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Drift jigging in open water is a fishing technique being
used by an ever increasing number of anglers as they discover
its effectiveness and ease of application.
It's a technique tailor-made for open water, fresh or salt,
where fish are oriented either to bottom structure or temperature
layers. With the aid of a depth sounder, drift jigging allows
pinpoint presentation of a spoon or jig within inches of a
fish, providing you with a distinct advantage not easily obtainable
with other fishing methods.
By using wind or current to change your boat position, in
open water drift jigging you will be prospecting different
areas until a concentration of fish is located. Then, either
by using a motor or oars to hold your position, or by motoring
back and repeating the drift, you will be able to stay over
them.
Once fish are located, free-spool the jig or spoon to the
desired depth and then begin a series of varied jigging motions
which impart erratic actions to the lure.
The jigging technique consists of raising your rod anywhere
from six inches to six feet, throwing some slack in the line
as the rod tip is lowered toward the water, pausing and then
raising the rod upward again. A two second pause is recommended
after the lure has been allowed to fall. It's best to vary
the distance of the upward rod motion with each sweep so the
spoon or jig produces the most erratic and varied actions
possible.
Strikes which come when working a jig or jigging spoon almost
always occur as the lure is falling. Hesitation in the descent
of a lure, a twitch of the line, a "tap" or any other unusual
motion or happening as the lure is falling should be immediate
reason for setting the hook.
Many times you will not be able to detect the "strike" but
will feel resistance as you begin to raise the rod. This too
signals "set the hook". An aid in detecting strikes when a
lure is falling is the use of a premium-quality high-visibility
line such as Berkley Trilene XT, which also has high knot
strength and thin diameter in relation to pound test. By carefully
watching the line as the jig or spoon is falling, you will
be able to detect slight twitches in the line as the strike
occurs.
If you have developed any strikes in a particular column
of water, change the location of your boat slightly, either
by drifting or motoring so you will constantly be covering
new water. It is important to keep moving until fish are located.
DEPTH SOUNDERS
There is no substitute for a good quality depth sounder, such
as those made by Lowrance. In drift jigging open water where
fish can be just about anywhere . . . it will take the guesswork
out of otherwise countless hours of blindly prospecting for
them. A flasher unit will pinpoint the depth at which fish
are suspended and, to the knowledgeable eye, reveal structure
and fish close to structure. A flasher unit also will enable
you to spot underwater contour changes such as ledges, dropoffs
and islands that otherwise can't be located or fished over
with any degree of consistency.
A paper chart recorder such as Lowrance's X-15 will provide
you with all of the above advantages plus give you a permanent
record that you can refer back to. You will be able to chart
specific areas, bottom contours and the like, and actually
see your lure and fish that are closeby. Schools of baitfish
(and sometimes the thermocline layer of water) which are only
momentary blips on a flasher unit can be charted.
The beauty of a depth sounder in drift jigging lies in its
ability to tell you exactly at what depth the fish are, how
many of them there are, whether they are near structure on
the bottom or suspended and, above all, it allows you to move
with them once they're found and keep your lures within inches
of them.
JIGGING LURES
Regardless of whether you're fishing salt or fresh water,
you should try to match the size of the jig or jigging spoon
as closely as you can to the prevalent baitfish in the area
as well as to your tackle. If using lightweight lures, you'll
need lighter tackle -- heavier tackle for jigs and spoons
from three to seven ounces. The desired depth also has a great
deal to do with your selection of a spoon or jig. For example,
you will need a heavier lure for fishing in 100 feet of water
than needed for fishing 20-foot depths.
THE IMPORTANCE OF COLOR
A wide variety of painted finishes and color combinations
are available on Luhr Jensen jigging spoons and jigs. Color
becomes very important related to the depth you'll be fishing,
with colors changing depending upon how deep they go. Red
filters out of the color spectrum first at about 30 feet and
yellow and chartreuse at about 60 feet with blues, greens
and darker colors the last ones to turn gray. White and/or
pearl turn gray at about 60 feet and black is always black,
regardless of depth. This means a fish in deep water will
see blacks, grays, blues and greens in terms of day-to-day
food while a shallow water fish would be tuned in to all colors.
The special glo finishes are designed specifically for deep
water jigging. They contain phosphor pigments that absorb
light on the surface and then give it off down deep. Note:
Phosphorescent finishes contain light-sensitive pigments which
can be burned and turn gray if exposed to strong, direct sunlight.
PROSPECTING OPEN WATER
Fresh and salt water gamefish all relate, in one form or another,
to either structure (bottom contours) currents or temperature
zones. Here are some tips to make your search pay off in the
shortest amount of time when coupled with the use of a depth
sounder.
TEMPERATURE / OXYGEN (Fresh Water)
In large fresh water lakes and reservoirs, the critical factor
in finding fish is the location of the preferred temperature
level, as it relates to different species, and the thermocline.
With the onset of warm spring weather, lakes stratify into
three distinct layers and remain that way until fall. The
middle layer of water, where there is a large concentration
of dissolved oxygen, baitfish and therefore predator fish
is called the thermocline and can generally be found from
10 to 80 feet down. This not only is an oxygen-rich layer
but also a temperature layer as well and fish relate to it,
both as a comfort zone and an area where their body metabolism
functions efficiently.
The peak feeding and optimum temperature for Coho and Chinook
salmon is 55° with an active range from 44° to 58°. For lake
trout, peak feeding and optimum temperature is 50° with activity
from 43° to 53°. For steelhead, optimum temperature is between
50° and 55° with activity from 40° to 75°. Brown and rainbow
trout, as well as bass, have an optimum temperature preference
between 55° and 60° with activity from 44° to 75°.
Fish rarely venture out of these preferred temperature zones,
except to catch a meal, and then will return quickly. One
thing to remember when fishing temperature layers such as
the thermocline is that they can change from day to day because
of wind and/or wave action and you'll have to relocate them
each time out.
TIDE/CURRENTS (Salt Water)
Just as knowledge of temperature layers is critical for fresh
water fishing, a knowledge of tides and currents is essential
for salt water drift jigging success. Feeding activity of
salmon and other salt water gamefish is at its maximum during
the period from one hour before, through and one hour after
a tide change. A tide cycle has two highs and two lows so
there are at least two daylight tide change periods to fish
each day which provide optimum conditions. Charting one tide
period, we would have low slack (the time of change), ebb
(run out) and back to low slack. If the tide fluctuation is
minimal between high and low, say 3 to 8 feet, fish will be
active throughout the tide cycle along rips, in eddies and
many times in open water. But the period before slack tide,
during the slack and just after will still provide you with
top angling as salmon and bottomfish will feed most actively
when they don't have to battle currents. You'll have about
three hours of prime fishing time around each tide change
and it's extremely important to fish these periods intensely.
Purchase a tide book for your area and become familiar with
it and schedule your trips, if possible, to coincide with
the change periods.
If the tides are moving fast, salt water species such as
salmon, which are ordinarily open-water feeders, will seek
shelter around structure such as points of land, underwater
islands and other areas where they won't have to battle current.
These will be the places to seek them out with your jigging
lures. Bottomfish, on the other hand aren't influenced by
the tides and always are close to rocks, pinnacles and dropoffs
so your search for these should be concentrated near structure.
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