4000 Dollars for an impeller change???

I'm not saying your McGyver won't work, but if he does have a kicker I'd suggest using that if need be.
 
I replaced an impellor on a 225 yammi after 8 years and it was a beast. After all the bolts were removed there was no movement-I got some Fallers wedges from Northern rope (hard plastic) cut them into
3/4 inch wide strips and proceded banging them in around the casing-after 2 days I got it to drop. Very heavy-have it secured---went back in easily
I have plenty of wedges, sounds like a good idea, will pass it on
 
Found this online. The part I highlighted seems like something that should be tried before cutting the shaft.

First , remove the propeller , no need to have an additional 20 pounds dangling out there . It is for sure your drive shaft stuck in the bottom of the crank . Get or fab some good pry bars to apply constant pressure and continue to pry and tap with a large shot filled dead blow hammer while a friend is cranking the engine over with the kill lanyard puled . sometimes this will help dislodge the stuck lower unit . This situation is a good example why to perform the redunant task of changing the water pump every year , keep the parts moving .
In extreme cases sometimes a hole is drilled in the midsection so the drive shaft can be cut to remove the stuck unit .
Sounds like a good idea too.
 
Not uncommon to for the driveshaft splines to seize in the crank if left too long without being greased. Drill a hole with a hole saw in the exhaust housing and cut the driveshaft, will need a new shaft and weld the cutout back in the housing but it won't be 4K! This procedure has been done countless times
 
My Yamaha took the better part of a week of taping the wedges before I left for work, when I got home and before bed. I started with little steel wedges (1"x 3" x 0.25") that I sharpened to a razors edge and polished. Then once I had a gap started I used fallers wedges cut in half and steel angles to protect the surfaces. Usually I would go out and find the shaft had crept a little and the wedges on the ground. So back in they went with a light tap. No great force, no rush and no broken parts (don't hammer a wedge into things like the shift linkage). I blocked it up so it could only drop a couple of inches and drop it did.
 
My Yamaha took the better part of a week of taping the wedges before I left for work, when I got home and before bed. I started with little steel wedges (1"x 3" x 0.25") that I sharpened to a razors edge and polished. Then once I had a gap started I used fallers wedges cut in half and steel angles to protect the surfaces. Usually I would go out and find the shaft had crept a little and the wedges on the ground. So back in they went with a light tap. No great force, no rush and no broken parts (don't hammer a wedge into things like the shift linkage). I blocked it up so it could only drop a couple of inches and drop it did.
I was talking to him today. Told him about all the ideas on here. It seems we are going to try the polished wedge idea. He is away for a couple of weeks, but may bring the boat here. I have to make the wedges though. Were the wedges sharpened to a taper on both edges or did you leave one side flat and only sharpen one side? Any lubricant used?
 
Not uncommon to for the driveshaft splines to seize in the crank if left too long without being greased. Drill a hole with a hole saw in the exhaust housing and cut the driveshaft, will need a new shaft and weld the cutout back in the housing but it won't be 4K! This procedure has been done countless times
We may end doing this if the polished wedge idea doesn't pan out Need to find out the location of the hole though. Weld a piece to the driveshaft and use a slide hammer after that ( of course use lots of lubricant)
 
Exactly the same problem I had with my Merc 115 4 stroke. Went in for a routine impeller and gearcase oil change.. and the shaft was seized in the block. No way was that leg going to drop. My Merc dealer called Mercury in Fond du Lac , Wi. and was told him they had never had this problem before The only way they could see to get the shaft to move , was to get at it by disassembling the block from the top. Total cost that Mercury marine paid my dealer was $3500.. very thankful for the Platinum extended warranty ...
 
Needless to say- I have purchased another 3 years extended warranty for the recent Merc I purchased
 
Needless to say- I have purchased another 3 years extended warranty for the recent Merc I purchased
Exactly the same problem I had with my Merc 115 4 stroke. Went in for a routine impeller and gearcase oil change.. and the shaft was seized in the block. No way was that leg going to drop. My Merc dealer called Mercury in Fond du Lac , Wi. and was told him they had never had this problem before The only way they could see to get the shaft to move , was to get at it by disassembling the block from the top. Total cost that Mercury marine paid my dealer was $3500.. very thankful for the Platinum extended warranty ...
Well at leas5 we know he is not alone. Might be a tough lesson
 
In the link TheBigGuy posted there, they also mention another penetrating lube called Kroil. I can attest that the stuff is amazing. It's hard to find in Canada, but I got it with a kit I needed to service my aftercoolers from a place in the US called Seaboard Marine. Stainless/bronze and aluminum parts all mixed together. Heat and cool, give the parts some whacks. Apply liberal amounts of Kroil and stuff will come apart.
 
Kroils great stuff. developed for the aerospace industry, boeing, etc... It's worked before for me when nothing else seemed too. Some people use an atf and acetone mixture (50-50) with pretty good results also. Alot of additives in atf apparently. Have to shake it up a bit before applying...
 
I know this is an old post, but the pump has been changed, along with the leg. On a recent trip up island he hit a rock while coming into a boat ramp, and put a hole in the gearcase, dinged the prop, and further bent the propshaft. He figured the motor was toast to the tune of 20,000$. As a last resort he took it to a small repair shop just south of Campbell River. The owner said he would try to get it off, two hours later the gearcase was on the ground. Very thin aluminium wedges were the secret. The old (original OEM) impeller had one cracked vane, but was otherwise good--1000hrs. Had another gearcase put on and everything is good now.
 
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