Anybody know this old clunker?

geo_tonz

geo_tonz

Member
Olivia Newton John shook her money maker while singing "Magic". The Beachcombers were in the middle of their 19 year run. Women sported shoulder pads, mini-skirts and leg warmers.

And I'm willing to bet one of you fine fellows had a shiny new 1980 Johnson 85hp V4. Or maybe some of you have owned one since? Am I the only one that currently has one?

This is what currently graces the transom of my recent acquisition and I was wondering if anyone can tell me anything about them? Any quirks, weak points, things to watch for/check out, reliability issues, breakdowns and fixes...any info would be greatly appreciated!


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Thanks in advance.

The worst day fishing is better than the best day working...
 
Also: it has no external zincs. Likely because it was originally sold in Manitoba (dealer sticker still legible). Should I be attaching some to the top side of the cavitation plate?

The worst day fishing is better than the best day working...
 
I wasn't old enough to own one then. But on the topic of Zincs, isn't that a zinc right above the prop, the dual purpose kind to counter rotational forces from the prop?
 
Well I'm not sure...some trim tabs are aluminum and some are zinc. I suspect that this one is aluminum as it doesn't appear to be pitting/turning white/dissolving like the small zinc anodes I've seen on other outboards. Some other forums have mentioned zinc for salt water, aluminum for brackish and magnesium for fresh. Though I have heard putting zinc AND aluminum sacrificials on at the same time can be bad as they then sacrifice for each other and not the outboard.

On that note maybe I should just replace the trim tab with a zinc one?

The worst day fishing is better than the best day working...
 
quote:On that note maybe I should just replace the trim tab with a zinc one?
Click to expand...
Yes I would replace it with a zinc. Also, I just replaced the zincs on my outboard and I also had a zinc on the bottom of the transom mount as well that I replaced so if your boat is still "hot" after replacing the one zinc maybe think about putting on a second one. Steve.

And remember....Keep your tip up!!!
fish.gif
 
Thanks Steve. After spending some time on Iboat.com I discovered that the trim tab is supposed to be aluminum and painted on these motors (I guess so it doesn't turn into an anode itself?). They said that these motors didn't come with zincs and to add one to the top of the cavitation plate (http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=272177&highlight=zinc).
No zincs...well that doesn't make me nervous!

The worst day fishing is better than the best day working...
 
In that horsepower range, they were quite reliable. As you can see that one is still around. The higher horsepower for the same cubes gave more trouble and had a shorter life.
I owned a 15 horse 1981 and a 90 horse 1984 and I had no problems what so ever other than the 90 loved gas, 4 mpg on a jet.:D

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Thanks Gunsmith...makes me feel a bit better!
Yeah, it does seem to be a bigger pig that I had hoped but seems to run all right.

The worst day fishing is better than the best day working...
 
One important thing to check is that you have the right prop for your boat. Your motor should run at the 5500rpm mark with the load you will always have in the boat. It can run around 5200 to 5700. This where they are at their best. Your prop is your governor on an outboard and it will decide whether you grenade your engine or lug it to death.:D

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Gun..your right and wrong about the prop being the governor...the max rpms are limited by the prop the actual rpms turned is governed by the operator. The operator can always over ride the prop as a governor by lightening the load, letting it suck air and cavatating, etc etc.
With outboards I've always gone for long life by going with a slightly smaller prop which will allow the engine to spin up past max red line if you let it. The trick is not to take it up past the red line. Basically you will be running a lower gear and putting less strain on the rods, wrist pins and crank in turn. Especially coming out of the hole!! Yes a little less top end speed, but I don't run my 200 Yami much past 42-4300rpms (29-30mph) even though I could turn 5700.
 
I hear ya I did not want to go into it but what I meant was that if you have the right prop for what you are doing you will not over-rev.:D

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I would make sure the overheat alarm works. Those units were notorious for air locking at idle. All you need to do if that happens is rev it up to increase your water pressure.. I dont know what else to tell you, I use to work on those almost every day and there were no real consistant problems. I guess make sure your thermostats are allowing your temp to come up to 140- 160 degrees. I hope you love the smell of 2- stk smoke in the morning![:p]

nootkalasttrip015.jpg

Fill the dam tub!
 
IFL:Yeah it's a bit of a switch from my dad's nice shiny Honda 90 that I used to steal to go fishing whenever I could. It's always fun to leave the folks eating at the Pier Pub deck in a cloud of blue smoke though (The deck overlooks the Comox ramp). That's after I rupture their ear drums with the brake squeal as I back my aged VW Vanagon down the ramp! Throw in my kids running around and I'm quite the show! A Honda 75 is on the long-term plan but I gotta get "the accountant" to love boating/fishing a whole lot more before that happens!

