Installing second helm

Dan The Man

Active Member
Hey guys, i'm tired of running back and forth, trying to work the lines and keep the boat going in the direction i want it to go. I have a 232 grady white gulfstream, has anyone done this? any knowledge would be appreciated.
 
If your steering is hydraulic get an autopilot to hold a course for you while working the lines. Other option is to hire someone to steer for you.lol
 
I have a 2nd helm (Sea Star) facing up on the transom with a small wheel with steering knob. It is incredibly useful in that location, especially when playing fish, working gear and steering while surrounded by a lot of boats or avoiding heavy tidelines etc. Keep the wheel and nut greased as water will hold on top of it and you will need a really good gear puller to break it off without damaging the seals if corrosion sets in. The kicker is permanently cross tied to the main outboard, so both helms steer both motors all the time and they can still go up and down independently.

Always remember to top up hydraulic fluid at the highest helm, if you open the lower helm the fluid will flow out and make a big mess and if you were at sea you could lose steering, especially on the upper (main helm). Keep extra fluid and a small funnel on board.

Auto-steering and second helms are really different beasts with their own advantages and disadvantages. The auto helm is mostly about holding a course while the second helm for me is more about maneuvering while occupied out the back. Many times I have used it to steer around a salmon we are trying to keep from coming up on the side of the boat we still have gear down on. In my view, the second helm will cost far less, be generally more reliable and will not fail in heavy seas as some auto-steering systems can do when they get over taxed. If it were me I would add the second helm first then think about auto steering if it does not meet all your needs. Then you would have the best of both, at significant cost of course.
 
Last edited:
The lowest helm needs a fill cap that releases fluid when under great pressure (vent cap). The upper helm cap is solid.
 
I went the cheap rout and added a cable helm to my kicker. Works great. Before that idea (thanks Tony) I was going to do intelesteer which imo is a great system.
 
added a second station out back on my Striper , love it , pretty standard out west for most of us regulars ,
pretty straight frwd ,new helm , hoses few fittings , bleed lines , ,ties into your current system ,
, i fish solo all the time , couldn't imagine fishing it without it now !!

Seastar

FD


X2 don't leave home without it
 
I went the cheap rout and added a cable helm to my kicker. Works great. Before that idea (thanks Tony) I was going to do intelesteer which imo is a great system.

Had 22' bayliner with cable steering mounted at the rear and it was great. Simple and trouble free.
 
The lowest helm needs a fill cap that releases fluid when under great pressure (vent cap). The upper helm cap is solid. sorry wrong.

Bad advice you need a vent on whatever is your highest point I actually was the first to ever do this system back in the day and did rockfishs boat, I was told over 20 years ago the helm and to be vertical i said why? as long as lines were all bled it could be upside down it doesnt matter hydrolics dont care as long as its full thru the system. it was bit trickier with an inboard but i have it . only thing I did different was to put a lil reservoir up under my my helm (hidden) where the vent normally is an elbow with a tube on it to the bottle.
Think of a hydrolic system on a excavator it has a 10 gallon reservoir so when everything is extended and out it has enough oil to run the lines , as my system has 2 - 3 way shut off valves and 7 lines so i can steer up front on main from front or back or flip the valve and then I can steer upfront or back on kicker. its a pretty slick system . Its WAY easier on an outboard set up ...If you are stuck give me a shout ill help ya..

Good luck wolf
 
Wolf, you are right I re read the instructions. I am on the way to switch the 2 plugs on my system. Sorry to everyone for the misinformation.
 
i will post a pic of my bleeding device...

a permanent burp or reservoir tank at a high point is the best but not always possible.

pretty easy to plumb in the tee to add a rear helm.
 
seperate cable to the kicker would be a bit tuffer in my area , swells and winds currents ,ive tied into my twin mains , gives me 3
legs all turning in sync , solid tracking in all conditions , turns on a dime !!
no air vents on my system works flawlessly , zero slack , Ever !!!

m2b

fd



you must be an electrician!!!

what happens on a really hot day and your system needs to expand?

then the next day is cool?
you will either blow out a fitting or a seal.

now you have air gaps.
 
no problem Buds all good always want your bleeder up at high point hence why I have a reservoir. I used a old merc bottle they use for inboards the one that tells you if water is in leg. You can always find a place for one just takes a bit of imagination doesnt have to be right near it carry it from 1 ft to 6 ft or more as long as that bottle "TOP" level is higher than the vent on your front helm it will be good I used clear tubing as that part isnt under alot of pressure.

good luck Wolf
 
you must be an electrician!!!

what happens on a really hot day and your system needs to expand?

then the next day is cool?
you will either blow out a fitting or a seal.

now you have air gaps.


dont know **** about hydraulics lol , but , i do know it has never been needed to be touched in 5 years ?
FLAWLESS , guess ive been lucky , or maybe my boat doesnt heat up like a tuna can :)

fd
 
Thanks for all the great advice!! I currently have my kicker tied to my twins, it makes steering in any condition ideal. So what i need is to split the main lines, and add 3way valve? is a check valve needed? Does anyone have a flow diagram for their set up?

Thanks

Dan
 
This is how mine inboard is set-up
727b.jpg
 
Back
Top