Replacing Thru hulls

spring fever

Well-Known Member
The nut broke off the stem of a bronze thru hull. Thruhull is still working and can be closed using the lever except the nut holding the lever on broke off along with all the threaded piece. How difficult are these to replace on a fibreglass boat with good access?
 
I replaced one ,a "straining type?" bronze thru hull, after bumping it on a rock on super low tide at ramp in GRiver.
Very simple especially with good access and done on the trailer...very little mechanical skill needed.

Unhook hose clamp,take handle off,ground wire (if equipped) back the large nut off,remove screws from outside under side of hull
Work the stem back and forth(you might need to use a knife to cut/loosen sealant on both inside and underside of hull..you should then be able to just push it back out through hull.

Install is just the reverse with the application of sealant of your choice before you install in hole of hull
 
Just the nut for the lever broken off? Should just be a matter of replacing the ball valve and leaving the through hull fitting in place.
 
The nut broke off the stem of a bronze thru hull. Thruhull is still working and can be closed using the lever except the nut holding the lever on broke off along with all the threaded piece. How difficult are these to replace on a fibreglass boat with good access?
My bigger question is why are these nuts breaking? My trough hulls on my old gillnetter were brass and at least 30 years old and they were still in great shape. (I pulled mine every 5 years and resealed them). Is there an electrolysis problem somewhere or were they light duty?
 
My bigger question is why are these nuts breaking? My trough hulls on my old gillnetter were brass and at least 30 years old and they were still in great shape. (I pulled mine every 5 years and resealed them). Is there an electrolysis problem somewhere or were they light duty?
No electrolysis -I think just light duty-the whole fitting was bronze -not in water-still works well
 
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