Winterizing Questions - Boat in Water

[TenMile]

Hey guys,

This is the first year I am going to be leaving my boat in the water over the winter months. What do you guys around the Victoria area with I/O's do to winterize your engine (or do you do anything). I plan to use the boat weather permitting every 1-2 weeks.

My boat has a Mercruiser 5.7 MPI Horizon. It's relatively simple to drain the manifold etc... but I am wondering if it's worth the while doing it when the water in our area stays relatively warm. What do others do?

 

[Gone Fishen]

First off if there's creeks and lots of fresh water in your marina draining is more critical. If the temp is going to be freezing it's very important you be shure your entire raw water circuit is drained. (oil & power steering coolers,cool fuel, heat exchanger, manifolds,(if raw water cooled), Risers always, hoses ect. Im assuming you have fresh water cooling. If you have an intake water shutoff after draining its good to shut it off so waves won't push water back in. Another way which is probably safer and somtimes more realistic than completely draining, is drain what you can then remove the water intake hose at transom or wherever is accesable before the rawwater pump(usualy have to make up a extension) put the end of the hose into a five gallon bucket of rv antifreeze and run it through. Don't forget to test your engine antifreeze. If your marina is straight salt water(no fresh)your probably ok with temp above -7%c If fresh water wouldn't chance anything below 0%c. Hope this helps.
Oh Ya Don't forget to drain and antifreeze your domestic system if you have one.

I'm setting priorities & making time for fishing.

 

[salmonkiller01]

I always use 2 trouble lights in my engine bay, put one on each side of the motor close to the manifolds. Keeps moisture at bay and keeps the temp above freezing.

 

[Charlie]

Keep a light on in the engine compartment to keep the moisture out and the engine’s fresh water cooling system from freezing, if you have a fresh water cooling system? Make sure the light/lights are secure… don’t let them fall or touch anything like a water hose, they will burn anything they touch, including your fiberglass.

A small heater in the cabin does wonders.

Drain your fresh water system and make sure your fresh water pump and water lines don’t freeze. If you drain your system leave your facet/valve open. I highly recommend RV water system antifreeze for your fresh water system. It is a not a pretty site when you fill you water tank (after you replace your frozen water pump) and you see all the leaks show up everywhere! Been there… done that, twice!

If you are going to use the boat you don’t have to worry about fogging it. Just make sure you start it and run it up to operating temperature, preferably once a week. Turn on all your electronics and leave them on while running your boat, including your radar. If your engine sets for a few months without running (and without fogged), prepare yourself for a valve job next spring. That will run you about $2,500! Been there… done that, too!

Now… lastly! Go out and buy some rat poison and/or traps! They love nice warm boats! And they love to chew on all that nice tasty electrical wiring you have on board!

 

[Charlie]

Oh... forgot!

Spray anything and everything that will corrode down with WD40, including your engine and pumps.

Find your Electronic Control Module (ECM), it is attached to the back of your distributor… and make sure you keep the top of it dry! If you let water set on top of the ECM it will seep in through the top seal and you will eventually find yourself dead in the water! I have been down that road, also!

How did your zinc problem work out?
Charlie

 

[Gone Fishen]

Just wan't to coment on the lights in the engine compartment. If you do this alone keap a close eye on the thermometer. It works great, I do it myself, but I also drain the raw water. In a real cold snap which does occure in this country on occasion the lights alone will cost you thousands in repairs do to freezing. Iv'e seen lots of people be there & do that.
Should also mentine power outages, seen lots of them to.
I'm setting priorities & making time for fishing.

 

[Charlie]

quote:Originally posted by Gone Fishen

Just wan't to coment on the lights in the engine compartment. If you do this alone keap a close eye on the thermometer. It works great, I do it myself, but I also drain the raw water. In a real cold snap which does occure in this country on occasion the lights alone will cost you thousands in repairs do to freezing. Iv'e seen lots of people be there & do that.
Should also mentine power outages, seen lots of them to.
I'm setting priorities & making time for fishing.

I agree... like the one we are having right now. That usually happens when things are above the water line. Water is a good insulator. And best to use a heat lamp!

 

[searun]

The other thing to double check is your thru hulls. Many boats used the plastic thru hulls which under really cold conditions can crack allowing water in, sinking your boat. Transport Canada has mandated only use of metal thru hulls for this exact reason. So it would be a good idea to change your thru hulls if they are plastic. The other issue with plastic is under cold conditions if your boat bumps the wharf the plastic can shatter, even if it was in good condition.

 

[GLG]

Water is a very poor insulator. It transfers heat very well. It removes heat from your can of beer or your motor much better than air. That’s why the heat exchanger in a boat is much smaller than the heat exchanger in your truck. GLG

 

[wolf]

To add to what charlie said I wouldnt use wd-40 as it really doesnt coat very well and is mostly made up of water hence WD.but if thats all you got put something on it.
Or get a product from and marine store called corrioson block or better yet a product called LPS #3 heavy duty rust inhibutor the stuff coats on great and last a long time when i used to have an inboard thats what I always sprayed on as thats what the marine tech said they use a very good product, since then I havent used wd-40 again.

Good luck Wolf

Blue Wolf Charters
www.bluewolfcharters.com

 

[Charlie]

quote:Originally posted by GLG

Water is a very poor insulator. It transfers heat very well. It removes heat from your can of beer or your motor much better than air. That’s why the heat exchanger in a boat is much smaller than the heat exchanger in your truck. GLG

Two different thoughts here!

You are referring to the physics and chemistry of water as a “molecule” and I agree it does absorb heat very well. I by no means suggest water (in general) is a good "insulator", of any kind; even though "pure" water containing no ions is an excellent "electrical" insulator! You would just have to find some pure water for that one!

I am referring to water as a large body or “mass” which protects or “insulates” from changes in the environments such as wind, cold, heat, etc.

quote:Originally posted by wolf

”product called LPS #3 heavy duty rust inhibutor the stuff coats on great and last a long time when i used to have an inboard thats what I always sprayed on”

Oops… Wolf is right! Must be an age thing! It has been a long time since I owned an I/O, but I did use LPS#3 and it does work better than WD40. Costs more but is worth it! Best place I found to get LPS#3 was "ACE Hardware"!

 

[wolf]

We are all getting old LOL sometimes I like my afternoon nap when I get up at 4 am LOL so call me old too dont know if I am right but it was just an opnion, there even may be better products out there was just stating what i was told by my mercury mechanic I just like how it stayed on the engine sort of like a protective waxy looking film.



Good luck Wolf

Blue Wolf Charters
www.bluewolfcharters.com