Yamaha corrosion issue back in the news---boats us --oct/nov 2012---not pretty!

Sharphooks

Well-Known Member
http://www.boatus.com/magazine/2012/october/Yamaha-F225-Corrosion-Complaints.asp



Anyone with a Yamaha F225 bracketed by model years 2000 - 2004 might want to get the LU inspected when they have a chance.

Some guys over on THT are saying the corrosion issue is more widespread---200's, 225's and 250's.

It's worth reading if you're running blue off your stern


http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/455120-yamaha-f225-corrosion-article.html

I'm blown away that Yamaha is reacting to this issue the way they have (as in----no reaction)---they're acting like Poster Children for what NOT to do in business.
 
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Some Yamaha motors have had exhaust corrosions issues known for years although what is new is the revelation that some of their larger very expensive motors have had such severe and expensive damage (not really worth the cost of repair in some cases) in as little as 400 hours of service life.

I love the older Yamaha 9.9’s 4 strokes and have one and they are great motors but what can kill them is corrosion on the exhaust/leg casing which makes them not worth repairing. I have seen some with welded aluminum patches over the outer casing by people trying to fix this problem on otherwise good motors where the casing has actually been perforated by corrosion (look for corrosion perforation), although I suspect they have a lot of hours on them. Great motors but if you are buying one used this is something to look for and may require removing the leg or possibly a bore scope. The exhaust on mine is good.

Sometimes they will run fine with exhaust leaks with the cowling off but will not run well for any period of time with the cowling on. So be cautious of one you have only seen run for a short period of time with the cowling off. The other things to look for are good compression, not smoking especially on start up when it has not been run for a few days or not easy starting when cold or has not been started for a few days. (get a little suspicious if they have run the motor just before you get there) and not a lot of frothy oil in previously clean water after it has been run for a while and revved in a tub or at the dock (4 – stroke). You cannot really tell this with ear muffs.

Finally from recent experience; check the plugs and make sure the motor is not making oil (gas getting into the oil over a few days and being forced out the dip stick when you remove it although this problem is fixable and can be caused by a number of things such as a pin hole in the fuel pump diaphragm, bad float valve, bad thermostat (motor does not get to sufficient operating temp to seal the rings) etc. PS If it has new plugs and oil it may run great for a day or 3 until it “makes oil”, builds up pressure and fouls out the plugs. I would be a little suspicious of new plugs and motor oil. This can be only a very temporary quick fix to the oil making problem.
 
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This problem cannot affect all Yamaha big blocks-BRS is selling his right now with 2000 hrs so there is some hope for those of us with the bad years! Having said that if I have to re-power after an early corrosion failure (it won't be from lack of flushing on my part-salt away even) I will not re-power with Yamaha because of the shoddy treatment of their customers when there should have been a full re-call for a known engineering defect!
 
Out of curiosity I plugged suzuki into google and started to look thru reviews of that outboard(DF 300). It would appear that Suzuki has as many disatisfied owners as Yamaha for premature failures and lack of help or warrenty from the parent company. What the answer is I really can't say but we as consumers appear to be mincemeat for these 2 companies and doing your homework seems to not be enough these days to get a product that the company will stand behind!!
 
Best Piece of Writing I've seen on This Issue-- logical, well written, and if nothing else, food for thought

(Thanks in advance to Kerno O. of Maui/So.Cal for contributing this to a Public Forum)

QUOTE

Having owned two sets of Yamaha 225's, I've looked at the problem and wondered why it happens to some, but not all engines. All four of mine were about perfect, but I've seen others with far less hours that were very bad. The design of the engines is not a lot different from all other outboards, yet Yamaha has the worst problem. Here's what I think I know about the problem:

The exhaust on the engines passes from the powerhead down through the lower unit and out the center of the prop. The oil pan is right below the powerhead and is a casting which is kind of donut shaped and the exhaust passes through the center of it. That's why if the corrosion gets too bad, it eats into the oil pan. The exhaust passage is a lot like the exhaust pipe on a car - no cooling water passes through it, but since it ultimately exits through the prop, the exhaust passage is exposed to splashed salt water, especially if the engines are mounted low and the boat is sitting in choppy water. As the stern bobs up and down in the slop, salt water can splash up the exhaust. But as soon as the engine is started, the water is dried right out. As a result, you might expect the corrosion to be worse at the bottom of the exhaust system. But it is not. Also, the outside of the housing is exposed to salt water, yet seems to hold up just fine.

It is usually much worse at the top, especially around the pan. To me, the only thing that can trigger it is a combination of high heat and excess acidity in the exhaust which is eating the aluminum. High heat comes from running lean mixtures, something that improves mileage and mets emissions requirements. The repair kits come with parts that have completely different coatings than the original parts, so they are more corrosion resistant. But, why do some engines have the problem and others do not. Why does it make no difference if you muff flush them, hose flush them or not flush them at all?

Here's my guess. I think Yamaha used multiple suppliers for the castings or the casting material. Many alloys of aluminum contain zinc, which is very subject to corrosion. I sell a lot of aluminum scrap and in spite of my best efforts to have my guys keep the high zinc scrap separated from the low zinc, they do get mixed. If someone will send me a piece of a corroded exhaust housing, I'll be happy to give it to a lab and find out how much zinc is in the aluminum. The ideal amount in a marine application is zero. Another answer may be that the engines with a problem are running leaner than they should be either as a result of programming, restricted fuel or injectors which are not quite up to flow spec.

UNQUOTE
 
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I've been told by Yamaha mechanics that it is a wet exhaust and it is a combination of heat, acidity, and sea water. Sea water apparently does come in contact with the area up high that is affected.
 
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