I'll add my 2-bits, but I'm also not in your class of angler... No boat.
I charter on sometimes, but mostly I shorefish, about 4x week... I have a ton of braids vs mono experience on "coffee-grinders", mooching, trolling and baitcast reels from size 05 lo-pros to Abu 7000's, and one Alvey side-caster.
I love good mono lines for casting best of all. But, on spinning reels, braids are #1 due to the line twist imparted by the bail and choice of lure. If you're mooching, and spinning your herring/anchovy on a spinning reel, using mono... big PITA. Same jigging bottom where your jigs spin or twist, like buzz bombs or leadheads... Use braids. It takes an awful lot of twist to get a pigtail.
I can just get 300' on a 1 1/2oz lure, casting with braids, and I use 30#, 50# & 65#, in several brands & in braid & fused type.
On my 6600 C5 with 25# Excalibre or Gamma mono, I'm about another 25'-40' on the cast, same lure, same rods. About the same with a Curado300, lighter rod & 15# Maxima and 1 oz.
I like the braids for their strength pulling out of a snag by straightening or breaking the hooks, but that's murder on the drags, hands and gets big spool dig.
Down-rigging, pound for pound blow-back is far-reduced. But you won't put 30# Stealth on your 4000GT mooching reel because you can't hold the line in your clip unless you're using vicegrips because the line is 0.009" diameter and slippery. You'll use 65#-80# and blowback will approximate 20-25# mono.
Use the Albright to tie to mono leader. You have almost no chance of cut-off knots due to the braid cutting the mono... Or, tie a doubled uni knot for the braid to terminal gear. I'm fond of the doubled uni to terminal gear because you increase the surface area inside the knot, 100% knot strength and no chance of screwing up as you can (I know, rarely) with a palomar... Knot strength isn't a big concern for trollers though, unless you hang bottom a lot. (as I, shore-bound do..a lot!)
Trolling with deep dive plugs, using 20#-50# braids, for those fish (coho) in the top 30' will get your plug down fast if you stick with poundage equivalent, 20#-30# test. These lines do not surf like mono tends to do. But, you have to use a modestly-soft rod like a trolling rod (not downrigger rod), or a dipsey-diver rod with either a mild drag-set or shock leader, say 20' of mono to keep from ripping the lips off your fish. If you're pulling shallow weighted hootchies or flies, steelhead gear with braids is great. Just when shallow trolling don't set the hook or you may hook it foul. Wait for a real strike.
Braids are super for mooching because of the sensitivity on soft bites (especially using a bait-feed spinning reel), and if you're sticking to tensile equivalents, really, unless you're using bright yellow, the visibility of green 0.009" 30# TuffLine is pretty slight.
For spool dig, let your line out to the dug-in bit, pull out the dig, reel-up & start fishing. I have to throw a soft lob-cast to get to that spot. If I don't, and power-cast any weight over 1/2oz on any line under 65#, I snap-off my lure. That's a bigger waste of time than first throwing the soft cast & fixing. Spool dig is a lot less deep than might happen on your mooching reels because it's rare to perfectly wrap the line on the arbour, usually you get some overlapping.
But, I've also dug-in 25# mono a few times & learned the hard, expensive way to lob a cast after every big snag.
Tip-wrap. This is a big deal because most braids get really soft after you use them a bit. After you blow a couple tips off, you develope the habit of checking before casting...Or, when you let out line on your downrigger & it doesn't flow well, you get the clue. That is a lot easier and quicker to do for you trollers than for me, the caster & jigger. Again, I can tip-wrap mono periodically, usually the middle guides, so checking every cast is required for me regardless the line.
I get far less tip wrap with FireLine and Stren MicroFuse than with other braids because it's a fused line and stiffer... Which is why some don't like it. I do. It also digs less than same## test of braids. Two things, it only comes to 30# test, but it's also thicker.. 0.014", about 50% thicker than 30# TuffLine.. Which some also don't appreciate. I do.
I'm just now trying a new WesternFilament line called DuraTuff (same guys as TuffLine), which is again, thicker than TuffLine by 30%-50%, but also has an added coating and filaments which keep the line stiffer. Regrettably, max 30# test.
Stiffer means or should mean less tip wrap. Hopefully it also means less spool dig. I'll soon find out if the patter is true after I use it for a few weeks.
Still, the habit of checking is best.
Because I use braids on one mooching reel, and like someone said you won't want to stack that much $$$ braid on your arbour, and, on some heavily-used reels, backing with mono can warp or break your spool due to its' Chinese-Puzzle/Python habit of tightening every time the line dries.. I've taped my arbour with double-side tape and build-up the arbour with 1/8" cheap dacron cord. You still get 300 yds of 65# braid on and have a good 3/4 inch clearance from the rim. Mind you, were I a guide using Islanders, my clients may not be impressed as they can see the cord through the drying holes.
You can use dacron to back your braids, but it's not that cheap either, you need a lot of it, and if you're going to do that, may as well go dacron all the way. It's thinner than equivalent mono, cheaper than braid, and as far as visibility... What about that steel cable & lead ball? Then, you top-shot with a bit of mono if you wish for shock.
As far as getting the swivel to work, really, you're tying your flasher upstream to a mono leader maybe 40# clear mono, or direct to braid, with a 100# ballbearing swivel, and you're clipping maybe up to 30' which means above (mainline upstream) won't be getting any twist, you add a terminal swivel to the flasher, tie your leader hook & bait. So twist ought not to be any great problem, and your swivels will still be working their magic, unless you're tearing around at 8-10 knots.
With my very modest boating experience, and a fair amount of casting experience, my meagre opinion, for what it's worth to trollers, is braids are best for many apps, great on some, good on others, poor on a few and almost mandatory on spinning reels, but I still love mono where I can best use it... And, my mono-choices are brand/model specific to certain lures, reels, applications & rods and would conflict with many others' flavour favourites.
So, my very short, only slightly encyclopedic treatise on braids comes to an end. As sang the Moody Blues... "Another day's useless energy spent..."