Scotty red stopper beads

Hey Scott, pop into trotac and check out the rite angle sure stops......then go and make your own or just buy them.
http://www.riteanglefishing.com/about1-c14sl

Fool proof and nice on the hands dealing with weeds or whatever has fouled the line

GnB
x2 for the rite angle sure stops. I've been using them for 2 seasons now. Love 'em. Just buy the things. They're built locally and it would cost you more to buy all the components.
 
I honestly just buy some of that cheaper commercial twine from Trotac. I cut the length I need two loops. I attach only a sampo heavy duty swivel on bottom. I tie the braid to one of the loops using a polamar knot. I retie maybe once every 6 months just to be safe. The swivel isn't needed in my opinion. I run this setup year round.

Scott it sounds like your trigger on DR are acting up. Take them in Scotty and get them swapped out. I had trouble with one of mine not clicking over it would come up stop and then advance further. Trigger was completely hooped.
 
Rigger went to Scotty yesterday, they supplied a bunch of new parts no charge.
gone back to swivel as a stopper, which is what the guy at Scotty recommended.
He even supplied that and attached a length of Gangion.
No more sliding beads
 
Only time I use the stopper beads is for stacking. I try to use two. My usual clip placement will always be on the gangion section a few feet below the swivel which acts as a stopper (I usually don't stack)

I've still had people that should know better manage to ram the ball into the boom somehow (and it didn't break off, a miracle, clutch was adjusted nicely thankfully). Extra stoppers definitely do not hurt!!!
 
Like others, I use the beads only for temp setups as I find they slide too easily on the braid. Most often I use them as stoppers to prevent the clips from sliding upwards on the braid. As I often fish a "naked" spoon or bait over a dummy flasher, this makes sure the 2 stay far enough apart.

For my bottom stopper I use a Uni knot to connect a short lead piece to the cannonball & just add more turns to each side to make it large enough to trip the stop.

I've also used a whipping using a length of braid with enough wraps to bulk out the braid, but they can slide, so aren't much better than the stopper.
 
Same knot I use with the same experience. I might re-tie the knot every year, I might not. This year, I ran with the same gangion and knot from last year with no problem. I'll re-tie for next year for sure.

last trip of the season, last day of the season, a buddy dropped down a ball, (15#er) hit the brake to stop the descent and the ball kept going... .haha. pays to redo the knot a couple times a season I would think... prob will do it a bit more often now...
 
I don't bother with stop beads as I often like to change the depth I stack, and just can't be bothered. A thought just occurred to me though that might work. I've read that you can sheath a section of spectra with Dacron by running it through the middle of the hollow Dacron and tie a simple granny knot in it and it retains almost 100% strength in the spectra. You could slide a section of heavy Dacron 20 feet up your Downrigger line before you make your terminal connection. You could put a regular round bead over the Dacron and tie a granny knot in front and behind the bead to hold it in place. Or you could put several sections of Dacron tied into place at different depths and add the Scotty stopper beads to the Dacron sheath and that should be thick enough to hold it in place. I've never tried this, but it should work with a little experimentation. The granny knot sheathed in Dacron has tested out as the strongest knot you can tie in spectra, so that shouldn't weaken you main line. Just a thought for guys wanting to try something different. A little more hassle to set up initially, but it should be a lot more versatile once set up than some other methods. Just a thought.
 
250# green gangoin tied with Albright to braid..Re do every few trips or if my end loop looks dodgy, or when I sense a hog day lol.
Has worked well, and is cheap...but not as cheap as jigging :)
 
I experimented a little with this issue over the weekend. I tried stacking rods on one downrigger by first dropping the deep rod to 20'. Then I added two red stopper beads back to back just in front of the stop trigger. I reached down and clipped a release clip onto the braid right at the water's surface. Then I attached my second line and put the whole mess down to the desired fishing depth.

I went through a lot of gear checks, changes, and shaker removals on Monday and the beads didn't slip. They also triggered the stop every time they came up. Not sure if this helps or not, maybe it's just the braid I have or the clips I use on the releases but nothing slid at all.
 
I was blaming the beads, but it turned out to be a cracked fair lead barrel (see pic)
the barrel floats in the fairlead. if cracked or split the line will eventually catch in it and pop ! Gone.

View media item 317
 
Scotty may not like this one, but I use a metal swivel in place of a line stop... Never comes off never moves

Bret
 
If you not stacking then why not use gagnion chord and use that as a a stop than you dont need those red beads.
This is what I do also, tie my own up using tuna cord. The swivel at top acts as a stopper and you can clip right onto the tuna cord with no issues of sliding. Also real easy to grab and pull ball up. During sockeye season I made some that we're 30' long so could easily stack and get the kone zones and dummy flashers going without the hassle of using stoppers. Worked great.
 
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