 |
Forty years ago a derby-winning salmon
or lake trout was almost certainly a plug-caught fish.
More and more anglers today are switching to J-Plugs®
because, as in the past, plugs are known to produce
more and larger fish on a regular basis.
|
Today's J-Plug® is even better-built and more effective than
its predecessors as it's made of super-strong materials and
designed for maximum action and strength.
Another big difference is the availability of special J-Plug®
finishes designed specifically for deep water trolling and
low light conditions such as the special "Glo" patterns which
pick up surface light and give it off down deep. There is
a special J-Plug® finish available today which will fit any
fishing situation, whether you're after salmon, lake trout,
stripers, brown trout or other large game fish.
BASIC MINNOW IMAGE
J-Plugs® are fast-action, darting plugs ideally suited for
trolling. They are effective because they project a basic
minnow image in the water which all fish relate to in all
water conditions. This is a basic, wounded minnow, fast darting
action which comes from a combination of special swivel chain
rigging and lure head chamber design. The precisely engineered
tolerance between the rigging and head chamber allows the
swivel chain to shift and reposition itself within the chamber.
This constantly changes the plug's attitude and direction
in the water and creates its fish-catching, erratic, darting
action.
The swivel chain rigging also allows a direct rod to fish
connection after the strike as the plug body will slide up
the line, free of the chain and hook assembly and away from
the fish. This eliminates head-shaking leverage against the
plug body that causes many fish hooked with solid body-to-hook
plugs to break free. Because the J-Plug® is buoyant and separates
from the hook assembly, it will float to the surface where
it can be retrieved in the case of a line break or bottom
snag.
The J-Plug® is a trolling lure and can be fished successfully
with a variety of techniques. Trolling is a most effective
fishing method, particularly on big waters, as you can cover
the greatest amount of water in the shortest time allowing
you to locate concentrations of fish quickly and easily. Following
are recommended J-Plug® trolling techniques.
FLATLINE:
With the surface or flatline technique, the plug is tied directly
to 12- to 20-lb. test main line. No additional weights are
used or, at most, a small 1/8- to 1/2-oz. keel-type sinker
six feet up the line from the plug. The lure is let out behind
your moving boat 50 to 100 feet (anglers fishing for lake
trout or brown trout sometimes let out as much as 200 feet
of line as these fish can be very skittish of the boat wake)
and the troll started. This technique is effective when stripers,
lake trout, salmon or brown trout are feeding near the schools
of baitfish close to the top or when there is an obvious abundance
of other surface activity.
SHALLOW/MEDIUM:
With the addition of a standard keel sinker four to six feet
up the line from the J-Plug®, shallow to medium depths can
be trolled effectively. Sinker weights, depending on the depth
desired, for this kind of trolling usually run from 1 to 8
ounces with main line testing from 12 to 30 pounds. Note:
Always attach a swivel chain-rigged keel sinker with the single
swivel end knotted to your main line and the swivel chain
end back to the plug. As in flatlining, let out 50 to 100
feet of line behind your moving boat and begin the troll.
DIVERS:
One effective way to get a plug deep without excessive lead
weights, or if you don't have a downrigger, is with a diving
sinker such as the Deep Six®, Pink Lady® or directional Dipsy
Diver®. Standard rigging is with 4 to 6 feet of leader between
plug and diver and 20- to 30-lb. test main line to your rod.
Set the diver to diving position, or in the case of the
directional Dipsy® set both the depth and side angle desired,
let out 50 to 100 feet of line behind your moving boat (slowly
to ensure that no tangles occur) and begin the troll.
DOWNRIGGERS:
J-Plugs® often are fished off a downrigger, by themselves
(the most popular way). With a downrigger you will be able
to work all depths and will have the advantage of no weights
between you and the fish once hooked. Anglers who troll J-Plugs®
by themselves behind a downrigger often prefer 10 to 20 feet
(some as much as 40 feet) between the line release and plug.
The longer lengths add to the erratic, darting action of the
plug.
Dodgers can be used as attractors in conjunction with a
#3 J-Plug® behind a downrigger with good results. Size 0 or
Size 1 Jensen Dodgers are recommended. Be sure to allow at
least six feet of line between the dodger and downrigger line
release so as not to inhibit the dodger's action. Allow 20
to 30 inches of leader between your plug and dodger (shorter
leaders impart faster plug action and longer leaders slower
action).
LARGE PLUGS / LARGE FISH
Larger fish do prefer large plugs. Big fish will spend the
least amount of energy necessary to catch a meal . . . larger
baitfish mean less energy expended to fill up. So, if you're
after big salmon or lake trout, use the larger J-Plugs®. But,
remember that smaller fish often will not attack a large plug
so the use of larger plugs, although great for big fish, may
prevent you from catching smaller ones.
Standard J-Plugs® are popular because they are especially
effective in deep water trolling situations, although, as
indicated, they may be successfully used in medium or shallow
water as well. The J-Plug® features a basic minnow design
with a darting, erratic, free-swimming action which all fish
relate to. These plugs are easy to fish, require no tuning
and the direct hook-to-rod connection prevents fish from obtaining
leverage against the plug, resulting in more landed fish per
number of strikes. J-Plugs® also come in a variety of sizes
and finishes (rattle models are available) to fit every fishing
situation and are versatile as they can be trolled either
fast or slow, depending on the fish species you're after.
