trolling kicker configuration

Discussion in 'Boats, Motors, Trailers and Towing Rigs Forum' started by Bogie418, Aug 4, 2017.

  1. Bogie418

    Bogie418 New Member

    I am about to purchase a new kicker for trolling/safety and was wondering if anyone has tried using remote controls?

    I definitely want the power tilt but am unsure if I should go with:
    1. ex steer, 2nd steering wheel (making holes in the boat), tiller handle with long arm, or remote control,
    2. another throttle control (making holes), tiller handle with long arm, or remote control

    Its for a 18.5 Double eagle with a pod.

    Im leaning toward not making holes but would like to hear from you guys as to whats working best out there.
    thanks
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Rockfish

    Rockfish Well-Known Member

    I have a full remote kicker out on a large Pod that is permanently tied to the main with a cross bar and each motor can go up and down independently. The main has hydraulic steering which steers both motors on a duel helm system - one on the transom. When I come down off plane I can be up and running on the kicker and the main powered off in 5 seconds without having to leave the primary helm station seat. I love it and shudder at remembering the old days of manual tilt systems, pull starts and tiller steering. Way safer than hanging out the back in bumpy seas.
     
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2017
  3. bigbruce

    bigbruce Well-Known Member

    I've got a PowerTrans Python steering system with a wireless remote control. Works great, with very quick response. ! If you don't want to deal with remote throttle and shift controls, get an i-troll or troll master unit for speed control. You'll still have to reach out to shift, though.
     
  4. casper5280

    casper5280 Well-Known Member

    I have a 9.9 Yamaha with forward controls and electric start and trim was on a Panther electric steer on a corded remote steer that I had mounted by the cabin door. Worked great and easy to use. Changing it to a tie bar setup with a 3rd steering helm mounted in the back.
     
  5. Bogie418

    Bogie418 New Member

    I had a tiller on the old grady I once had, but I was always looking where I was headed peeking up over the bow because I was planted at the back.
    It would be nice to have the freedom to move around, but a little worried of the reliability of the remote. Ill search the ones mentioned...
    Maybe a tiller with remote steering, best of both worlds?
     
  6. Trophy

    Trophy Member

    Been using a "Powrtran" remote steering unit on my 9.9 kicker for 4 years. Came with a wired remote but upgraded to two wireless remotes, well worth the $$$. Only downside, no speed control.
     
  7. bigbruce

    bigbruce Well-Known Member

    My Powertran has both a hard wired remote that I've mounted at the helm as well as a wireless remote.
     
  8. casper5280

    casper5280 Well-Known Member

    Not trying to sell the Panther system but it has been good for the 7 years I've had it and it does steer quick as can be. Only flaw that I had with it is the corded remote the two buttons are stacked straight with the cord and took a while to get used to. I mounted it so it was orientated to left and right. Don't know how the cordless one's are.
     
  9. Towney

    Towney Member

    Depends on the hours you spend on the water I guess, but an AP for your kicker is maybe one of the best investments you will buy for your boat. Hands down. I've fished on other boats without AP and some with intellisteer, and I shake my head now. I'm spoilt.
     
  10. ericl

    ericl Active Member

    The solution suggested by Towney would probably be the least stress, best fish fighting option. It would also allow you to obey the marine/fishing right-of-way/etiquette, like yielding to those with fish on. The size of your boat will matter as the smaller the boat the more it gets off course when you move around, and most unfortunately the less respect you will get from those who will deliberately infringe on you right-of-way. I have a 33ft boat that weighs 15K# with AP & remote engine controls. In general, if someone chooses to infringe on my right-of-way I let them assume full ownership of the problem they created. My general rule is don't make me change course by cutting in front of me, don't stop to still fish in front of me.
     
  11. Bogie418

    Bogie418 New Member

    By AP do you mean autopilot? The boat is kinda small for an autopilot I think I like the wired remote option too so that I could mount it in a good location and not fumble it into the water. Im going to see what basspro has today. They seem to be the best price for the motor. $3150 for the prokicker 9.9 high thrust model with electric tilt/tiller. Although Id rather support a smaller local company 500 bucks is alot.

    Yesterday while fishing off Garry Point a guy came off plane to stop 60 feet in front of my trolling line and then started looking around for his gear head down. Crab traps scattered about. A whole ocean to go anywhere and he makes us do a hard turn around him. I might have run him over too, if I had a bigger boat. :^)

    Thanks for all the input, it is much appreciated
     
    northernboi1 likes this.
  12. Capilano

    Capilano New Member

    Bridgeview Marine has this motor on sale this week for $3375.00. I am sure that you could get them down a bit more. Even so, I would rather spend the extra $225.00 to support a good local company.

    http://bridgeviewmarine.com/product/boat-engines-outboards/new-motors/2016-mercury-9-9exlhpt-ct/
     
  13. Bogie418

    Bogie418 New Member

    Yes thats a good point. I have always bought my parts there. Plus they actually know what they are talking about. When I went to basspro they couldnt tell me what the difference was from a regular 9.9 or the prokicker 9.9 The girl said she was 'new', but didnt make any effort to look it up.
    I will go to Bridgeview instead. 500 is stretchin it, but 225 is ok
     
  14. triplenickel

    triplenickel Well-Known Member

    That $500 is the difference between a never ending stream of "new girls" and someone you can trust to get you the right parts and good advice.

