View Full Version : 19' double eagle
10-27-2009, 07:07 AM
Hey guys, I just bought a 19' Double eagle hardtop, with a 302 and volvo 280 leg. The leg was rebuilt right before it was parked 8 years ago. I turned the prop by hand and it feels fine, there are no rough spots or hard turning its smooth as silk. What do I need to look at on the leg for problems? Its a power trim unit. Its also only been in salt water once about 15 years ago, fresh water all the rest of its life. I have to rebuild the motor, so next question is what kind of hp should I be looking at for the boat. It probably will see salt water once or twice a year at most. I was toying with the idea of finding a 4cyl diesel for in it. I checked the hull of the boat, and the floor and everything seems good, I will be able to check more when I pull the floor and check the fuel tank. Sorry for the long post but Im very new to boating this is my first boat. thanks
10-27-2009, 03:06 PM
Sounds like a great boat. I have had 2 302 ford inboards and found them to be fuel efficient and powerful.Not as common as a chev but way better than the 351 fords. As for the leg check the gear oil, the u-joints and gimble bearing. The leg should be removed to re-install the engine so you can align it.
10-28-2009, 04:10 AM
I have a Sangster 20' with pretty much the same set-up. My 302 has a 4bbl carb though. After running all summer I have found that it is actually fairly fuel efficient(even compared to the guide boats). Running out to the sw corner Ukee (14-17nm) cost around $70 in gas. Running no more than 3500 rpm and speeds around 20 knots (guide boats run 23-27 knots at 4000+ rpm on big Suzuki o/b, and that runs them $70-$110/trip).
Out to Thrasher from Nanaimo and back around $40 at a good clip.
I recently changed to a 25p prop and now cruise at 22+knots at 3500 rpm. Top speed around 30 knots at 4000 rpm. It will go 4200 rpm.
If you don't have electronic ignition make the switch, as well as fresh water cooling.
Other than that the Ford is easy to work on and the Volvo leg is very straight forward (unlike Mercs).
1 other thing... If your carb has been sitting for any period of time it will need a rebuild (not cheap), so you may want to look around for a back up.
Switching to diesel presents a bunch of problems. Volvo legs (bottom ends actually) are specifically geared to engine size/application so, you would have to swap and/or change the gearing in the leg's bottom end and that is a major pain in the butt. My mech won't even do that unless necessary.
If you have to rebuild the engine, I would consider converting to o/b (you would only need 150hp maybe less) power and bolting a pod on the transom (providing the transom is solid). Sell the leg to finance that project. You will have lots more room for fishing and boat will perform much better. Especially a DE hull.
I would do it to mine but, I have no issues and probably won't because 'its a Volvo'.
gl with your project.
10-28-2009, 04:33 PM
what do you mean fresh water cooling? As it is now the water comes in circulates through the motor and everything from what I can tell..>>There is no heat exchanger.
10-28-2009, 06:22 PM
Monty, I think I have the same boat as you. Mine is a mid seventies vintage 18'6" Double Eagle. Classic avocado green. It had a hard top on it originally ( I think they all did when they came out of the factory), but the guy I bought it off of was a tall guy and he drilled out the rivets that held the hard top on and had a soft top made for it that was raised to provide more headroom. Works well.
I to have the 302 (mine is a waukashaw, it still is a ford)2 barrel holley carb that is supposed to put out 188 hp. Plenty of power for the boat. It came with the 270 volvo leg, similar to the 280. I've got a 15" diameter prop you probably have a 16" diameter prop.
Mine came with fresh water cooling which means it has a heat exchanger. If you don't have a heat exchanger you have what is called raw water cooling.
Personally I wouldn't spend the extra for the diesel motor. It will take you years to recover the extra expense for the diesel, if you ever do.
As for the leg, like what was suggested already, drain the leg oil and make sure it is clear. It takes 10/30 or 10/40 motor oil about 2.5 liters. If it isn't clear you have a seal leaking somewhere. Possibly prop shaft or shift lever, two simple fixes. And check the u-joints/ bearings, change the u-joint bellows.
I would run an inboard with fresh water cooling even if it was mainly used in fresh water. Much better for an engine to have anti-freeze circulating through it than water. It's all about money, like everything. How much do you want to spend.
Good luck, you have a big learning curve ahead of you. I was in your shoes 8 years ago. You've got a great hull and power package to start with. Oh yeah, if you are going to the trouble and expense of pulling the floor to check the fuel tank I would seriously consider putting in a new fuel tank, not sure how old everything is?
10-28-2009, 08:41 PM
Mine is a waukesha motor as well rated at 215hp, 302 4barrel, was clocked around 50mph balls to the walls. Was done before gps was available, done by the fishfinder as the stock speedo taps out at 35mph. I was planning on pulling the fuel tank even though it has been replaced about 15 years ago. I pulled the carpet out and found that they had left a hatch for the fuel tank access underneath. The stringers are all rock solid, no dry rot or anything I can find. The oil is clear and tastes fine, no burning or anything else. (yes I was taught mechanics by an old farmer). I have 4 props, only one is a 16" stainless steel, the others are 15" aluminums) guess I'll have to try to find a heat exchanger.
11-02-2009, 05:22 PM
I'm not too familiar with boating gear, but I am very familiar with 302 engines, having several over the years.
In a closed cooling system I also don't know if you use antifreeze for the lube & cooling properties.
If so, Ford still recommend only using green antifreeze.
I've replaced three 302's due to failed intake manifold gaskets due to using longlife orange antifreeze which turned the gaskets to salt mush and my oil to whipped cream.
Ford knew about that problem and had a never-to-be-mentioned engine replacement warranty if the problem occurred within five years... I found out when I finally gave up on using 302's.
My 302's were all early 80's to mid 90's. I'm now running their 4 cyl as is my daughter, and the manuals stress only green.
The same could be true for marine apps...
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