Wanted Marine Electrician

Yea, this has been fantastic advice and help - I owe everyone a beer (or 5) and will make good on that in time. I too started thinking it might be the starter although I really didn't want to think I fried it myself....but might have to eat that one, once it's been checked out on Friday. Thankfully, it looks like those starters are pretty easy to replace on these old 2 strokes.
 
When hooked directly to your battery, have someone turn the key to the cranking position and check for voltage at the starter solenoid with your multimeter by placing one probe on ground, and the other on the terminals of the solenoids. What does it read? If you access the back of the ignition switch is there a voltage differential between the switch and the solenoid greater than 10%? Is there a voltage differential greater than 10% between the battery and the supply to the switch? If you run a wire directly from the battery to the small positive terminal on the solenoid, does the motor now crank? Can you turn the motor over by using the emergency pull cord? Are there any signs that rodents have been in the boat, or under the engine cowling?

If all of the fuses are good under the cowling, and you have low or no voltage, suspect the cables, harness and ignition switch. Begin by inspecting the heavy cables... Any nicks in the insulation? Bulges due to corrosion? Are the cable ends corroded, loose? Is there green dust? Is the cable hot due to resistance?

The solenoid should have an audible click when the key is turned, if you hear the click, but no action from the starter, suspect the starter, but remove the heavy gauge cables, negative and positive from the motor end, wire brush them and apply dielectric grease before jumping to conclusions.. If there is no click from the solenoid, and you have 12v+ at the solenoid... Time for a new solenoid.
 
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i might have a new one on the shelf can you take a picture of yours
Planned to take the photo today but couldn't make it to the marina. Will do tomorrow.
 
You may want to try this, with the key to the start position, check for voltage at the starter if you have 12v or better tap the starter with a small hammer you may have a flat spot in the armature and this may jar it...... just dont smack it too hard you will wreck it
 
Well, bones had a look at it today and we've come to the conclusion that it must be the starter. Plan to replace the starter and solenoid next week and hope that clears up the issue. HUGE thanks to everyone here who gave recommendations and an even bigger thanks to bones for taking the time out of his day to have a look. Best part....within 1 minute of taking the cover off the motor, he noticed that one of the spark plug wires was hanging loose - I was wondering why my gas mileage had been so bad ;).
 
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Here's an odd one for ya.
Cost of a starter locally: $562.84 + tax CAD
Cost of starter on Amazon.ca (shipped to Canadian address): $343.19 CAD
Cost of starter on Amazon.com (shipped to US address): $87 USD

WTF? Can the dollar really be that bad? I mean even with the exchange it's still only $114, add gas and a meal to and from the border and you're still at less than 1/2 the cost of Amazon.ca and 1/5 the cost locally.

Crazy!
 
It might be worth calling Brighouse Auto Electric in Richmond. Might be possible to rebuild it or get a quote on a new one. I got a starter for my 1986 Johnson there and I think it was in the $90 range....
 
It might be worth calling Brighouse Auto Electric in Richmond. Might be possible to rebuild it or get a quote on a new one. I got a starter for my 1986 Johnson there and I think it was in the $90 range....
Thanks, will give them a shout on Monday....even though I already placed the order for the Amazon one. Damn noluck - that price is insane....thanks for sending that - I would've done that instead but I wanted it sooner (getting it on Tuesday). I have no patience :). Guess even if it's not the starter, might be time to replace the ~30 year old starter (damn that makes me feel old).
 
You can do a direct check of starter by connecting it straight to battery.
  1. Remove starter and the neg lead from the engine.
  2. Connect neg to battery post.
  3. Make a short pos lead from some extra 8 ga that you probably have left over from the ACR install.
  4. Connect one end to starter.
  5. Hold the starter carefully, make sure hands are clear of the clutch/gear mechanism.
  6. Touch the remaining end of the pos lead to the battery pos post. If you have a good battery and the starter doesn't turn, it can't be anything but a starter issue.
I've done this before, ended up eliminating starter as the issue and prevented me from spending money and time on something I didn't need. Turned out to be poor connection between the battery lead and the terminal. The wire was frayed at the battery terminal and although showing correct voltage at the solenoid there was insufficient current flowing to turn over against compression. Check out all terminations carefully, more likely source of problems than damage along the wire.
 
we meter 12.6v lineside at relay to neg post and neg connection at starter
6.2 loadside at relay with key on to neg post
tried pliers post to post bypass at relay
removed 12.6v from relay went direct to starter
ah.... hit the relay to unweld it
hit the starter to unweld it
there is nothing else in the circuit to do, the only puzzle is the 6.2v loadside when starting.
 
I'm no electrician either, but I know that when I hear clicking only from the engine in a vehicle only, the battery is toast. That much I know for sure.
Or the solenoid or an iffy connection that is preventing the full battery power from reaching the solenoid.
 
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