Elton "Roy" Hyland
Member
I just had the oil changed so I will pop the plugs and spray fogging oil inside. Thanks for all the great info gents.
To winterize or NOT to winterize.
- Thread starter Elton "Roy" Hyland
- Start date
Anyone have an old Yamaha parts kicker laying around...the copper tubing from the water pump to the block is some metric size and having problems finding something that will work. Will try the repair shops tomorrow when they are open too. Only need a piece about 2-3 inches long.
daddystoy
Well-Known Member
That guy at Cabela's is an idiot! The only reason Not to winterize would be if you are using your boat year round. Now in saying this it doesn't mean you don't pull your boat out of the water at the very minimum once a year to check things and perform maintenance as required.
Winterizing performs another function other than protecting it from sitting for long periods in cold weather not being used. By "winterizing" you check things like the gear oil in the leg. By draining and changing this once a year you will be alerted to the fact if you might have water in the oil. Which means a seal is leaking. Which means fix it now before you destroy your bottom end. The old oil is probably fine but you change it for the contamination reason.
Same with removing a prop. Do it just because so that when you do hit something and you need to remove the prop it's not seized on because the grease is so old and refuses to allow the prop to budge. Clean the old grease off the prop shaft splines as well as the splines on the prop and apply fresh grease. You can also check to see if you have any fishing line wrapped around the prop shaft.
It gives you a chance to change engine oil and filters if you have them as well as fuel filters.
You can grease and lubricate things as needed.
There is no such thing as overkill when it comes to taking care of marine stuff.
And to top it all off doing all of this stuff is actually fairly cheap. So why wouldn't you winterize?
When you push off from the dock you want to get back to the dock. (under your own power!)
Winterizing performs another function other than protecting it from sitting for long periods in cold weather not being used. By "winterizing" you check things like the gear oil in the leg. By draining and changing this once a year you will be alerted to the fact if you might have water in the oil. Which means a seal is leaking. Which means fix it now before you destroy your bottom end. The old oil is probably fine but you change it for the contamination reason.
Same with removing a prop. Do it just because so that when you do hit something and you need to remove the prop it's not seized on because the grease is so old and refuses to allow the prop to budge. Clean the old grease off the prop shaft splines as well as the splines on the prop and apply fresh grease. You can also check to see if you have any fishing line wrapped around the prop shaft.
It gives you a chance to change engine oil and filters if you have them as well as fuel filters.
You can grease and lubricate things as needed.
There is no such thing as overkill when it comes to taking care of marine stuff.
And to top it all off doing all of this stuff is actually fairly cheap. So why wouldn't you winterize?
When you push off from the dock you want to get back to the dock. (under your own power!)
x2!
Drink
Well-Known Member
X3,plus as a note please make sure if you have one to drain excess water from your wash down pump as a freeze up will set you back $200 . As well if you have a Teleflex remote aux system crank over the main steering on occasion to make sure the remote doesn’t seize up thru the winter months.That’s a $500 set back for the parts alone. I personally use Seafoam as my fuel stabilizer and touch wood, so far never have had a fuel issue on spring start up.
Also I spray all my canvas zippers with WD40.
Also I spray all my canvas zippers with WD40.
Original
Well-Known Member
Being a newbie at fishing and a boat owner I continue to learn things the hard way. I'm hoping this may save others some $.
I have 2 automatic PDF lifejackets in my boat which is kept under a portable tarped shed, yup both had set off due to rain wind and dampness. Note to self store them in the house just don't forget them when you get ready to go out again. Wonder what my next lesson will be hehe
I have 2 automatic PDF lifejackets in my boat which is kept under a portable tarped shed, yup both had set off due to rain wind and dampness. Note to self store them in the house just don't forget them when you get ready to go out again. Wonder what my next lesson will be hehe
Original
Well-Known Member
Yes $35 ea to rearm them. When I was buying the kits I was told this happens to many others and they sell a lot of kits in Jan. The bobbin's had an expiry date of 2016 so that may of had an effect but I have seen one still armed green with a 2004 exp date. That last storm sent the rain in sideways everything in the boat was very damp.
Elton "Roy" Hyland
Member
The RH Boat I have has an Alaska Bulkhead and is totally enclosed. Even with that, I will remove them. Thanks for the headsup
gungadin
Well-Known Member
Winterizing on the coast is different than in the interior, going from a two stroke to a four stroke adds a few additional items as noted previously. A few thing that I did that have not as yet been mentioned ( on my old Enduro). Fuel Stabilizer: On the last few tanks (portable) I added some Seafoam and some marine fuel stabilizer. I transferred the unused fuel to a Jerry can(s) and stored it inside a cupboard in the garage. I purged the fuel lines including the ones to the carburetors ( removed drain plugs first) with low pressure compressed air and drained the filters (replaced every two years). Because I live on the coast where last year the coldest it got was -10C , I removed the thermostat ( an easy job on the Enduro) and used an RV/marine propylene glycol antifreeze good for around -40C for the cooling system. I should say that if after removing the thermostat I noticed any buildup of salt crystals, I would use Salt Away first. Fogging and leg oil change were next. Before storing a good spray with WD-40 inside and out finished the job.
With the four stroke the only difference I can see is replacing the engine oil and filter. Don't know what to do about the fuel injection system system, hopefully the fuel stabilizer will be enough.
With the four stroke the only difference I can see is replacing the engine oil and filter. Don't know what to do about the fuel injection system system, hopefully the fuel stabilizer will be enough.
Elton "Roy" Hyland
Member
I am pulling my boat in a Christmas Parade tomorrow ( Sat. Dec 2nd ) and will ad some Seafoam to it before I tow it. That should get it mixed up with the gas as the tank is full. NOt sure whether to add Marine Stabil at the same time. May cause a massive chemical reaction and end up blowing up the earth! 8*)
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