spring fever
Well-Known Member
Okay we know you should flush after every trip-whats the feeling can you flush just using the hose attachments the Yammi's have or should you put the "ears" on and run the motor until the tell-tale gets a little warm?
Flushing outboards
- Thread starter spring fever
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Rum Buddies
Well-Known Member
if your engine has a hose attachment that should be all that's needed - I believe that's what its for?
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scott craven
Well-Known Member
I always use the "earmuff's" to flush, but my motor does not
have the fitting.
I read somewhere once that you don't get the same amount of waterflow
through the fitting as you do using muff's ?
have the fitting.
I read somewhere once that you don't get the same amount of waterflow
through the fitting as you do using muff's ?
nedarb2
Active Member
You would think that the attachemnt is all you need but there saying that the thermostat doesn't open to let water flow completely around the block when you just use that. I would imagine though they would have engineered a by pass tube or something to eliminate that problem, especially if they say thats all you need/should do to flush???
Charlie
Well-Known Member
Okay... So, I'm bad! I don't flush after every use! Maybe once every couple of months? But, I use my boat year around. [:0]
"This will help prevent a buildup of deposists from clogging the internal water passages."
When I flush, I use the the garden-hose connector. Tilt the engine up, leave it off, attach hose and turn on 1/2 maximum (Do not open the water tap all the way as this allows a high pressure flow of water), the service manual states to flush for 15 minutes - I probably flush each engine for closer to 1/2 hour.
But in case you don't know... you have 4 anodes in the engine block that should be checked? It is probably more important to check them, at least once every 100 hours or 6 months?
"This will help prevent a buildup of deposists from clogging the internal water passages."
When I flush, I use the the garden-hose connector. Tilt the engine up, leave it off, attach hose and turn on 1/2 maximum (Do not open the water tap all the way as this allows a high pressure flow of water), the service manual states to flush for 15 minutes - I probably flush each engine for closer to 1/2 hour.
But in case you don't know... you have 4 anodes in the engine block that should be checked? It is probably more important to check them, at least once every 100 hours or 6 months?
You only need to flush if the saltwater in the engine/leg sits long enough to evaporate, leaving a salt deposit behind. I use my engine daily through the summer, never flushing. In the winter during sporadic use (and working from the trailer) I flush after each use on the house hose.
You only need to flush if the saltwater in the engine/leg sits long enough to evaporate, leaving a salt deposit behind. I use my engine daily through the summer, never flushing. In the winter during sporadic use (and working from the trailer) I flush after each use on the house hose.
danthewire
Active Member
I flush mine EVERY time I use it,I believe there are bypass holes in the stat.I asked at the dealer and they said use the flush attachment.http://www.njsaltwaterfisherman.com/forums/index.php?action=printpage;topic=11668.0
danthewire
Active Member
I flush mine EVERY time I use it,I believe there are bypass holes in the stat.I asked at the dealer and they said use the flush attachment.http://www.njsaltwaterfisherman.com/forums/index.php?action=printpage;topic=11668.0
I've seen the inside of my Yami's with the method posted above...no salt deposits anywhere. The teflon coating that Yami puts on all the inner passages (2 strokes)keeps it from sticking and staying. One thing Yami has done right with all the true marine engines. The larger 4 strokes are another thing...I would flush them as much as I could as they are an adapted automotive engine that doesn't have this protection...and they will rot out...especially the exhaust side of the engine!!
TenMile
Well-Known Member
I always use fresh water for 15 minutes, then use SaltAway. The SaltAway stuff dissolves any salt deposits in the manifold and risers. Use their hose adapter and flush as normal (with ears or the hose adapter) until you see the soapy bubbles coming out -- then turn off the flush and just let it sit until you start the engine next time. It also works great as a boat wash, and is good to clean off all your fishing gear.
TenMile
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TenMile
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CIVANO
Well-Known Member
I just got my Yamaha 250 4 stroke winterized and I asked the mechanic about flushing. He said to use the hose connection only with the motor not running. He said it bypasses the thermostat and backflushes. He said using the ears while running the motor occasionally lets air in and that can damage the water pump.
I replace my impeller every 2 years and drop the leg every year to lube up the drive shaft into power head coupler. Also lube the leg bolts so I never have to use heat or worry about breaking bolts off. Some of you guys running the big Suzuki power should drop the leg every year and do the same....there is an issue with the drive shaft getting stuck in the power head if you don't. The only fix is to cut the drive shaft and replace it!!! $$$$$
geo_tonz
Member
Maybe this is obvious to some but you need to be careful with using the muffs as CIVANO alluded to. I assumed the Honda's could be run on them when they first came out with the 45hp. After a month or two of flushing like this it started to overheat when on plane: we'd cooked the impeller 'cause there was a couple extra intake holes we didn't know about and it had been sucking air. A less-convenient cut-off 45 gal drum replaced the muffs after that.
The worst day fishing is better than the best day working...
The worst day fishing is better than the best day working...
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