Dummy flashers & tuna cord

I have never tried this set up yet.
In terms of efficiency, how does it compare with the bait attached to the flasher?
 
I actually prefer the dummy flasher when fishing with bait. I'm sure it's mostly in my head but I feel like I have a more "direct" connection to the fish and can really feel what the fish is doing more so than when there's a flasher inline with my bait/spoon.

That's just me. I know there's a lot of people who catch a lot more fish than me who run the tried and true flasher + bait/lure on the same line who would disagree. But fishing success is truly all about confidence.

If you're confident in what and how you're running your gear, then you're going to fish it. And if you're fishing it, the chances of you hooking up are greatly increased. Hence, you have success with it.
 
I prefer no flasher or dummy flasher where possible. So much more enjoyable to not fight a fish with a flasher.

Amen to that. I have found that almost everything can be fished without an inline lasher. There are devices to make hoochies and flies have action. Feel the fish, not the flasher!
 
Amen to that. I have found that almost everything can be fished without an inline lasher. There are devices to make hoochies and flies have action. Feel the fish, not the flasher!

For sure. I like to put the boat in neutral too and fight the fish, so much fun. Prefer that to ‘trolling’ a fish up from 200’ with the occasional run peeling line.
 
Quick Question: Why use heavy mono for the Dummy Flasher line? Is this to encourage a more consistent rotation or...?
 
Quick Question: Why use heavy mono for the Dummy Flasher line? Is this to encourage a more consistent rotation or...?

I use 200# power pro. the same as whats on my DR. Much easier to store than mono (it folds). easier knots than heavy mono.
 
Last week tried a setup with 400lb mono (which is supposed to act as a snubber itself).

Wasn’t impressed with the frequency the Scotty clips popped off the slick mono. Would require some mods or a different line clip.


Bottom clip is the standard that you buy at the tackle shop.

Top clip has the black slider replaced with a nylon spacer. You can find them at a good hardware store, in the drawer units that have all the special fasteners. They come in various lengths and have a through hole. The one shown gives a lot of tension. Adjust the length for increase or decrease in tension.


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Below, my setup for the downrigger weight. Heavy cord (about 6 feet) on the bottom goes to the cannonball. Line from the release goes in the center eye. Top eye is for the downrigger cable. I make the swivel from big three way swivels. This type has less friction in the swivel and allows free swinging of the eye for the release line.


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My cannonballs have two eyes so I can clip the dummy flasher line to the cannonball, or in some cases clip to one of the eyes of the big swivel from the heavy cord to the cannonball.
 
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Bottom clip is the standard that you buy at the tackle shop.

Top clip has the black slider replaced with a nylon spacer. You can find them at a good hardware store, in the drawer units that have all the special fasteners. They come in various lengths and have a through hole. The one shown gives a lot of tension. Adjust the length for increase or decrease in tension.


Below, my setup for the downrigger weight. Heavy cord (about 6 feet) on the bottom goes to the cannonball. Line from the release goes in the center eye. Top eye is for the downrigger cable. I make the swivel from big three way swivels. This type has less friction in the swivel and allows free swinging of the eye for the release line.


My cannonballs have two eyes so I can clip the dummy flasher line to the cannonball, or in some cases clip to one of the eyes of the big swivel from the heavy cord to the cannonball.

My regular use on my own gear are the Rite Angle/Scotty surestops. Have used the Rite Angle setup for a few years now. Never had any issues.
 
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