Advice on first boat

Folks, when it comes to things like listed below. What do you look for in s seaworthiness boat?

- Deadrise at transom ?? degrees

- Bow entry ?? degrees

- Side thickness ??

- Bottom Thickness?

It seems like there are a lot of variance & I don't know what is best???
 
None of those factors really affects sea worthiness.

Deadrise will affect your comfort running in chop, bottom and side thickness are not hugely important as long as there is good structure to strengthen the hull. Many higher end boats up the alloy thickness, but a strongly built lighter plate boat is usually just fine, but the lighter weight usually means a rougher ride in the chop.
 
I've been boating for 35yrs. In my opinion seaworthiness is a function of the condition of the boat (no leaks, systems working as intended, etc) and the overall design/shape of the boat. I'd go out in almost anything in a Boston Whaler Montauk 17 but wouldn't go anywhere in a 20' bowrider with an inboard. The Whaler has low freeboard, but is self bailing (water drains overboard without pumps and can't go in to the bilge) whereas the bowrider would take on water and rely on pumps to empty. I know you're not looking at bowriders but it's an easy comparison for illustration purposes.

The questions you're asking below relate more to the comfort of operation.

Transom deadrise is in indicator of the smoothness of the ride through choppy waves. More transom deadrise typically means that the hull is more V-shaped over the whole length, so when you're on plane the portion of the hull that is contacting the water will still "cut through" waves. When all other things are equal (they never are) a boat with more deadrise will take more power to maintain cruising speed. Also, for an equal beam a boat with more deadrise will tend to roll more.

Bow entry again is an indicator of cutting through waves, but I'm not sure you'll find many boats that post the bow angle or a consistent (comparable) way to measure. Don't sweat this part.

Side thickness and bottom thickness may indicate toughness and durability due to prolonged use. We used to have a light gauge Kellahan welded aluminum boat. The boat had a shallow V hull and rode pretty rough. Over the years the hull developed fatigue cracks along the stringers and began to leak water. Once aluminum is fatigued you will be forever chasing fatigue cracks. Our boat had numerous patches on the bottom but there was always a new leak in a different spot. Thicker material will also indicate a heavier boat which is the biggest factor in a smooth ride.

Some of the best advise in this thread is to take your time and go test drive various boats. Bring your family so you can get a feel for the space, and how the boat runs with the family on board. There is no perfect boat, so pick a good one, learn it's quirks and enjoy the time on the water!


Folks, when it comes to things like listed below. What do you look for in s seaworthiness boat?

- Deadrise at transom ?? degrees

- Bow entry ?? degrees

- Side thickness ??

- Bottom Thickness?

It seems like there are a lot of variance & I don't know what is best???
 
Gonna be hard for an AL boat to match the complex hull shapes possible with FG. Wide beam is more seaworthy. My biggest plus of an AL boat would be no wood used in construction (it rots).
I have a friend that owns 4-5 boats for each type of fishing. Otherwise, it's all about what sacrifices/compromises you make.
Steeper angles at the bow/stern will ride better on plane, use more fuel and rock more at trolling speeds.
Flatter angles will be opposite of all the above.
Worst boat I have ever been in on the ocean is the AL boats at West Coast Resorts. Best is a 1978 24 SeaRay I had.
 
Thanks guys!! Very much appreciated!! I have learnt a ton from you.
 
Gonna be hard for an AL boat to match the complex hull shapes possible with FG. Wide beam is more seaworthy. My biggest plus of an AL boat would be no wood used in construction (it rots).
I have a friend that owns 4-5 boats for each type of fishing. Otherwise, it's all about what sacrifices/compromises you make.
Steeper angles at the bow/stern will ride better on plane, use more fuel and rock more at trolling speeds.
Flatter angles will be opposite of all the above.
Worst boat I have ever been in on the ocean is the AL boats at West Coast Resorts. Best is a 1978 24 SeaRay I had.


Those small Bridgeview's are a bit scary at times for sure. I have never felt so small, then coming around Hippa Island and meeting the open pacific
 
Gonna be hard for an AL boat to match the complex hull shapes possible with FG.
Agreed. Double Eagles, some Malibus, etc... are well loved for how well they do in the chop for such little boats. While I've enjoyed our Campion for the fish it's caught, I can't say that I love it's ride, and the larger Lifetimer we had didn't ride much better.
 
The only struggle I have right now is the off shore bracket. I want one, but there is no way it will fit in my garage. I could probably make it work but that would mean me extending the rear wall in my garage out further, which would be a huge expense. Or, pay the $100/month storage which bites. Worst case I could put it in at an angle but that would mean my triple garage would be taken up by the boat. (Which I may do)

The other limitation you may find about putting it in your garage is the height. I have a Campion 542 with a swinging tongue trailer and it enables me to put the boat into my garage. I have a foot to spare in front of the bow and about 3 feet in the back with the outboard engine tilted about 45 degrees, so in theory I could buy a slightly longer boat. However, I find that even with my soft top folded down, my windshield only has about 2" clearance getting in and out of the garage. I wouldn't think I could get too many boats bigger then my 18.5' Campion which will have the same or lower height. My garage door is a standard 7' height I believe.

Dave
 
Yup
The only struggle I have right now is the off shore bracket. I want one, but there is no way it will fit in my garage. I could probably make it work but that would mean me extending the rear wall in my garage out further, which would be a huge expense. Or, pay the $100/month storage which bites. Worst case I could put it in at an angle but that would mean my triple garage would be taken up by the boat. (Which I may do)

The other limitation you may find about putting it in your garage is the height. I have a Campion 542 with a swinging tongue trailer and it enables me to put the boat into my garage. I have a foot to spare in front of the bow and about 3 feet in the back with the outboard engine tilted about 45 degrees, so in theory I could buy a slightly longer boat. However, I find that even with my soft top folded down, my windshield only has about 2" clearance getting in and out of the garage. I wouldn't think I could get too many boats bigger then my 18.5' Campion which will have the same or lower height. My garage door is a standard 7' height I believe.

Dave


your right. I will be keeping that in mind
 
Gents, after the good advice I received when I started this thread it completely changed what I wanted for a boat & also changed my budget. I have been saving & am planning on pulling the trigger before March. I am planning on crossing the boarder & buying used down south. I have been watching prices & inventory daily & do not se any deals in Canada that can compete.


However, I am at a road block with my plan. I do not know or understand the process of bringing a boat back into Canada... Do I have to pay duties' & taxes on a used boat?

Can any folks who have done this before help me out?
 
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