Water in the oil

The exhaust manifolds and risers are raw water cooled. It's definitely not gas getting into the oil, it's water. The motor has steam coming from the valve covers and the inside of the valve covers get full of creamy goop, the creamy goop has water dripping out of it when you wipe the goop off.
The new risers are the same height.
I haven't done a compression test as I don't have a compression tester. I will need to either buy one or borrow from one of the friendly neighbours.
I'll post a few pics of the risers etc once i resize them as they are too big for this forum.
 
I'll repeat my suggestion from earlier here. Do the other two tests, a compression test and a leak down test.
You did the coolant pressure test and said it passed... everything was good.
Borrow your neighbours compression tester and do that test.

I have a leak down tester tool I can loan you. You need a compressor for it. I could loan you one of those to if you need it.
I live in Burnaby if that works for you.

You do the compression test and the leak down test and you will determine the health of your engine. If all passes there I would say it has to be in the manifolds and/or risers somewhere.

Dave
 
Here's a close up of the middle exhaust manifold port. The front port also had moisture. I'm not sure if the water is coming from the inside the manifold or from the engine (if it's possible). It certainly looks like the moisture is pooling a bit inside the riser. Pic is upside down by the way. Where the moisture is exiting in the pic is the bottom.

riser port.JPG

Here is the pic of the engine exhaust port outlets on the two that i saw moisture.
Engine port.JPG

Here's a pic of the water test I attempted. Didn't get any moisture coming from the exhaust outlets. If there is a problem I guess it's not surprising that it doesn't leak when not heated or vibrating.
riser test.JPG
 
I'll repeat my suggestion from earlier here. Do the other two tests, a compression test and a leak down test.
You did the coolant pressure test and said it passed... everything was good.
Borrow your neighbours compression tester and do that test.

I have a leak down tester tool I can loan you. You need a compressor for it. I could loan you one of those to if you need it.
I live in Burnaby if that works for you.

You do the compression test and the leak down test and you will determine the health of your engine. If all passes there I would say it has to be in the manifolds and/or risers somewhere.

Dave
Thanks for the offer and suggestions Dave, appreciated. Unfortunately I live in Nanoose on the Island (shouldn't actually say unfortuntely lol). I guess the leakdown test is not easy as each cylinder needs to be a top dead center, is this correct. How do you do that if that's the case.
 
you can test the manifolds the same way but where the gasket goes put a piece of innertube in between to seal off the riser and then you will get some actual water pressure in there
 
I pm'd you my cell number if you're interested in giving me a call.
We can discuss a few things easier that way.

Dave
 
From the pictures there is definitely water intrusion in that cylinder. Try to rule out the risers/manifolds.
Raw water circuit should be low pressure. (If it leaks you should find it). Hook up the hose which should get 60 psi or more and cap the exhaust like mentioned above.
Was the engine winterized and plugs opened??
When you are confident the risers are good unfortunately it's tear down time.
These engines crack in the lifter galley if not winterized properly. Sometimes cracks hold pressure cold. I would also pressure test higher than 14psi. Go to 20 or 25.
 
From the pictures there is definitely water intrusion in that cylinder. Try to rule out the risers/manifolds.
Raw water circuit should be low pressure. (If it leaks you should find it). Hook up the hose which should get 60 psi or more and cap the exhaust like mentioned above.
Was the engine winterized and plugs opened??
When you are confident the risers are good unfortunately it's tear down time.
These engines crack in the lifter galley if not winterized properly. Sometimes cracks hold pressure cold. I would also pressure test higher than 14psi. Go to 20 or 25.
Engine was winterized and plugs removed. That was with the old manifolds and risers as I changed them in March.
I do have gaskets that came with the riser/manifold kit that are designed to block water from the manifold to the riser so I can use one of those for the pressure test.
 
Tested the exhaust manifold that I thought was leaking due to seeing moisture in two of the exhaust outlets. Blocked off the manifold from the riser using a blocking gasket and then hooked up the garden hose (apparently garden hose pressure is about 50-60psi). Zero leakage into the exhaust outlet.

Compression tested the cylinders - cylinder #1 - 145psi, 2. 145 3. 150 4. 120 5. 135 6. 135. 2 years ago they were tested at 190 180 180 175 175 160.
#2 cylinder was one of the ones that showed moisture at the block exhaust outlet along with #4.
 