Some other features and additional tips on fishing and using
J-Plugs® include: Keep them either in the water or in your
tackle box. Extreme heat can deform a plug's shape and direct
sunlight can cause the finish to fade. Before placing your
plug in the water, check the swivel chain dacron harness for
wear and to ensure the knot is cinched tight. If the harness
need replacing you may obtain one from a dealer. The dacron
harness is 80-lb. test doubled. The hooks that come with the
harness are high quality, 4X strong and plated to resist corrosion.
J-PLUG® FINISHES / COLORS
One of the big reasons today's J-Plugs® are effective is
because of the wide variety of finishes and colors available
. . . one to fit every angling situation. Following is a rundown
on a few of the more popular finishes and what each represents
and accomplishes in the water.
METALLIC:
Highly reflective metallic finishes match the flash and colors
of baitfish. Silver, Silver Cut Plug and Silver/Blue Top feature
the reflective look of baitfish.
GLO:
J-Plugs® are offered in Glo/Blue Top Ladderback and Glo/Florescent
Green Top Ladderback finishes. These are designed specifically
for deep water trolling because they contain phosphor pigments
that give off light down deep. Note that these finishes contain
light-sensitive pigments that can be burned and which will
turn gray if exposed to strong, direct sunlight. It's best
to keep plugs painted with Glo finishes either in the water
fishing or stored away in your tackle box so overexposure
doesn't occur. For a quick and easy "glo charge" try Luhr-Jensen's
handy Power Flash unit which can double as a camera flash
attachment.
SPARKLE:
Several new sparkle extra-attractive sparkle finishes
are now available on J-Plugs®. These include Sparkle Chartreuse/Fire
Tiger, Sparkle Chartreuse/Green Tiger, Sparkle Mother-Of-Pearl
and Sparkle Fire Tiger. These highly-reflective finishes provide
additional strike-enticing action.
J-PLUG® TROLLING TIPS
• Trolling a straight line between two points is the least
successful path you can take, once fish have been located
in an area. By trolling in zig-zag patterns or in "S" curves,
you will impart regular changes in depth and speed to a trolled
plug, creating the impression of a wounded, in trouble baitfish
which fish will view as an easy meal.
• Vary your speed. While slow is the password, this does
not mean slow all the time. A lure running through the water
at a constant speed, at a constant depth and giving off the
same vibration pattern will not catch many fish . . . there's
just nothing there to indicate an easy meal is available or
that something is in trouble. Slowly, yes, but adjust your
speed every few minutes to change the lure's speed and vibration
pattern.
• Troll Slowly. Big fish will not expend any more energy
than necessary to catch a meal. Also, most lures will not
perform correctly at fast speeds. The best advice is to troll
slowly — the slower the better.
• Use a solid knot for connecting your plug to your line
or leader such as the improved clinch (see illustration on
page 2) and always use a premium quality monofilament line
such as Trilene XT which has superior knot strength, small
diameter in relation to pound test and is abrasion resistant.
• Purchase a quality depth sounder such as one of the Bottomline
units which will help in locating fish as well as prime underwater
fishing structure which can't otherwise be seen.
• Undoubtedly one of the easiest and least complicated things
you can do to improve your fishing results is to make sure
all hook points are sticky sharp. The majority of lost fish
can probably be traced to dull hooks which prevent proper
penetration into the fish's mouth. A small file, such as the
Sharp Hook File is the absolute best tool available for sharpening
fish hooks. Hold the file parallel to the hook point and,
with gently one-way strokes, remove a small amount of metal
from at least two sides of the point to obtain both a super-sharp
point and a knife-like cutting edge.
• Keep your plugs above fish as they can't easily see downward.
On sunny days fish will be deeper as their eyes are sensitive
to strong, direct sunlight.
• When trolling plugs in salt water you'll find the optimum
feeding and fish-catching times during low light periods and
from an hour before, during and an hour after a tide change.
Fish areas where birds are working on baitfish schools and
troll the clean side of rips.
• In fresh water such as in the Great Lakes, the time of
day isn't nearly as critical as the depth and the location
of the preferred temperature level for the fish species you're
seeking . . . the thermocline. Lakes stratify into three separate
layers of water in the spring and stay that way until cold
weather hits in the fall. The middle layer of water, where
there is a large concentration of dissolved oxygen, baitfish
and therefore predator fish, is called the thermocline and
can generally be found from 10 to 80 feet down.
• The peak feeding and optimum temperature for coho and Chinook
is 54° with an active range from 54° to 54° For lake trout
the peak feeding and optimum temperature is 54° with activity
from 54° to 54° Fish will rarely venture out of these zones
once stratification has taken place, except to catch a meal
and then will quickly return to it. One thing to remember
when fishing temperatures layers such as the thermocline is
that it can change from day to day in terms of depth because
of wind and/or wave action. It may be several feet deeper
or shallower one day from the next so you'll have to locate
it each and every time you go out.
Those are several of the tips and techniques which will help
you successfully fish J-Plugs® in your favorite waters and
for your favorite fish species. Remember to experiment, troll
zig-zag patterns or otherwise constantly change the plug's
action, Keep hooks sticky sharp and go prepared with a variety
of finishes and sizes . . . there's a J-Plug® for every fishing
situation.
|