    Basspro = Walmart.
     
  15. Towney

    Towney Member

    Don't even bother asking questions at BassPro, go in there armed with some knowledge and you might get a deal.
     
  16. high tide

    high tide Well-Known Member

    Try Inlet Marine, just mounted my new one. They had the best deal any where.

    Good luck to you.
     
  17. Brando

    Brando Active Member

    I have a similar setup to yours, 18' hourston with a 150 on a pod. Bang for your buck go buy the Suzuki imo. 6 year warranty, high thrust, electric tilt/start, fuel injected never clean or deal with a carb again starts first crank every time. $3600 give or take a few $ taxes in which includes controls. Mount them up front near your main controls and use a tie bar between your main and kicker. If you decide later on you want an AP get one that runs your main not the kicker you'll have much better control in rougher seas as the leg from your main will assist in turning a lot. Friend has the lowrance unit and swears by it paired with an hds 9 and 5

    I purchased through motor cycle world in surrey, Eddie was easy to deal answered all my questions and seemed very honest. Couldn't be happier, off plane kicker down and trolling very fast and easy.
     
  18. capt hook

    capt hook Active Member

    sounds like a nice system...
    who did your install?
    i,m going to be installing a new comnav pilot and getting all the haywire/mickeymouse cleaned up next week.
    i would love to get someone to set up system like yours for me.
     
  19. Rockfish

    Rockfish Well-Known Member

    The system came set up when I bought the boat which is a former guide boat. I know who installed it but I doubt they would be available to you but most marine shops or boat yards can do it for you if are not the ‘do it yourself’ type. If the boat is poded hopefully the pod is designed so that it is optimized for remote kicker positioning and to facilitate the cross tie to the main.

    The hydraulics are Sea Star and there are a number of threads with info on setting up multi-helm systems but if you are installing a plumed in auto pilot it sounds like you know what you are doing.

    The cross tie components are available from places like Trotac and consists of a solid stainless threaded steel rod (can be cut to any length) and special stainless connectors that screw on to the ends. One end will be spring loaded/or incorporate a locking mechanism for quick removal. Fine adjustments in motor alignment can be made by screwing the fittings in or out and then tightening the lock nuts.

    Most manufactures/dealers will sell a bracket for the kicker and you can make or have one made to bolt on to the main Outboard.

    When I bought the new kicker I had the dealer hook up the throttle and transmission cable to the remote control unit as I understand that can be a bit tricky if you are not experienced with it, but hooking up the motor end is easier.

    My remote control unit for the kicker is mounted on the cabin side wall just back of the main helm seat as it can be reached easily from both the main helm seat and also from the fishing deck. The cabin is open at the back. I always run the kicker at the dock for a couple of minutes which makes it very easy to start when I come down off plane and to make sure it is working in case the main fails on the way out.

    I am considering adding one of the remote servo type electronic throttle systems for the kicker, although they are pricey, assuming they are compatible with kickers already using a standard remote control system. I think they are.
    One of my buddies has one on his boat for his non remote kicker. What I like about it is the ability to make extremely fine adjustments to the kicker rpm which is useful in adjusting to the correct trolling speed quickly and sometimes quick fine tuning the spin rate on an anchovie that is being difficult in the current. It can be a pain sometimes doing fine speed adjustments on the standard remote throttle using the tap method – tap – that's to fast, tape the other way – that's to slow etc. I also like that they have some programming functions, especially the resume speed function, - after dropping the speed way down to say play a fish or give another boat some separation before turning behind them when fishing in a tight pack, you can then get back to the exact same dialed in speed instantly.
     
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2017
  20. capt hook

    capt hook Active Member

    Thanks Rockfish...great info... i used to be handy and nimble... but as we age not so much anytmore... lol.
    thus the reason i want a easy to use system.
    i have a large walkable swim grid .. with both 150 and 9.9 mounted already , but dont have the rod yet to connect the two.
    i want kicker to raise and lower with pushbutton as i dont want to go out on back and struggle to lower it.
    i now use the main to troll as i,m lazy and it is very hard to get speed right.
    i know using the 9.9 will be much better speed control.. and i will stop having senior tempers when i get the auto pilot installed and stop doing U-turns when i take my eye off of steering for more than 3 seconds.
    I look forward to having it dialed in and simple.
    thanks
    CH
     

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