How would I check that the overheat alarm is working? I read some where that it is supposed to sound briefly on start-up to show it's working although that sounds a little hi-tech for this vintage.

Also how would I check that it is getting up to temp properly? Telltale temp? Laser temp gun-thingy (technical name).

"I use to work on those almost every day and there were no real consistent problems..." There was just lots of them out there requiring service or these were always in the shop?

Thanks again guys! There's plenty of other forums when you post something like this and never get any kind of response. Keep the good info coming! Can't believe it took me 'till now to find this forum!

The worst day fishing is better than the best day working...
 
There should be a zinc anode mounted under the mounting bracket too.....so that the bracket is protected when motor up and moored in a marina
 
Hey geo, I don't have exectly the same engine but close: a 1979 70hp Johnson. Can tell you that there is nothing more robust than this piece of machinery. I have the ok for a new engine but only if the old one dies - and damn, it just runs and runs and will probably run for another 5 years! :( Only thing ever went during the 7 years I had it was the powerpack - the only electronic piece in it. Mind you mine is slightly different - 3 cylinder but otherwise probably the same setup. Yeah, it stinks and does not run smooth as silk but cheap on gas, cheap and plenty spare parts and besides some gear oil once per year, grease nipples filled few times per year, new plugs once per year and the manual 2stroke mix, there is nothing you need to do. No idea how many hours are on this piece - 23 years before I got it - I never run more than 15 or 20 min max each way on it but over the years I probably put 1000 hours in it myself. Wish they'd still build everlasting stuff like that today... I am sure you will get lots of life out of it.

Oh forgot: yeah, that trim plate does not come in a zinc version for these motors - looked for this myself some time ago. You need to add a couple of those small zinc nuggets to the top of the cavitation plates (one per side) and I added another to the mounting bracket - even that does not seem to get used up a lot.
 
Thanks Despy, there's some good info on there. I found a little more model-specific stuff at iboats though (http://forums.iboats.com/forumdisplay.php?f=24).

Chris and Peahead: Zincs are a for-sure. Don't really know why it didn't come with any originally but thankfully it doesn't seem worse for wear because of it. Glad to hear you've had such a positive (if never-ending) experience with your motor Chris. They seem very solid. Wish I'd done this research pre-purchase but thankfully it seems to be turning out alright.

The worst day fishing is better than the best day working...
 
To check overheat alarm- At the top of each cyl head, there is a sensor with a wire coming out of it, that vintage will probably have a "scissor" type connector.. it will be clear when you see it. Simply turn your key on and ground each lead one at a time, at least that will tell you if your horn is working. I believe the horn will probably be mounted in your controll box. If its not working, and your handy, you can rig one up under the dash.

The easiest way to check head temp at idle is to put your hand at the top of each head. When its up to temp, you should be able to hold your hand there for 4 or 5 seconds, until it gets too uncomfortable.

I worked at a dealer so I was around them all the time. They were quite easy to work on. That was when the FICHT system first came out. Unfortunately, it turned out to be their demise ,most of them blew up.. they were too fuel sensitive and pounded out wrist pins. I think Bombardier was able to refine it becoming what we know today as the E- Tech.


nootkalasttrip015.jpg

Fill the dam tub!
 
Thanks IFL! I will check all that.

So far here's my list of stuff to do as far as this motor:
1.Drain and clean the tank (small chunkies seen in the transparent filter housing) and check filler cap seals and replace in-line filter.
2. Do a Decarb as outlined here: http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=158076
3.Compression test just to see what's up.
4.Add zincs to top of cavitation plate and transom bracket.
5.Replace spark plugs
6.Change oil in lower unit and seals on filler/drain plugs
7.Clean and Die-electric grease any electrical Connections I can find.
8.Test overheat alarm.
9.Install a tach (Any suggestions as to type??) or at the very least check RPM at cruise to see how (have a tester).
10.Grease the crap out of it.
11.When/if the snow starts to fly i might rebuild the carbs.

Anything major I'm missing?
Any advantage for these old rigs to running fancier oil or am I throwing money away? I like Opti-2 for my chain saw as I'm not choking on smoke.

Again, thanks for all your help! I appreciate that you've taken the time. I suppose it helps that this topic comes after the fishing's died down or it'd be a lonely thread! Hopefully this post will help some other clunker-owners too!

The worst day fishing is better than the best day working...
 
I have always bought the cheap Canadian Tire outboard motor oil and it hasn't made me regret it yet. I don't think you need to go expensive for those old warriors. Just add enough.
 
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