt that anyone would need a gallon to clean a few barnacles (25:1 = 4 gallons in use) - more likely 250 ml. Most is neutralized by the calcium carbonate in the barnacle shells (removing them) and any residue, by contact with concrete, CaCo3 in the soil, etc. - it's chemistry not speculation. The neutralization by-products are water and CO2. Give it a try, then to quell your concerns, use a ph test strip (for a pool or spa) to check that the residue is neutralized prior to release. BTW, where does the chlorine-contaminated, drained spa water go? Likely a much bigger issue for our fish.

But it's sure good by me to go to the lake for a few days.

[Dave S]

Dave, please...
Before we get too carried away: HCL = gastric (stomach) acid. Heartburn? Use baking soda or calcium carbonate (TUMs for your tummy = limestone) to neutralize it... or concrete or barnacles will, as well.

I doubt that anyone would need a gallon to clean a few barnacles (25:1 = 4 gallons in use) - more likely 250 ml. Most is neutralized by the calcium carbonate in the barnacle shells (removing them) and any residue, by contact with concrete, CaCo3 in the soil, etc. - it's chemistry not speculation. The neutralization by-products are water and CO2. Give it a try, then to quell your concerns, use a ph test strip (for a pool or spa) to check that the residue is neutralized prior to release. BTW, where does the chlorine-contaminated, drained spa water go? Likely a much bigger issue for our fish.

But it's sure good by me to go to the lake for a few days.

Alright Foxsea, if you think it's a good idea to flush muriatic acid into our drains ie: streams, rivers, lakes, oceans in confidence that it has all been neutralized from enough contact with concrete, barnacles, lime in soil,etc.....have at er. I just like to play it cautious when it come to feeding our waters with chemicals.

Does chlorinated spa water actually get poured down our drains? That sounds awfully irresponsible for anyone to do. Is that even legal?

[Foxsea]

Alright Foxsea, if you think it's a good idea to flush muriatic acid into our drains ie: streams, rivers, lakes, oceans in confidence that it has all been neutralized from enough contact with concrete, barnacles, lime in soil,etc.....have at er. Does chlorinated spa water actually get poured down our drains? That sounds awfully irresponsible for anyone to do. Is that even legal?

Thanks Dave. I agree that we should be cautious however, a small point: I do not recall saying that "...it's a good idea to flush muriatic acid into our drains." That may be happening at industrial facilities though. What I did say was to use a test strip to provide assurance before draining, as is recommended below*.

Another bigger fish to fry:
Spa and pool water is regularly discharged, directly or indirectly to storm drains. It should be neutralized but do you recall ever seeing chlorine or bromine neutralizer on the shelf at Canadian Tire for the DIYer? A responsible spa service company likely will neutralize but do you know anyone that polices this?

* Correct procedure for disposal of pool or spa waste water (a very dilute bleach solution) to sanitary sewer sytems:
1. If the municipal authority grants permission, you can discharge pool backwash water, pool and spa cleaning wastewater and standing water to the sanitary sewer system.

Neutralize water before discharge by following these steps:
a) Prior to disposal of pool water to a sanitary sewer, shut off the chlorination or brominating system or stop adding chemicals.
b) Hold the water in the pool or hot tub for at least two weeks to allow the chlorine or bromine to dissipate.
c) Measure the levels in the pool or hot tub prior to discharging the water. The water should not show any detectable levels of chlorine or bromine.
A longer holding period may be necessary if levels continue to remain at detectable. Analysis can be done with a chlorine test kit (colorimetric).

Reality prevails - the above is not likely to happen.
FYI: I did actually test a 30% muriatic solution on my concrete driveway. 5 pumps of a small spray bottle on an area 60 X 60 cm., then lightly rinsed with water. The ph = 7.5 after 5 minutes. No drainage - all dissipated by evaporation. I suspect if this was done with barnacles the results would be similar.