120 psi is not good. Warped head and failing head gasket could very well be the culprit. None the less time to get investigate the cause. Once you take it all apart you will know more. Hopefully the cylinders still have their cross hatch and are ok.
If you haven't yet, check the other manifold too.
Chris
 
Took off the port side manifold and riser and found water/moisture sitting in all 3 exhaust port outlets. It looks as though it had come from the motor exhaust outlets however. The middle port, #3 cylinder, was very wet, #1 was dry and #5 looked moist (it is hard to tell sometimes). I could see no sign of water marks coming down from the exhaust manifold/riser. The gasket between the riser and manifold looked to be good. Pressure tested the manifold with garden hose pressure by using riser blocking gasket and no sign of leaks.

Here's a pic of #3 cylinder (pic is upside down). Water pooling at the outlet. Looks pretty nasty.
#3 cylinder.JPG

Pic of the port side bank from this morning
port bank.JPG

Here's the exhaust manifold port side #3
riser port.JPG

Can't see anything wrong with this joint.
riser manifold.JPG

I think it may be engine tear down time :(
 
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Yeah the 120 psi is definitely concerning. Put a few drops of oil in there and re-test the compression and see if that brings the pressure up. If it does than it's possible the rings are bad. If the pressure doesn't come up than you could have a bad intake or exhaust valve or both.
Do the leak down test and listen, look and feel for where the air is exiting. That will tell you more.
Look for bubbles in the coolant as well.
Good luck

Also, the compression numbers in general are somewhat concerning seeing how 2 years ago they were all considerably higher.
 
Yeah the 120 psi is definitely concerning. Put a few drops of oil in there and re-test the compression and see if that brings the pressure up. If it does than it's possible the rings are bad. If the pressure doesn't come up than you could have a bad intake or exhaust valve or both.
Do the leak down test and listen, look and feel for where the air is exiting. That will tell you more.
Look for bubbles in the coolant as well.
Good luck

Also, the compression numbers in general are somewhat concerning seeing how 2 years ago they were all considerably higher.
I was surprised to see the numbers lower by that much. Do you get different compression values if you take when engine is cold vs when it's warm. I'm not sure how the shop took the test 2 years ago or if it's standard procedure to test when engine is warm with all plugs out. I tested cold with some of the plugs out. Could be comparing apples and oranges.
 
Yes you should do a compression test on a warmed up engine. It allows all the parts to expand and reach normal operating conditions. Now in saying that I know that you will probably be introducing more liquid into the oil. But at this point I would say that is a moot point. You know you have a problem somewhere and you're just going to have to do the test to determine where. Besides, you will only be warming it up at idle speed for a few minutes.
After the engine is warm... yes... pull all the plugs out.
Also, make sure the throttle is in the WIDE open position. This allows for maximum air to be drawn in through the carburetor to allow the cylinder to generate the most pressure.
Allow the engine to crank at least 3 to 4 revolutions. That way you will see the compression come up and reach its peak and should hold at that maximum position.
If any cylinder is significantly lower do the oil in cylinder test to see if it improves a low cylinder.

Of course you can only do all this if the risers and manifolds are re-installed on the engine.
 
Yes I'm still thinking engine coolant. The pics look a bit green to me. Raw water would be more rusty brown.
 
Was the comp test done hot or cold, should be done on a warmed up engine, from what I have read and seen on this post, that greenish goo in exhaust port is probably a/f, you may what to taste it, if its sweet its a/f, in most of my experience as an automotive tech that after completing the usual checks and all was ok, it was off with thy heads and magna fluxed for cracks also checking for cracks behind the pushrods and real close inspection of all gasket surfaces after diassembly best of luck and keep us all posted on your findings
 
Was the comp test done hot or cold, should be done on a warmed up engine, from what I have read and seen on this post, that greenish goo in exhaust port is probably a/f, you may what to taste it, if its sweet its a/f, in most of my experience as an automotive tech that after completing the usual checks and all was ok, it was off with thy heads and magna fluxed for cracks also checking for cracks behind the pushrods and real close inspection of all gasket surfaces after diassembly best of luck and keep us all posted on your findings
engine was cold as I had the manifolds and risers off. I assume my compression will be higher on a warmed engine. On the cold engine I guess the cylinders will test lower but the compression will still show the relative differences between cylinders.
 
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