Outboard issues/problems?

Clipper

Well-Known Member
There was a comment on another post about issues with (non specified) with Suzuki outboards. Something about power heads. Anyway, it seem like whatever brand of outboard you pick, someone has a horror story or two and says that you should never get on of those (add brand name here) miserable pos's.

I'd pretty much decided that I was going to go with Yamaha o/b's on any new or used boat that I decided to buy but just read a long series of posts on a couple of other forums that went into great detail about a very serious exhaust manifold corrosion problem on 2002-2004 (and newer) Yam 200-250hp o/b's. More stuff to worry about. Maybe I'll just get a sailboat.
 
I tend to agree with you. I am on my second boat the first one had a Merc (6 cylinder)(Tower of Power)never had any problems with it at all. My current boat also has a Merc and the only problems were the rev limiter went on it and the oil monitoring module. The same with the kickers that I have had - zero problems. Now I do look after my equipment and I am sure that comes into play when it comes to problems. The only motor that I would shy away from is the Evinrude "Ficht", mind you I am sure there a guys out there that have not had any major problems with the "Ficht" model.
Personally I would not have any concern with the Yamaha. Just make sure you have a competent Yamaha mechanic to service it when the need arises.
 
I don't think there's a good "Ficht" outboard left out there, but I could be wrong. That's what bankrupted OMC.
 
They are now E-Tek's, (a Ficht) with new decals and updates for the first generation of glitches. Those who have them like em. It will be interesting to see the new generation of Yami's and how they perform.
 
I'd pretty much decided to go o/b but I'm now reconsidering i/o's after MUCH study. Is there any pro's/con's between the Mercruiser and Volvo units? I'd only look at Bravo 3 or the equivalent Volvo twin screw drives for a 23-24ft boat. Merc uses Ford engines but what does Volvo use?
 
quote:Originally posted by profisher

They are now E-Tek's, (a Ficht) with new decals and updates for the first generation of glitches. Those who have them like em. It will be interesting to see the new generation of Yami's and how they perform.

The etecs use the same injection theory to run as the fichts.
OMC went bankrupt from ficht warranty claims and BRP bought the company and developed the etec - same injection method, new everything else.


Like everything,you hear alot about the bad apples and nothing about the good .EVERY brand out there today is well built and does what it should - otherwise they wouldnt be in business.

If your going i/o - i think the by far worst thing about them is they take up alot of your deck space - theres a reason MOST fishing boats are o/b, especially high end boats. I/o really only show up when you start getting into bigger boats, and sport boats (when people are getting off and on the back regularly)
 
There`s pros and cons to everything. Outboards give you more deck space but there`s more hanging out the back to have a 30 lb spring wrap himself around. My boat,at 24 feet, is wide enough that I can walk to the transom on either side of the doghouse.
I can replace my v8 for 3000-3500 bucks and a reman leg for under 2000. I`m 233 hp so I`d need at least a 225 hp outboard and how much are they to replace?
And, the most important part, I can handle the maintenance and most minor repairs myself.
But who`s kidding who, if I won the lotto I`d probably have a Conquest with two of the V8 Yammi 350`s on it.
 
An outboard on a pod with full transom- pro's, lighter, quieter, a 22 foot boat becomes a 24,(deckroom wise) better on fuel, engineered as a marine engine from ground up, easily removed when selling/traded for new or rebuild, better shallow water abilities, less leg corrosion as it will tilt up farther, way less maintenance and good extended warranties if you want them.
Con's - more expensive to buy new, less effective reversing thrust as I/O's, newer 4 strokes are not user friendly when it comes to repairs, theft can be more of an issue, no reliable way to install a proper autopilot, no bus type heat for cabin, more likely to be bumped into by other boats at dock causing damage and I'm sure a few more.
 
If it has tits or wheels you are going to have trouble with it sooner or later, do your research and make a decision from that. I went from website to docks, boatshows and dealerships. Take the time to listen to the talk and watch the interactions with potential customers this will tell you a lot about what you are getting into.:D:D Good luck.

