Scotty Downrigger Installation

I have never used a fuse, but I guess it would be a good idea.
do most of you have them ?

Absolutely. - Don't want the glass boat burning to the waterline while out at sea. Have seen it almost happen once with a shorted out rigger cable. Lessons like that stick with you. Smoking and burning wiring and a melting power cord and rigger plug assembly is not something you ever want to experience on a boat.
 
Last edited:
Because it would have taken me a couple of minutes to change a 30 amp fuse, I installed 30 amp auto reset circuit breakers in my downrigger positive feed wire to each downrigger, under the assumption that should I have a hangup on bottom I could power up the cannon ball, the breaker would blow, but reset within a few seconds and I could (hopefully) retrieve the weight without drifting too far away or into shallower water.
I have been hung up on a few occasions. On one occasion after putting the downrigger in auto retrieve I would hear an audible click from under the downrigger cover, the power to the downrigger was cut off and then about 5 seconds later power was restored, and the cannonball was raised to the surface. During that 5 second interval, line payed out from the spool and my boat heeled over and did a 180 degree turn (with no tiller input). By the time the circuit reset and the line again started to be retrieved I had reversed my course and was now passed the area where the hangup occurred. The cannonball came up easily.
Investigation into this incident proved to me that there was a circuit breaker under the cover that had tripped and then reset. My 30 amp circuit breakers had not come into play at all. I was forced to rethink my reasons for installing the circuit breakers. I reasoned that I would not want them in the circuit especially if they could cause a fire or damage other wiring by continually resetting. I have since replaced them with 30 amp ATC fuses.
 
Yes.

Fuses are WAY cheaper than breakers. Many Blue Sea products offer a fuse & breaker version. My custom made panel from Blue Sea is 100% breakers. I myself am convinced, but if you are a doubter ABYC standards should help you become convinced (RTFM).
 
Also keep in mind that whether you are using fuses or breakers, if they are located in the back bilge area or anywhere not in the cabin of the boat, and you have fuel lines or filters in the area, you really should use ignition safe products. Blue sea and others makes all kinds of solutions for that. Its pretty unlikely that you'll need it but if you have a regular fuse holder and it pops with gas vapors in there... Anyways you get the point. Not the place to cheap out in my opinion.
 
Would you need one to each downrigger on the positive side ?
I think you could get away with just one provided you ran only one wire to the input side of the fuse but two wires (one for each downrigger) from the output side. The disadvantage would be if you blew the fuse you would lose power to all your downriggers and it would not be immediately clear which side was causing the problem i.e. which leg of your wiring was causing the fuse to blow. I wired each one separately and used two fuses.
 
Also keep in mind that whether you are using fuses or breakers, if they are located in the back bilge area or anywhere not in the cabin of the boat, and you have fuel lines or filters in the area, you really should use ignition safe products. Blue sea and others makes all kinds of solutions for that. Its pretty unlikely that you'll need it but if you have a regular fuse holder and it pops with gas vapors in there... Anyways you get the point. Not the place to cheap out in my opinion.
I would only use an ATC type blade fuse as the fuse link is fully enclosed as compared to an ATO fuse that is open at the top. ATO is much easier to check but as you say they would be a dubious choice in certain areas including close to a venting battery.
 
My 30 amp circuit breakers had not come into play at all. I was forced to rethink my reasons for installing the circuit breakers. I reasoned that I would not want them in the circuit especially if they could cause a fire or damage other wiring by continually resetting. I have since replaced them with 30 amp ATC fuses.
Because Scotty uses a 20 amp auto resetting circuit breaker inside to protect the motor.

You guys are over thinking this, your 30 amp circuit breaker is protecting the wire from your breaker to the next breaker (20 amp inside the downrigger).

10 gauge wire 30 amp circuit breaker
8 gauge wire 40 amp circuit breaker.

Use fuses for low amp. draws under 10 amps
 
Scott, I use individual waterproof fuse holders that take the blade type fuses, the same ones in all newer cars. I have all 3 fus holders located in a rear compartment, close to both the batteries and riggers and easy to access to replace if one gets blown.
 
Just thinking, why could you not double fuse each rigger with an inline switch on the 2nd or call it the backup fuse? Keep the switch open so that only the primary fuse is active for normal use. If you blow that one you can throw the switch and get a quick 2nd chance to retrieve your gear once you get turned around and you are likely able to get off the bottom.
 
Wonder if it would be any idea to unplug the rigger's while the boat is parked ?
there would still be power to the socket end though.
 
Back
Top