IMG_1445.jpg
 
As you say Lastchance the facts speak for themselves. Use common sense and use your heart to make your decision.[8D]

IMG_1445.jpg
 
If you look at my transom it might confuse you. I have the common make but still running a carbed 2 stroke main. Will stay that way for many years yet.
 
Started with 150 yamy that came with the boat used,then bought two 250 yamy's put one on.Could'nt be happier!.Don't know why it is but the more confident you feel about your power,the better the run and last!:)
 
Probably the most miserable and also expensive thing one can do, is buy a “new” boat and then realize you don’t really like it or it doesn’t fit your needs.

It is amazing how one’s thought-process changes over the years. I started with one of those “smoky” and loud 2 stroke outboards. Went to a Volvo I/O and then moved to a Merc I/O and stayed with Merc for years, ending up with a 7.5L, Bravo-3 outdrive. Then I moved to twin diesels inboard and had it for quite a few years. You will have more vibration with I/O or inboard, than the newer 4 stoke outboards I now have.

During my last boat, I bought a 12’ dingy/fish boat, which happened to come with a 4 stroke Yamaha. I had more fun on that “dingy” than the main boat and I abused the crap out of that Yamaha, running it into rocks, sand, and mud. I fished and beached that thing everywhere! Yea, if any saw some idiot fishing off WCVI and you were trying to figure out what kind of fool would run that far in such small boat, it was probably me! You just didn’t see where the other boat was anchored. :)

When I got my first I/O, I swore I would never go back to an outboard. After the diesel inboard, I swore I would never go back to either, outboard, I/O, or gas. Then when we decided downsize I started looking at wants and needs and taking in consideration performance, maintenance, and upkeep. Yep, what do I now own – twin, gas, outboards, and they are Yamaha! And, yes they are hanging off a Conquest 295 but, I didn’t have to win the lottery. I just found someone that wanted to move a boat!

Btw… IMHO the maintenance and upkeep on I/O is a more, just keeping the corrosion out of the engine compartment can be a full time job? The newer 4 strokes are so quiet you will hardly hear them run. And, if anyone thinks working on those Merc’s & I/O outdrives are easy and cheap, that has not been my experience. The ones I have owned were not as easy or cheap to maintain as my 4 stokes! Just for the record, a new 7.5 “long block” can run as high as $5K? A new Bravo-3 outdrive is closer to $8K (been there done that one - warranty). Then you have mounting and installation? Yes, I know you can buy them both rebuilt and cheaper, but one doesn’t have to replace an outboard “new” either! I know I can get a “new” head for under $5K, without even looking it up.

Moral… they all have “pros” and “cons” and always will have! Just find a boat you like and fits your wants and needs, and don’t worry about the rest of the crap! They are all just as good or bad, as the case may be - they just have different names! :)
 
The reason I'm sticking with my 200 2 stroke (carbed) is they are cheap and easy to work on. I've had a ready to go spare rebuilt powerhead at all times in case I go down during the summer. I now have gathered enough spare parts to assemble a complete ready to go spare. I can and will alternate back and forth between the one on the boat now and the spare as I need to. The spare coast me 4K to rebuild with new Wisco pistons/rings/wrist pins, new small and big end bearings and bored 20 over to clean up the holes. The rest of the parts to complete the rest of the engine will be free as I buy blown engines, (cheap)take what I need and sell off the rest to recover my money. I now have about 10K invested in 2 engines, which I consistently get 5 years service from before requiring a tear down. That works out to about 1K per year...I won't be investing 50K in 2 - 4 strokes to have the luxury of a spare anytime soon.
 
A lot of good advice here and I thank you all for that. I have a tendency to over-analyse any purchase that I make, especially the big ones, until I get to the point of being totally confused.

You're right - I should just find a rig that suits my needs and not sweat the details or I'll drive myself nuts (nuttier?).
 
Back
Top